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#613/2000 build thread... now prepping to run 10's and/or sell?

turbohf

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 18, 2011
Messages
540
Location
Lake Stevens, WA
oh right. was just thinking, im bolting a T4 T67 on my car... you guys might want to know what motor and all i have now lol...


engine:
G4CS 2.4L block
OEM 100mm crankshaft
Eagle rods (stock length)
Wiesco pistons (86.5mm, 8.8:1cr)
1g/6bolt turbo head w/mild port
Si Valvesprings/retainers
ForcedPerformace 'FP2' 272/272 cams
Cometic Headgasket .051"
ARP Headstuds
Balance shafts removed
EGR removed/blocked off
emissions thrown away
FICV blocked off
SS braided oil line kit
94 Galant GS cam gears


turbo:
EVOIII manifold
Forced Performance "Red" turbo (ported)
OEM EVOIII turbo gaskets
OEM EVO8 manifold gasket
TiAL 38mm WG (open dump)
baller ceramic coated o2 housing
3" 1g china downpipe
turbohf 3" exhaust
Magnaflow muffler (11219)
turbohf 2.5" charge pipes
IRC/2-216 intercooler
TiAL 50mm bov
turbohf 3" intake
K&N 3" filter


fuel:
ECMLink v3
4bar MAP sensor
GM Intake Air Temp sensor
turbohf Speed Density harness *still need to make this*
PTE 1000cc injectors
Denso/Supra pump
PLX M300 wideband
Turbosmart 30/30 boost gauge
Turbosmart MBC


transmission:
1g DSM (minty)
ACT 2600
Fidanza flywheel

other:
1g radiator
group 151 battery

interior:
1g boot
turbohf custom shifter
Skunk2 10th Anniversary knob
fixed seatbelts/chime (aka unplugged)


suspension:
EVO8 suspension
Konig Traffik's



should be about it... its a copy/paste.


/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif
 

turbohf

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 18, 2011
Messages
540
Location
Lake Stevens, WA
IMG_20150213_185108_zps11bfddc1.jpg


now how do you get this sh*t off the wheels? dont say peal it off, cuz that doesnt work. i get some big pieces, but its really just fighting me. got like 20-30 mins on a wheel, and i have maybe 90% of the face done. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
 

turbohf

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 18, 2011
Messages
540
Location
Lake Stevens, WA
thats gonna take weeks, and ill have bloody nubs as fingers.
 

GSTwithPSI

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2012
Messages
3,461
Location
SoCal
I'd bet the finish on the wheels probably needs to be redone anyways, so I would just use a chemical stripper. Airplane remover will work, or there's some stuff called Jasco that works well and is typically available in your local hardware store.

Stip off the old finish and plastidip all in one swoop, and then give the wheels a fresh coat of paint. You can do the whole job for under $100 bucks.
 

turbohf

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 18, 2011
Messages
540
Location
Lake Stevens, WA
i have like 80% of the face of one of the wheels pealed. wheel finish looks great. enkei sticker is a little faded. if the other 3 are even close to the same condition i will be very happy.
 

turbohf

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 18, 2011
Messages
540
Location
Lake Stevens, WA
IMG_20150213_205918_zps043233ab.jpg
 

turbohf

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 18, 2011
Messages
540
Location
Lake Stevens, WA
im excited. im gonna throw her up on stands and start ripping everything off the car tomorrow morning. ill attack the wheels when i take a break from the hard work. have to hit up the parts store for WD40, i dont have any (i use PB Blaster to break bolts loose). also need a gear oil pump.
 

CutlassJim

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 17, 2006
Messages
1,699
Location
Manchester, NH
You should use PB or something equivalent for rusty bolts but WD-40 has so many uses you should always have a can around.
 

turbohf

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 18, 2011
Messages
540
Location
Lake Stevens, WA
ok so the WD40 works well, but still takes some work. only done 2 so far.


ok let me just say: im glad im only gonna have to do this once. what a pain in the ass its been. the rear suspension has just been fighting me. and thats with not even a single spec of rust.


IMG_20150215_134343_zps27db13a3.jpg


IMG_20150215_134348_zpsb54740a0.jpg

thats the side that fought the most.


IMG_20150215_165010_zpsefb9c32d.jpg


rear is all finished up... 3bolt out, 4WS sh*t out (annoying), 4lug out (bitch), 4bolt LSD swapped in, 5lug in, fresh brakes, coilovers in, un-ghettofied EVO8 Enkei's...


i tore into the front pretty good before giving up for the night. probably gonna bribe someone at work to swap bearings/hubs for me.... still need to pull the 4WS front rack. then put it all back together again...sh*t.


/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
 

EHmotorsports

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 25, 2012
Messages
1,278
Location
Beaverton
Reason it is a pain to take off is because it wasn't thick enough. It took me 3 min to remove plastidip from one evo wheel. Good to see progress being made! It looks like here in Oregon the weather will be nice for the week. Hope you will have similar weather to finish it up:)
 
Last edited:

turbohf

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 18, 2011
Messages
540
Location
Lake Stevens, WA
yeah, worked out really nice. wasnt too hot, not too cool (ok little chilly starting off in the AM). sun wasnt too bad (not a fan of the sun). i did get a couple sprinkles of rain on Saturday afternoon, but i would have continued till i droned.

im so excited about the progress im making. i dont care i just spent like 3K...ok hurts to say actually. but tires are scary junk, i think they have shifted belts or something? and front PS rack is pissing fluid out the left boot, and now im under it taking it out it looks like the right is starting to leak also.

i drove the EVO these wheels came off of, so i know they track well. nice new firm suspension, little more stopping power, stronger rear axles and LSD... it will all be worth it! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

coyotes

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 15, 2013
Messages
1,544
Location
Seattle, WA
Car looks real nice with the evo wheels, I am doing the 5 lug swap on my car next weekend so we will both be rocking the 8s.

How did you block the 4WS lines, at the rack?
 

turbohf

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 18, 2011
Messages
540
Location
Lake Stevens, WA
the rack is leaking. i will be replacing it with a TEL rack. i got it from a 92 AWD manual car.... so im just pulling all the lines out. also not really fun. they snake everywhere, and wrap around the hole engine bay.



sh*t, forgot i need a power steering fluid tank.
 

turbohf

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 18, 2011
Messages
540
Location
Lake Stevens, WA
its dark and cold when i get home...

IMG_20150218_180734_zpsbzlocf20.jpg


IMG_20150218_180747_zpsoawpzodk.jpg


lol, new phone doesnt like low light pics.


i did move some sh*t out back before it got completely dark though.


IMG_20150218_180824_zpsdcbvvftj.jpg


sprayed down the last 2 wheels to try to get this crap off. spent a good while on them getting them to the original finish....then didnt take any pics lol.


i hope fo have her all buttoned up saturday so i can go sunday and get an alignment (firestone lifetime?).... oh! i did have a buddy press out the old hubs/bearings and put the new ones in. seemed like it was a challenge for him as he has never done this style, good thing i didnt attempt it then LOL. but they are all setup now with fresh bearings, seals, and 5lugs /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

turbohf

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 18, 2011
Messages
540
Location
Lake Stevens, WA
ok, front went ok. did get in a little fight with the steering rack coupler. and a HUGE fight with some wheel studs. threads must have been fubar'ed from when the hubs where pulled?? or just to begin with (couple have M's stamped in them). so i antisiezed them and ran some spare random lug nuts (look like steel honda hub cap style) down all them to make sure the threads where good and that they where fully seated in the hubs. ran to the junkyard (yup, it was closer) and snagged up a few and a power steering tank that i now need a cap for. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif


IMG_20150221_174326_zpsi2nk9ikl.jpg


IMG_20150221_174220_zpsryuqqmtt.jpg



didnt take any pics of my working, i was too busy working. lol. maybe ill remember to take a couple pics tomorrow when i pull the wheel off one more time.


so i need to:
put shockproof in t-case
drain diff? fill with shockproof
need 1 axle cotter pin
2 tie rod cotter pins
gear oil pump
power steering cap
tighten axle nuts
bed in brakes
go get alignment



oh and thanks again to 'bobdole' for hooking me up with the BC coilovers and brakes! hope to get some brake lines and hood struts soon...


/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
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