Can anyone shed any information on this chip? I purchased this "good" socketed ecu with an unknown chip from John and Nate and just trying to see what i'm getting into.

It could be anything. You need to read it.

i'm going to ask a really.. REALLY noob question, how do I read it? tactrix type cable? is there a harness/adapter that plugs into the factory harness for that?

^^ You would need to get an EEPROM chip reader/burner and software, unplug the chip from the ECU and insert it into the reader, and import it to your computer, and then read what's on it. And you would have to have some idea of what information is stored where on the chip because it's not at all obvious to the untrained eye. But, by the time you've got the equipment to read what's on the chip, you could just as well burn your own chip that matches your current setup. So, given that, you're probably best off trashing the chip that's in it and getting one that's specific to your car's setup. There are basically 3 ways you can go:

1) New chip from ECMTuning for $545. Comes with cables etc and gives you full customizability. Most expensive but with lots of features and fairly easy to use.
2) Buy a chip burner or emulator (moates ostrich, etc) and get tuning software (eg, TunerPro) and use these to make your own chips. Less expensive than ECMTuning but very complicated.
3) Buy a new one-off chip from FrozenApps (ebay seller, last person doing chips as far as I'm aware) for $70 preset to your configuration. Least expensive plug-n-play option but not tunable.

I can read and program chips

I may have a spare Keydiver chip around. You might have to change your setup to match the specifics. I usually had a 3g maf/Evo injector setup called out, but that size injector is too small for many these days.

I would say ask Tektic to read yours first, then decide from there.

It comes down to this. Unless you have the same Injectors and maf as your chip was set up for, its useless to you. The chip in the picture with the little window on top is not even reflashable with modern equipment. I can read it but cant rewrite on that chip.

I can write a chip for your MAF based on factory data for that part and your injectors based on manufacture flow rate and what others have chosen for dead time. It will allow you to drive your car pretty normally and This is where most guys stop. This is when the tuning starts. Based on logs at idle, the actual dead time and fuel global of your injectors is chosen. With a fairly consistent a/f map loaded logs of Wide band readings are compared for deviation at all steps of MAF Hz. If you are going to use more than 15lbs of boost A new MAF scaler should now be chosen to extend the factory maps to allow for this. Only when your MAF is accurately set up for your specific plumbing do you insert an actual a/f map and tune for timing advance.

So based on your comments above, do you then make adjustments and reflash the chip, or do you write a new chip?

Quoting tektic:
It comes down to this. Unless you have the same Injectors and maf as your chip was set up for, its useless to you. The chip in the picture with the little window on top is not even reflashable with modern equipment. I can read it but cant rewrite on that chip.

I can write a chip for your MAF based on factory data for that part and your injectors based on manufacture flow rate and what others have chosen for dead time. It will allow you to drive your car pretty normally and This is where most guys stop. This is when the tuning starts. Based on logs at idle, the actual dead time and fuel global of your injectors is chosen. With a fairly consistent a/f map loaded logs of Wide band readings are compared for deviation at all steps of MAF Hz. If you are going to use more than 15lbs of boost A new MAF scaler should now be chosen to extend the factory maps to allow for this. Only when your MAF is accurately set up for your specific plumbing do you insert an actual a/f map and tune for timing advance.



Sir, sent you an email to your gmail.

Quoting iceman69510:
So based on your comments above, do you then make adjustments and reflash the chip, or do you write a new chip?



I really only program my own cars. I use an ostrich. I can reflash the chips I have though. The chips get beat up taking the on and off the board, even with the eorom pull tool. Otherwise you can write 100s of times to the same chip. I usually install zif sockets when I do a EPROM socket installation so I don't ruin them. But to answer your question, yes.

I am in the market to make my 1991 gvr4 ecmlink. Using a 4g63T from a RVR that was on a 2g awd talon.

Can i just grab any ECU for a gvr4 and have ECMlink socket it and buy 1g ecmlink for it?


Or can i reuse my 2g ecmlink with 2g ecu i have now?

Huh?

Quoting vr4g63tcs:
I am in the market to make my 1991 gvr4 ecmlink. Using a 4g63T from a RVR that was on a 2g awd talon.

Can i just grab any ECU for a gvr4 and have ECMlink socket it and buy 1g ecmlink for it?


Or can i reuse my 2g ecmlink with 2g ecu i have now?



Theoretically, if the engine and sensors are all 2g, you could conceivably use the 2g ECU and Link. But, the wiring harness for the ECU and the other connectors in the car will not match I don't believe.