Quoting GSTwithPSI: Why, you ask Jon? Because G constantly talks out of his ass and tries to pass it as fact. Just a typical G post.Haha, very nice. I was trying to be nice and let him back up his position as opposed to directly saying he is wrong. I'm trying to be a bit nicer about things...

Quoting G: The heat shield needs to be made from an aluminum alloy not steel. Otherwise it just turns in to a big bbq grill.Why do you say that? From my understanding of radiative heat transfer and heat shields the opposite would be true. Steel has a lower thermal conductivity and thus...

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I just wish there were more OEM style replacements. I simply want to replace the old incandescent bulbs with LEDs, but I don't need them to be zomg brighter, or have a fifteen bazillion kelvin color temp.

I'm really curious how much we sacrifice gear set longevity to compensate for poor shifting. It just makes me wonder how well a gear set would do if you have double syncros, a twin plate clutch, and THEN you used a much heavier gear oil because you don't have to increase syncro friction as...

P.S. I'm sure it's not to blame, but Earth's gravitational field does vary.

...accuracy of 3% at the low or high end? That's over a plus/minus 10 lbs possible error. Now, just because I bring it up doesn't mean I'm saying it *is* the cause, but it should be considered.Probability would indicate that you are most likely correct as far as there being a physical...

How much brake fluid is inside the ABS unit? Honestly, depending the the scales used, there could be a ton of error.

To determine if the original poster will even accomplish the goal of saving money, we have to know what equipment he has access to.OP: Do you have access to a shop press? What about a gear spilter plate?If you still want to do the rebuilding yourself, I'd highly recommend you go with...

Personally I think one of the best options out there is the Jack's gear cluster for a rebuild. It saves the hassle of shipping the entire bloody transmission, but it takes care of the hard part of doing a transmission rebuild. After rebuilding one of our transmissions myself, I think the...

Good work. I'd suggest a set of PNW-Elite 1051 low impedance injectors to break through that limitation and lay down some serious numbers!

Tach goes nuts? Like the needle swings all over the place with no relation to actual engine RPM? Sounds like a bad transistor pack to me as it drives the tach output. And if it went haywire, it's also highly likely that you would also stop getting spark.

Quoting mitsuturbo: There's absolutely no reason to pull the whole steering column.Listen to this man!! He's exactly right. First dash I pulled I did it with the steering column bolted up and the steering wheel still installed.Second time I figured out the steering column drop trick and...

Loosen/take out your reverse light sensor, and try it again.

...didn't creep when it should have.As long as you check that the wastegate actually opens, It pretty much sounds like your car is doing what it *should* be doing, which is creeping with your current setup. (BTW, You can use an air compressor turned to 15psi to check that the wastegate opens...

Just to be 100% clear, what *exactly* changed from the time you didn't have boost creep, to now.

Bypass the MBC and run a vacuum line straight from the turbo outlet elbow (assuming it has a nipple) straight to the wastegate. If you don't have that nipple, run a line straight from the intake manifold.That way you can confirm the MBC isn't in anyway the problem.Also, did you change ANY...

Tried cleaning off the anti-seize. No change. :/Next step I guess is gap the plugs way down. If no change, then I'm putting in a stock ECU, injectors, MAS. I'm also going to try and attach the intake pipe straight to the TB elbow per Mitsuturbo's suggestion. Just for good measure...

Quoting theevozero: Quoting Barnes: Supposedly this thing is amazing. Amazon.com linkclick This is better. I use one at work and insures you NEVER have an air pocket. It sucks out all the air and replaces it with coolant. It uses the vacuum you apply to the coolant system to suck coolant...

Haven't read your entire post Toybreaker, but your comments about anti-seize jumped out at me. I've *always* used nickel anti-seize on my threads, and done a VERY thorough job of covering the threads. The fact you had an actual misfire issue related to that means I'm going to try that next!

Supposedly this thing is amazing. Amazon.com link

First start, cold. I didn't press the gas pedal until a restarted the car. So before the stall, i'm not touching anything.Outside the car after it warmed up enough to keep running.The other odd thing I noticed, was that if I let the car warm up, and leave it alone for a long time, it...

Sorry. I *was* running a COP setup, now I'm running a stock coil w/plugs wires setup. Appears to be no change between the two.

...several seconds! Not just a single spark missed, long stretches of seemly no spark.I'll try to get a video to post.Config: Stock coils (*WAS* a COP setup.) 3g MAF 660 denso injectors Evo3-16g AFRP set @ 38psi Stock long block except for a cyclone intake. Walbro 255 pump Eprom...

On used ARP's, I could see measuring them. Preferrably you'd have the stud measure measurements when the ARP's were new so you could see any delta. But measuring would certainly show you if they were out of spec.As for measuring ARP's that are brand new from ARP's factory, I don't see much...

What dimension on a new ARP stud would you measure?As for stud vs screw and strength, I'm not finding much. I'm going to keep looking./Mechanical Engineer

...about it, but the stock GVR4 wing is too small to benefit from the vortex generators.By delaying the flow separation from the roof, you still reduce overall drag. Even though your wing does not gain the benefit like the configuration of the EVO MR. Granted, the drag reduction is *tiny*.

I'm making a little chemical compatibility chart, but just pulling Nitrile from Cole Parmer shows that it is considered "fair" for use with ethanol, "excellent" for leaded and unleaded gas. By Cole Parmer's definition of 'fair' I could still see it being usable. Just kinda odd to me.

...the trade off for me.So for the OP, I'd say you should consider the ride quality and performance characteristics you care about the most. Only *then* can you decided what your tire inflation will be. My personal method is to start at max cold inflation (Max MPG because I'm a hippie) and...

See my edit. Just keep in mind that the 0.5psig @ 150mph is *stagnation* pressure. I.E. The max pressure that could be generated. Since the air is in fact *not* stagnating, it's certainly less.

...you are saying is that if I take atmposheric pressure of 14.7psia (just for arguments sake, don't nit-pick the value), then add 0.5psig, I get an *effective* atmospheric pressure of 15.2psia. Is that what you are saying? So in that case running a pressure ratio of 2, I'd get 15.2psig vs...

If my math is right, a forward facing turbo gains at absolute max (stagnation) ~0.5psig @ 150mph.So you basically gain nothing. What you *do* gain is an intake that is not restrictive. But as discussed already, a correctly setup intake is not restrictive. I would think perhaps the best gain...

Who cares if it helps cooling, it certainly will help from dropping crap down behind the bumper when working on the car. God I hate it when that happens.

If it's seriously for just sitting still in the driveway, just buy a quiet, restrictive muffler that is smaller than the one installed on your car. Set it on the ground behind your car and run some all aluminum ducting from your exhaust tip to the muffler on the ground. You could just use...

You might want to re-read your post. You mixed a few things up.

If you sweat, and you know that evaporating sweat makes you cool, you basically understand AC. AC does the same exact thing, just that it uses a special fluid (freon) that can be made to evaporate in a more controlled and favorable way for A/C systems.

Noes! Gotta run dat propane refrigerant. R-134a creates too many global warmings.

Santa Fe is gotta be one of the best places to have a turbo. I remember living in Albuquerque how much faster all my DSM buddies were than all the other N/A guys.Santa Fe's elevation is ~7,260ft Albuquerque is ~5,300ft.

1)gates k040365 2)gates k040390 3)gates 9265

Three belts:1)Crank -> A/C 2)Crank -> Alternator & water pump 3)Water pump -> Power steeringThe first two belts are multi v-rib belts, the third belt is a single v-belt. The parts store *should* have these without a problem. They are the same on regular galants.

I like the way that everyone's anger is not even focused on the person that deserves it.

Ah, I see. I forgot that the VC mounting surface is machined, probably in the same step, as the cam cap mounting surface on the head. Thus it can be used as the mount so your HG surface is now using the cam centerline as the datum. Nice to know.

...method.I do have one question. It seems the way this is done, the valve cover mounting surface is considered the datum. Is that because it *is* the actual datum? Or because it has not been altered since it was made in the factory it is considered the most appropriate feature to use as a datum?

Pull 1250 microns? What kinda vacuum unit is that?

It's late for me too, but I'm 99% sure you simply have the cams timed 180 degrees off.

You just have to run a long line. No exhaust gas flows into the boost gauge. It just pressurizes the air inside it. Well, as long as it isn't leaking internally.

I could see that. Happen to my 14b, and I think it's the same mechanism. Take a picture of the flapper arm where it goes into the exhaust housing. maybe your bushing is sliding out.Reason I ask about the EGT tap was to see if you could put a nipple onto it and attach a boost gauge. Might...

Is your manifold tapped for an EGT?

Was this head off of a non-turbo talon?

...like those from Swaintech. I'd rather go with something like the blanket and shield.True. It's frustrating that this is the case. There has *got* to be a way to make those coatings last.Well, you could get a coating and a heatshield. The heatshield would then hide the flaky coating.