#613/2000 build thread... now prepping to run 10's and/or sell?

[turbohf]

fans i bought. think they are suppose to be 10", they are little over 11". hope they flow the 1730cfm they say.

radiator i ordered. its the cheaper (than an AFCO) aluminum one i found on ebay. about $135. MK1 Golf/Scirroco fitment. looks decent. has nipple for steam port if you have an LS1 lol. also has spot for fan switch.

yeah, not a chance in f*** both fans fitting. oh well. this car doesnt have AC anymore so when its 80+ i probably wont be driving it anymore. same goes with cheaping out on the radiator. BUT i will be building a shroud for the single fan.

this is the fan switch i picked. comes on at like 192-195* and has gasket with it. was $8bucks or so. i liked this one over the others i found because it has that plastic crap in the middle to hopefully protect the terminals from getting broken off if i bump it lol.


i did some more poking around and staring. lower hose will work great, oddly i need to trim 2inch off. but the upper is about 3" too short. will need to see what i can find tomorrow at parts store. fan should clear the turbo even on a shroud without issue.

 

[89Patches]

Nova looks awesome!

What brand are the rims? Seen them on a few other cars before but don't know who makes them.

 

[turbohf]

thanks. took a while to pick wheels for her. I like them. 17x7 & 17x8 zero offset. machined outer instead of the chrome ring is awesome. I have some police caps for them also, need to finish scuffing them and put them on.
they are REV 107's.

 

[car_guy]

Love that Nova!

 

[turbohf]

thank you. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif



so this is the turbohf china aluminum Scirocco/MK2/whatever radiator install.... click

 

[GSTwithPSI]

I think you're going to have issues with overheating. That shroud design isn't going to let air flow freely through the entire surface of the radiator core. You've effectively just reduced the size of the core to the diameter of the fan. All the other air that passes through the radiator (but not through the fan cutout) will hit the flat shrouding, stagnate, and do nothing to remove heat from the radiator core. I had the same issue with the Mishimoto shroud, as did EfiniX with a custom made shroud he was using. Both shrouds he and I used shared the same basic design; a flat sealed panel on the back side of the radiator housing 1 or more fans. I hate to see the work you did wasted, but I honestly think you're going to have issues.

The second issue are those crappy Ebay fans. They don't move even half of the air they are advertised to. My 13" SPAL fan is only rated at 960 CFM max. There's no way in hell that Ebay fan will move 1730 CFM. I guarentee it. The 12" Ebay fan I had was a complete turd. I swapped it out for a SPAL and saw a major improvement in airflow at idle.

Definitely not trying to hate, just provide some preemptive feedback from things I've seen and experienced. You could try and run the car as-is, and just see what happens. I'd just try and stay close to the crib on the maiden voyage in case your temps creep and and the cooling system can't bring them down. Good work on the fabrication, and I hope this works out for you.

 

[turbohf]

you know a buddy of mine said the same about my CRX with a dual fan setup similar. and i DO understand what you and him are saying. on that car i left it. and had no issues with cooling sitting or cruising. but at above 70+mph it would creep temps on the freeway. so i pulled it out and cut the shroud down to just one fan, leaving the other side open. same damn thing. and if i remember right it did it NA 2.0L and boosted 1.6L. maybe the cooling setup just sucked ass for airflow? or maybe it was a junk radiator? who knows.

one of the setups i was thinking about building would have had a flapper setup like on VW's. maybe i will do it. we will see how this does i guess.

also there is about a 10-12mm air gap between the radiator and the shroud. not sure if you realize that, or if im just reading your post wrong? i assume you know that, and you mean the shroud isnt channeling the air?


i know china sh*t isnt to be trusted to what it claims to be. thats why i was hoping to use 2 of these fans. but i failed to realize that there measurements (and probably mine) are not correct. so maybe if i redo this i will go down to a pair of 8" fans? but then im also still concerned with there surface area blocking flow, and the CFM not being there.



i like peanut butter M&M's.

 

[GSTwithPSI]

Yeah, the Mishimoto shroud had a fair amount of space between the core and the shroud as well. You're correct, these type of shrouds (flat ones) just don't channel the air. That's why the FAL units work so well, because they have really good shroud designs. That's also why the factory puller works really awesome, because it also has a boss ass shroud design.

You'll probably notice the temps creep up the most at highway speed. That's where the car is making tons of heat under a load, but the radiator won't be able to pass enough air to bring the temps down. At idle, it may or may not work. I'm betting due to that crappy ass fan, it's not going to work.

My advice would be to remove the shroud, and pick up the largest single puller fan you can fit on the radiator. I just bought a used 14" SPAL used from Ebay for under $50 bucks. Mount it with the push through zip ties and you'll be good to go. The SPAL moves more air than the stock puller did, which says a lot. Here's the setup I'm currently running: click . I have since ditched the 12" Ebay puller I had for a 13" SPAL puller. With the dual SPAL fans, the car cools better than it ever has at idle. Another good thing about the SPAL fans is they actually know how to measure them...That goes for not only the physical dimensions, but also the amount of air they will move. Derp around on Ebay and see what you can find used. Just run the part number and look up the specs like so: click

 

[turbohf]

wow, i think im getting old or just a lazy bitch. was just thinking that we did my first turbo kit in 1 night. pile of parts and an NA car to boosted pulls at like 5am... this is gonna be more solid and faster but yea...


figured a couple comparo shots would be cool.

oil line was bothering me. mainly because i need one and need to figure it out. the turbo oil drain is SUPER close to the front motor mount. like the AN fitting that was on there would hit when test fitting. thought after putting my new sh*t on i was screwed and was going to have a crazy S shaped drain, but came out nice and straight i think, glad i went with 2 90's.

no shot on the car. maybe ill remember later. but this is the drain parts. i got this hose at Napa. i have used it before on the CRX with the 14b, and the oil FP Red that just came off the Galant. seems to work great, so ill use it again.
short piece is to show the part number if anyone else wants to find it.


maybe ill try a downpipe in the next couple days... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

 

[turbohf]

ok. so i guess i only get about an hour of light when i get home now. but thats ok really, as i have a bunch of small tasks to do, rather than large ones.

i finished off the wiring on the new radiator setup yesterday. just had to swap and lengthen connectors. zip tie everything in its place. etc. i should throw the grill back in and decide on weather the radiator needs painted or not... other than paint i think its 100% squared away.


dipstick its wastegate elbow, and wastegate clamp hits power steering pump:

dipstick was easy. if you have never done one slide a 12-17mm wrench down the tube, then push/lean on it. careful not to pinch the top too much. a little bit will hold the dipstick in if there is some backpressure /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

power steering:

its oh so close, but way far away now. lol. i just went to the autoparts store in search of shorter belt. grabbed a couple, but it looks like i settled on the belt they listed...mine must be stretched, or labeled wrong, not oem. alternator belt is though.

with those huge victories i went inside and called it a night....

.... ok i was on a roll. so took a pie cut out of the dumptube and it looks like it will clear the crossmember and point right at the downpipe. works for me. didnt want it pointing at the wiring harness, or the oil filter, or sure as hell not the alternator, or the oil drain.... maybe ill wrap the oil drain in aluminum foil or something??


chop saw was out, and if im pissing off the neighbors i might as well drop a couple more cuts.

cool part about this is obviously half of it is the previous chargepipe. and this came out of my scrap bin. and it actually eliminates a 2.5" straight coupler i had in there before (going to weld the two together) and i can now use that on the turbo as it went from 2" to 2.5" /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

i will most likely be header wrapping that pipe. it got hot as sh*t before with the Red on there, and i wanted to wrap it then too.



note, order some sh*t:
4" K&N
4" 45* coupler
O2 bungs
header wrap

 

[turbohf]

couple parts. got some header wrap too, but it showed up late cuz the seller was an asshat and mislabeled the shipping they use. actually same with the O2 bungs. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif

anyway. i got to work even though i was missing my header wrap.

figured i would start with welding some stuff

still using my flux core. feel im actually good at it.

while staring at my completed master pieces, and being pissed about my header wrap i actually went and checked my mail...

super excited about this piece. sometimes its the small things.

i just have put my welder away like 3-4 times today. welded up pipes, then put away. sh*t, O2... sh*t, i need to bead the end of my pipes... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/idea.gif

did some test fitting of this giant ass K&N filter. yeah. i had to modify my upper pipe to move the bov towards the throttle body some, give it a turn, etc. i think i have barely enough room now.
no pics of that because i forgot about it after i hung it up to dry after repainting...


my list of things to do is really getting small i do think.... i think because i didnt actually make a list like i should have... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

 

[turbohf]

funny. that looks all nice and good right? it actually fit all together better on the final assembly than it did on my test fits, but thats a win i will take as it doesnt seem to ever work out like that.

K&N PN: RE-0870... if anyone is in the market for a giant ass 4" cone filter.

 

[turbohf]

sorry seems i forgot a couple updates...? so some copy/paste to get you up to speed...if anyone reads? lol


[last week?]

I took it back apart some. yeah in know. but I didn't like some sh*t. now if fits even better, and I'm happy. then final assembled some more sh*t. i assembled the oil return. put the downpipe on. think I have some hearing damage from using my impact under the car. seriously. I have a low beeping tone in my ear when I plug it. f***.
anyway. little over 3k miles on my oil plus sitting for a couple months now. so I decided now is the time to see how much of a bitch it is to get the filter off with new turbo... not bad actually. has less room than before but not too bad. helps that I don't have an oil cooler.

so I was looking down the exhaust at this point and I figured out I hate my entire exhaust system.
downpipe is garbage and hangs too low.
hate the bolted flange (I may be deaf now)
resonator sometimes hits driveshaft carrier
exhaust sometimes hits diff
muffler sits funny + needs tip... but want dual tips now.

so I want new v-banded up exhaust system build by someone who knows what they are doing and cares. nice Magnaflow resonator, would like a dual tip Magnaflow muffler but I'm not finding one in 3"?

anyone know a good legit shop in the PNW that can make me my new exhaust? obviously I'm picky about how this is going to turn out.


------

note: for christmas i need a damn jump box.


so i put some fresh coolant in her...and its leaking. i realign and tighten lower hose. continue... its leaking from other side, you know the coolant sensor i cant reach now. so i tighten that some. seems like its ok. i top her off.
i go to start, click, click, buzz... yup, just enough to turn some lights on, but not to turn over. figures. so i jump off with the truck. took some cranks? but ran with a giant ass squeak from belts or alternator (cant reach that either). runs for a couple mins till it stalls. whatever. couple drips of oil from middle of car, but it was leaking from that area to begin with. and more coolant from the sensor i can barely reach, and now everything around is hot as f***.


success!

------

[current]


so i took her out last weekend for a little drive...

coolant switch doesnt fuckin work. so i just jumpered it. seemed driving around it would stick below 200 or so. then randomly would go down to 180 or so.... yeah i know im sure its not random, just dont recall the conditions at which the temp would fall.

still pissing oil. probably good, cause i didnt actually do anything besides blow it off with some brake cleaner...

downpipe is still too low.


drove over to buddies place while out shaking her down. he wanted to see it and go for a ride. spools up to some good power damn quick. you wouldnt think a turbo this fuckin large could do something like that. guess it is a large motor also. anyway we where hitting like 12psi? or so... on a "16psi" spring, china... anyway of course would not do. cranked it up some, made a pull, cranked it some more, made a pull. was like 16psi then sputtered mildly, but stopped revs. just blowing out spark.

so we went and got some plugs. know idea how many miles i actually have on them but probably 9-12months? anyway i had to leave after throwing in some new plugs. some BR8ES if i remember right, gapped down to 19 or so. she seems fine now. didnt notice how much boost though, really havent been paying attention. but the AFR's will need some work LOL.. like 10.0's blowing some black smoke rich....


current 'finished' pic...

still more work to be done.


speaking of which...oil leak...

my attempt at keeping everything clean, first time with helicoils also. think the total count was 2.5 stripped holes. one probably was fine with enough thread, but i was fixing them so i did it anyway before i had to take it apart again. one had maybe a thread holding on (swapped in a longer bolt before) and one bolt was just sitting there for cosmetic sake it seems. now im going to say this is just from old age and abuse from previous owners, but you probably wont believe me, and i dont care. so moving on.
oh i did let her run for a bit and short drive with old cover/gasket. still have 2 leak spots? one seems to be from a bolt hole and the other from corner over the cam cap, both should be fixed with new gasket (that i do have).

good time to replace that valve cover right? well i cant ever make up my mind on, well most anything. so it showed up last minute of course.

got this off transparentdsm (thanks again). i hate the color red. so its not going on yet. but i like this cover. no cracks it seems or broken cover bolt holes. i like the Mitsubishi/DOHC/16valve. vs the DOHC/2000 DSM cover on my engine (engine in my car when i got it was out of a 91 Laser), my engine isnt even a 2000cc, its a 2.4 now.

anyway, i want to put this cover threw the parts washer at work, strip the paint, and repaint it... just not sure what color i want. im thinking gloss black?


/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif

 

[turbohf]

ok, update on this thing /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif i havent had internet for a month. do damn lazy to fight with photobucket and mobile posting...


i ever tell you i hate red?

used like a hole can of aircraft paint remover on this bastard! it spent time in the parts washer at work. then i just wire wheeled the sh*t out of it, like 3 batteries with. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

looking better...

sexy

no pic on the car as of course it was dark when i was finished and never bothered to take another pic... also installed with brand new gasket kit, Hondabond on corners over the cam caps, etc. fired it off and looked legit with no leaks!!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

then it started idle hunting and pissing me the hell off.

plugged the laptop in...umm that say 11.1v?? f***. volt meter shows 8.48v on battery... so figured that she had finally went TU.... retards at parts store charged her up, they claimed. showed 12.4v so whatever.... fires off fine, then idle hunts again! figures. and its a bitch to get to. but turns out easier with my new turbo/radiator setup. poked it with volt meter before pulling, still 11.5v or so.
took it to retard parts store, where it took like 20mins for him to test it... yeah i will keep calling them retarded.

pic sucks.

so lets count the reasons why this may of took a sh*t on me?
downpipe/turbo heats the sh*t out of it?
maybe the fact its soaked in oil?
then i soak it in brake cleaner? lol
or maybe that its some random junkyard probably 75amp (suppose to be 90amp i guess) alternator i found sitting in engine bay of DSM. it did have OEM Mitsubishi Reman tag on it though.
oh and its a bitch to get to, and to find one, and would piss me off...

so i took it apart

oh, thats probably the reason? brushes are toast. and one was kinda stuck in bore (no springyness to it)... im sure you cant see in the pic, but there is actually a diamond star on the old brushes.

mostly cleaned up and ready to go??

NOPE. back to retard parts store for test...and then the smoke came out. and as im sure you know once it comes out, it doesnt go back in... or it was just toast anyway and smoked up from parts cleaner and sh*t. whatever

bought a brand new (non-reman) unit, should be here next week or 2.


/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

 

[turbohf]

I know its so simple, yet so difficult at the same time...

brand new alternator tuned into a cluster f***. in which the amazon retailer will take no responsibility for, fucks. ad description and interchange part numbers are what I need, alternator shipped was for a different application. they made ME pay shipping back, and charged me a restock. so I'm out 60bucks for their mistake?!??!
so a big f*** you to: rareelectrical and amazon.com. (amazon has yet to do anything but 'forward my concern')

went to buddies house, dug around. ended up swiping a random used Mitsubishi alternator from his place. went and tested it at parts store. it would pass one time fail the next. was showing just on the max volts threshold. ehh, works for me.

installed, tested, everything seems good after a rip around the block and resetting my idle.


for sale, $12,500... contact me for further info.... kinda thinking I'm possibility serious...

 

[turbohf]

sorry, no updates. havent been around here... and well i have been working on my Nova. but here is some updates from like a couple weeks ago...


YES, I DO STILL OWN THIS.... it just sits there collecting pine needles...

week, or 2 ago i moved the galant to in front of the garage to look at it. once i could see it it was sorry looking. damn near growing moss. LOTS of pollen on it. sh*t is like concrete. i had been trying to drive it at least once a weekend. but its back to or still leaking oil, had been noticing some coolant missing, but it always seemed to disapear some. anyway gave her a good simple green scrub down on the outside and quick wash, missed a spot. close enough for someone that rarely washes his cars.

i jack it up. hose her down with brake clean. notice that the driveway spot seems to have moved? clean/dry off. fire her off on the jack. : and look for leaks. just a little seep at the oil drain, figured it was worse? start looking at timing cover side. f*** its dripping. oil is fresh. but notice quickly that its not oil. about the time i realize its coolant, its damn near pissing a steady drip. then i look over at oil filter housing, oh its leaking oil from there... sweet.

Galant forum said buy the AISIN its the "oem brand"... cool. same one thats on the car now. and its leaking.
Galant forum said buy a Gates belt. so i did... helped that they had part numbers posted, and i just bought the cheapest ones i could find. like 25 for belt, 36 for pump?

new water pipe oring, new gasket on cleaned up surface + hondabond (nice seal, more that it holds the gasket).
btw. little helpful tip from buddy Bryan, jack the motor up a little, and you slide the pump out through the motor mount pocket. win.

replaced bolt that was just missing out of the oil filter housing, and torqued the sh*t out of all the bolts i could see on the front of the motor.

maybe tomorrow...or next week... ill throw the timing belt on, probably have bryan check it, then drive it a couple days to see it still leaks oil, but not coolant. then it sits again... fun times.


---

i got this all back together, once the ignition module was plugged back in, and the jump box (aka jumpers on nova battery lol) it fired right off. runs mint. should, it ran before lol. once the coolant got bled the idle settled out. took it for a drive, everything seems great. battery once again stone dead this morning, bonehead move on my part with map light : stopped for gas and started fine but it did seem to mark its territory LOL. so yeah.

so sitrep:
no more coolant leak.
fresh timing belt.
fixed most the oil leak lol (still seems to be oil drain area)
with fan 100% on, and 65* outside putting around it wants to be 200-205*. so f***.
one of my pulls after getting gas i thought i felt the clutch slip, did another after and didnt notice it.
still needs tune...bad. its super rich 75-100% throttle.

needs:
expensive high cfm fan...not cheap china fan that claims cfm.
tune
brake lines
clutch
motivation.


so look for an update in 3-6months when it really needs a clutch, and motivation....

---

ok so tomorrow it is suppose to hit 80*, thats gonna suck, means i will drive the truck. not because i didnt finish, but it has AC.


anyway. so cooling... been driving this around and noticed that if i dont have the fan on it sometimes maintains its temp while moving. if its below like 65 outside.

idea is and was before i ever started it with this setup, that the fan/shroud i have sucks and is blocking airflow. then once the fan is on (at low speeds, as i believe at speed with it on it is also blocking air flow) it really doesnt have the CFM to keep up.

so i bought:

yes. a Flex-a-Lite 365... a $225 fan to put on my $120 radiator?...

it fit my replacement china aluminum radiator i bought on ebay even though it says its for a Scirroco radiator that i have? no. not really. but even looking at it that really isnt a surprise. but i made it fit champ. zip ties and foam sh*t.

now its dark. mosquito, etc.

i did whip up the wire real quick. and poked it into the car to verify it fits. and well . even after my measurements and all.... well it fits better than i expected. hell, probably better than the other one did.
also threw some fire to it. damn thing sounds like a vacuum cleaner firing off. so yeah, moves some air.

also, after some searching i might be able to fire this thing off with the ECU. see how that goes. would be nice.

---

not sure how well that last one looks. but it took some finagling to get it that good. the intake coupler actually goes slightly into the fan motor recess. its close.

phone claims its 64* outside. with the motor at 200* it took 1min 24sec to drop it to 180*. say thats good?

and after driving around it seems to channel air just fine while moving at speed. doesnt seem to cool down as fast as i would like, but doesnt heat up so ehh, ok.



wow, thats like 4 updates.... now someone buy my car so i can buy an EVOX? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

 

[GSTwithPSI]

Yeah, dude. Figured you'd have issues with that first fan setup you had. I've gone through a fair share of different fan setups myself. It's a real ass pain to find something that moves air yet still clears on some setups. That FAL setup you've got now is pimp though. I'd say if it will drop the temp to 180 you're good. But, that may change a bit when it's warmer and more humid outside. Not sure how hot it gets there in WA where you're at, but summer is coming up, so you'll probably get your answer soon enough.

 

[89Patches]

I was wondering a few days ago if you sold this. Actually surprised to hear you still have the Nova as well!
My brother ran that same rad in his Evo for a summer, well it never worked really at all. Tried a few different fan setups but never made a big enough difference. We ended up using that core as a heat exchanger for a water to air setup in an MR2.

 

[turbohf]

Quoting GSTwithPSI:
Yeah, dude. Figured you'd have issues with that first fan setup you had. I've gone through a fair share of different fan setups myself. It's a real ass pain to find something that moves air yet still clears on some setups. That FAL setup you've got now is pimp though. I'd say if it will drop the temp to 180 you're good. But, that may change a bit when it's warmer and more humid outside. Not sure how hot it gets there in WA where you're at, but summer is coming up, so you'll probably get your answer soon enough.



yeah. my CRX had issues too with a similar setup, but it had issues once i took it off too. so wasnt set that it really was an issue to have fan setup like that... one of my old setups worked great. with it like 80 outside stopped it would just hang out at like 205. but that was an OEM Civic shrouded fan, and one of those junk china fans as a pusher. just doesnt fit with any big turbos though.
it gets hot. but really i dont do well in the heat/sun, so i will probably drive my truck that has AC lol. of sweat in style in the Nova...but it would need to run first.


Quote:
I was wondering a few days ago if you sold this. Actually surprised to hear you still have the Nova as well!



nope, havent sold it. might help if i actually posted it. but i just assume no one is willing to give me what i want for it.

the Nova is a KEEPER. more than the Galant. i have wanted one forever, and until its done and someone gives me too much for it so i can buy another, i doubt its going anywhere...

new MII front suspension (power rack and pinion steering, drop spindles, etc. all new, and mostly modern setup)

aluminum LS6 (01 Z06 5.7L) motor, TH400 trans, poked in for mockup.... its going to me mostly stock, cam/springs, headers, tune. maybe boost later, probably just boost the truck...
probably pull it out this weekend and start building the motor and trans.

 

[turbohf]

bobdole hooking it up again... 8pc brake line set on order. that should be fun to replace.


you know, probably should order hood struts too. save it for next time I guess...