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#83/2000 Project Cluster To Capable (12/1/09) 56K Beware

turbowop

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Apr 29, 2001
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The lower part of the bumper cover is held to the lower core support by little plastic push in dealies that have a threaded plastic philips head screw in them. You push them in and then thread in the screw which spreads it out, holding it in. Kind of like a concrete molly. They work like crap though. When you try to remove them they just strip out, at least in my experience. You can either try to find something at the local parts store that will work, or run a couple of self tapping screws through the urethane and into the bottom of the core support in a different spot next to the factory holes.
 
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CarRacer

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Jun 28, 2007
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Shakopee, MN
Finished some small projects today.
I made a bracket for mounting my catch can. I used the mount for the charcoal canister. I just bent a piece of flat stock to clear the firewall and drilled some holes. I'm going to stuff some steel wool in there and leave it open with a hose running under the car. Less draining as it's a small can.

I also mounted the MBC. There was an unused spot on the radiator that worked. I tilted it to make sure hood clearance wasn't an issue. Should be easily accessible.
















 

CarRacer

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Shakopee, MN
Made a manifold heat shield tonight for my Evo3 manifold. I had to notch it to clear the J pipe. Should keep the I/C pipe cool. I painted it with some "aluminum" colored high temp paint. I had to get going before I could take a finished picture.
















 

nice heat shield. you do really nice work. not trying to tell you how to weld but try small circles with the mig might lay flatter for less work grinding.
 

CarRacer

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Yeah, I try and do that most of the time. This stuff burns through really fast, so I basically "stitch" welded it. Thanks for the compliment though.
 

Polish

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Jan 10, 2005
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NE, IN
Awesome heat shield. :cool:
 

CarRacer

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Jun 28, 2007
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Shakopee, MN
Here's the radio/gauge/whatever crap I put here panel I made. It's a piece of steel with a carbon fiber veneer.













I also ran a boost leak test with a tester I made out of some spare intercooler piping and a tire valve stem. It's not the prettiest thing, but it works. The single ply couplers on the car were crap so I sourced some 4 ply couplers. Watching the couplers expand is not confidence inspiring.





I also replaced the injector plugs that utilize the wire clips to a set of the 2g style clips that Toybreaker sent me. Thanks John! I got to practice my soldering and it turned out pretty good. I put a little heat shrink on the finished joints for security and put black convoluted tubing on for aesthetics.




 
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CarRacer

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Jun 28, 2007
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Shakopee, MN
I installed a SS turbo oil drain line this weekend. My stock drain line bolts were stripped in the pan and leaked like a sieve. I sourced a mild steel bung and turbo fitting from Extreme PSI and got to work. Getting the line to work was a bitch, I went through three iterations before finding a solution that would work. I tried using a 45 and a straight fitting, but ended up using a 90 on the turbo to a straight fitting on the pan. I also snagged some heat resistant sheathing to help combat heat from the downpipe.









Speaking of downpipes, I got my CMPE 2 1/2" stainless pipe installed along with an exhaust I bought from a local member. It bolted right up with some minor tweaking of the hangers.









I also finalized the setup on my coilovers. I corner weighted the car and got the ride heights all equalized. I also got the camber setting roughed in as best as I could with the Longacre bubble gauge we have. I didnt have anyone to help me, so I used the "smart" driver as my former crew chief use to say. That equates to a pile of lead equal to my weight, about 200 pounds.









I also finished the airbox for my 3G MAS. I made it out of mild steel and painted it gray. The air filter hold the panel in place and is a serious bitch to install and remove. It isn't the greatest and will probably scratch the hell out of the body when the engine moves, but I'm slowly caring less and less about this shell.




 

G

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Feb 24, 2004
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8,896
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zompton
Slap some black door edge trim from vatozone on the edges of the airbox, no more scratches.
 

JNR

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Apr 23, 2004
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9,814
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ca
Quoting CarRacer:
....




Didn't realize how old this was...The stuff is coming along nicely and wish I could get some progress done to mine now /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

One thing I wanted to mention as a heads up...I originally mounted my MBC in a similar fashion. Just be careful, as it's real easy to flex those little stubs and 'cause a pinhole radiator leak; ask me how I know, lol. Needless to say, I mounted it somewhere else.
 

CarRacer

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Jun 28, 2007
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Shakopee, MN
I took pictures to document the fix I did to my MAS wiring. Nothing too exciting, but I'm almost ready to get #83 on the road.






 

CarRacer

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Jun 28, 2007
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Shakopee, MN
Installed the fuel pump rewire "kit" I had purchased with a walbro 255 today. It went well, getting the wire through the firewall grommet was a bitch. I ended up unbolting the wiper motor to get some clearance for a needle nose pliers. Other than that it went well. I mounted the relay on a screw for one of the supports next to the antenna. I wanted to put it behind the trunk liner, but I didn't have enough wire from the battery. The "kit" was out of a 1G, so it was a little shorter. I mounted the relay pretty high, so unless I have a full trunk I shouldn't have to worry.


I also made a front license plate bracket. The PO had screwed the plate into the bumper where the missing chrome trim piece mounts. I wanted to avoid blocking a large portion of the I/C and any of the lights in the bumper. I ended up mounting it to the bumper support on the frame using a piece of 1/2" square tubing. It bolts to the support on a 2x2" plate. It's not that stable, and it's going to flop around at speed like it has parkinsons. It's functional though and will hold the plate, so I'm satisfied.








 

belize1334

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Nov 18, 2003
Messages
3,316
Location
Bozeman, MT
Quoting CarRacer:

Old Pipes





What is the pipe diameter of that BOV pipe? What kind of flange is it? I'm looking for a short 2" or 2.5" pipe for 1G BOV.
 
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turbowop

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Apr 29, 2001
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Yakima, WA
You used the main engine harness grommet to get through the firewall? You should have used the large grommet behind the splash liner in the passenger side fenderwell. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 

CarRacer

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Shakopee, MN
I'm going to throw VRausch4 under the bus on this one.

I called and asked where to pass the wire through and he suggested the main wire harness grommet. It ended up working out well anyways, as the wire was shorter like I stated. I wanted a little slack for piece of mind.
 

CarRacer

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Jun 28, 2007
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Shakopee, MN
Thanks for the compliment.

Getting it functional and road worthy was the main goal. A nice side project to spend some time on with my father was just a side benefit.

It's hitting the road before months end and taking over DD duties if all things go well. I got plates and registration for it today. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
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turbowop

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Apr 29, 2001
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Yakima, WA
It warms my heart to hear that people are still willing to take their time and put some pride into their work, rather than just throw a bunch of sh*t together into a cobbled mess only to have it break down and blame the evil Mitsubishi gods. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

CarRacer

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Jun 28, 2007
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Location
Shakopee, MN
I forgot to post the braided fuel line I installed from the filter to the rail. I know it's not needed, but I like having the SS lines.

I also took a picture of it the other day when it had to stay outside for a week. I thought it looked interesting in the drifts.




 
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