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560 build thread

G

Staff member
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Feb 24, 2004
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8,896
Location
zompton
I would install an oil filter relocation kit >> click
 

clevr4

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Jan 26, 2015
Messages
216
Location
Rhoadesville, virginia
I have had a few beers tonight, but where exactly on that kit does the filter go? It would be cool to put something useful where the battery slot is. If not oil filter, then a alternator relocate
 

G

Staff member
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Feb 24, 2004
Messages
8,896
Location
zompton
It goes on the end of one of the adaptors.
 

clevr4

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 26, 2015
Messages
216
Location
Rhoadesville, virginia
Ill highly consider this. Is there rules with oil regarding flow? Could I put the relocation anywhere or is there methods to placing it, for better flow, circulation, actually filtering. Thanks
 

G

Staff member
Joined
Feb 24, 2004
Messages
8,896
Location
zompton
Don't worry about that, you're using fence post for a down pipe. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif You have more other important things to worry about. Just buy it.
 

clevr4

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Joined
Jan 26, 2015
Messages
216
Location
Rhoadesville, virginia
My fence post is of very high quality. I actually really love my setup. It needs a few things but every horse needs grass. Changing brakes this weekend. Anyone recommend any special brands or can I just pick them up from the local auto store? Going to mount the fpr next week. Work on shields of sorts for both my altenator and oil filter? Maybe get that relocator? No one knows of the sciences behind the relocation ? Pros and cons?
 

iceman69510

Turn Right Racing
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Mar 5, 2001
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10,964
Location
Michigan
No real science behind it. Relocation is usually done for convenience of service or space issues. Find an accessible location for the remote mount, not too far away that you can plumb the lines without excess length or bends. Use decent size hose like at least 1/2" (-8).

As for brakes, I tend to spend money on front pads and not just use the lowest common denominator stuff from the parts store. I used Performance Friction the last time and others have used EBC or Hawk. Again, know your usage. If it is just a street car you should buy pad material appropriately. I tend to buy higher end street stuff for my daily driver. I don't track it, but I do drive it fairly hard at times.
 

clevr4

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Joined
Jan 26, 2015
Messages
216
Location
Rhoadesville, virginia
Thanks iceman, when I cleaned up my oil leak I had the front driver wheel off inspected the brake pads they looked like they needed service soon. Nothing I thought was a red flag. Pulled into my driveway yesterday and notice there was smoke, thought it was another oil leak. But come to find out it appeared to be my rotor. So car is down again until I can get new brakes on her. Will probably change all 4 at once and rotate tires. I haven't looked in manual about our caliper setup but is the cylinder for the brake just pressure? Could I use a c clamp or do I need a turning tool to depress [if it's turning please kill me] dude at work who's brakes I did had the turning one on his 94 ford Taurus POS
 

transparentdsm

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Joined
Jul 27, 2011
Messages
3,690
Location
Cherry Hill, NJ
front are compression, rears are turn in. if the brakes were smoking then you probably have a hot spot on the rotor and those need to be resurfaced/replaced. im with iceman, i spend money on my brakes. i use stoptech slotted rotors and pads, talk to BobDole for these if you like, and i love them. i drive super aggressive at times and i live on top of a mountain so i drive passes all the time. in the rear i have stock rotors and autopart store high end pads. hope this is some help.
 

prove_it

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Joined
Jul 3, 2008
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Location
Sioux Falls, SD
If you were not driving hard and braking hard prior to the brakes smoking, then you need a caliper and/or a hose. Something caused the caliper to not release and held the pads tight. Sticking pads won't do that.

If you push the caliper back and it's tight as hell, then you need a caliper.
 

transparentdsm

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Jul 27, 2011
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Cherry Hill, NJ
very good point. if the caliper pushes in hard you can also release the bleeder valve to see if it is the hose or the caliper that will require a replacement. if caliper closes from opening the bleeder then the hose is bad.
 

clevr4

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Messages
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Rhoadesville, virginia
I mean my driveway is a 90 degree turn off a 55 mph road. So I was doing 65 prior to braking into my drive way. I'm sure doing that test won't hurt. I'm going to replace brakes anyways. There was abnormal wear on my rotor it seemed so I'll post a picture of that. Thanks
 

clevr4

Well-known member
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Jan 26, 2015
Messages
216
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Rhoadesville, virginia
Okay bought some duralast max brake pads. [Tell me how shitty they are] I like there lifetime warranty so I can replace brakes for free. I posted about smoke from hub. Would it be a bad idea to rotate the rotors? If it's a hot spot wouldn't that solve something?
 

clevr4

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Jan 26, 2015
Messages
216
Location
Rhoadesville, virginia
Cars been on my mind, any virginia owners care to offer their service and knowledge of tuning, I'll pay. I feel I read something about afr on boost. Mine reads 11.2 -10.9 other drivers have said I run rich. I'd like to get that fixed. I need to get v3 too
 

FlyingEagle

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Mar 5, 2005
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THE Ottawa
Quoting clevr4:
Okay bought some duralast max brake pads. [Tell me how shitty they are] I like there lifetime warranty so I can replace brakes for free. I posted about smoke from hub. Would it be a bad idea to rotate the rotors? If it's a hot spot wouldn't that solve something?



Rotors that change colors are now a bad idea to use because they were severely overheated. Usually it is just a noise that follows, but you may be able to get away with running them and no issues.

What are the odds that your rotors aren't warped, corroded and just giving you a reason to replace them along with the seized caliper and/or the collapsed flew hose?

Figure out what is wrong, and clean up the system. Call it a day and remove the worry.
 

clevr4

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Jan 26, 2015
Messages
216
Location
Rhoadesville, virginia
Yeah i think it's the rotor. I took off the driver side, and the front cylinder is rusted. Took a lot more effort to depress. I'll order a new one. What's the best route? Rock auto? Oem? Parts for sale thread?
 

transparentdsm

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Jul 27, 2011
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Location
Cherry Hill, NJ
you mean caliper? id go with OEM if possible, also you will need to replace the rotors at this point. if you had a sticking caliper then the rotor for sure has a hot spot and i wouldn't trust that or have them shaved.

Edit: did you open the brake bleeder on the caliper to make sure its not a collapsed line.
 
Last edited:

clevr4

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Joined
Jan 26, 2015
Messages
216
Location
Rhoadesville, virginia
Yeah i haven't tried. The car will be parked today till repaired.I was about to order caliper,but then the thought crossed my mind. If my car is 5 lug swap with 97 wheels...will I have gvr4 calipers or eclipse? It's twin piston
 

LIV4PSI

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Nov 24, 2011
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1,774
Location
O-H-I-O
Calipers are the same on a GVR4 and 92-94 AWD 1Gs. 5 lug swap doesn't affect anything
 

FlyingEagle

Staff member
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Mar 5, 2005
Messages
1,635
Location
THE Ottawa
I assume that means he just has to make sure the fitting on the side is identical to the style the GVR4 uses for the flex hose fitting, correct?

Do GVR4's use banjo or screw in fittings? I assume banjo bolt ....
 
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