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Re: Battery Trunk Relocation


turbowop
Hard Snarker
1051/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 970608 posted 02/17/11 05:27 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Here are a few pics of my setup that are already on my HDD.

From above:




From the side, you can see the hold down rod exiting the box and going through the trunk floor:




Rod is held in place under trunk floor by one large washer and nut on either side of the unibody rail:




Old battery terminal is turned around and held to the large fuse box cover with a custom zip-tie configuration. 2awg wire feeds the battery in the trunk and a separate 4awg wire feeds the alternator wire back to the kill switch/battery.




-Mark

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mitsuturbo
Banthony
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 970726 posted 02/18/11 12:09 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Thanks so much. This is perfect!

I'll be doing my box very similar to this, and the switch as well.
I'll have a slightly different setup under the hood, though. I'll add to this thread when i do my install. Hopefully in a couple of weeks.



92 GVR4 555/1000 11.41 @ 128.26mph
97 CBR900RR
2012 Hyundai Veloster

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SmoothCustomer
Public school educated knowitall


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 970728 posted 02/18/11 12:36 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting turbowop:

Here are a few pics of my setup that are already on my HDD.






Are you venting your battery? If you are, how are you doing this?



-Eric
2015 FR-S

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turbowop
Hard Snarker
1051/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 970761 posted 02/18/11 03:02 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
No, although the box came with some tubing that would be used as the vent. That would require drilling a hole in the box and a hole in the trunk floor to pass the tubing through to use as a vent. Since I have a sealed Optima, I didn't bother. Just having the box and kill switch satisfied any track officials looking at my setup so far.



-Mark

A face only a grocery shopper could love.
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mitsuturbo
Banthony
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 976219 posted 03/12/11 01:12 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I need to figure out how I'm going to do this, and have a kill switch that actually shuts the car off.
I was thinking maybe a dual circuit switch, with the small (secondary) circuit running to primary power on the ECU, or maybe something on the alternator.

First, i wonder how the plastic plug and 2 wires on the alternator works... does anyone know? It just brings up the field so it will charge, doesn't it? I was thinking it would be best to maybe put one of those two wires on the switch, since they don't carry charge current, right? I was hoping to get by with some 8 gauge or so, for that. I've already got 1/0 AWG to run from batt to factory terminal (junction post, actually) and a fancy schmancy battery terminal to match. I've got a 140a circuit breaker, but the posts seem kinda small. I may get something more suited for 0awg wire, if i can find it.

Any suggestions are welcome. I don't want to have to unplug the 2 prong on the alternator when i go to the track, just to pass tech as i've done before.



92 GVR4 555/1000 11.41 @ 128.26mph
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2012 Hyundai Veloster

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iceman69510 Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 976243 posted 03/12/11 09:49 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting turbowop:

That would require drilling a hole in the box and a hole in the trunk floor to pass the tubing through to use as a vent.




There are drain plug grommets in the wells at either side of the trunk compartment (more easily seen from outside than inside) that could be used to route a vent hose without needing to drill another hole.



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turbowop
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 976349 posted 03/12/11 07:43 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Yeah, those could be used as well. I wasn't trying to make it seem like drilling a hole was a bad thing. I was just pointing out that a hole needs to be made to run the vent tube through, be it through a grommet or the sheetmetal. I don't mind making holes, I just didn't see the need to with my sealed battery and no issues passing tech the way it is.



-Mark

A face only a grocery shopper could love.
1051

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iceman69510 Galant VR4.org Moderator
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 976362 posted 03/12/11 08:28 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
No sweat Mark, just mentioning an alternative. I have done this in two cars, without venting.



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turbowop
Hard Snarker
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 976385 posted 03/12/11 09:45 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
No sweat indeed.



-Mark

A face only a grocery shopper could love.
1051

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14u2nV
Resident Pedobear


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 976430 posted 03/13/11 12:18 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting mitsuturbo:

I need to figure out how I'm going to do this, and have a kill switch that actually shuts the car off.




Will a kill switch hooked inline to the fuel pump not work (with battery in trunk and a rewire, it would be right there)? I would think that would be best as it would def kill the fuel supply, but I don't know about all those type of rules.



~Kenneth Brian
"Censorship offends me" ~Author Unknown



Edited by 14u2nV (03/13/11 12:22 AM)

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Ga_Sumo
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 976474 posted 03/13/11 12:07 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
When it comes time to relocate the battery to the trunk is the little 4 fuse connector need to be moved back there with it, as in the first pics?
one of the PO's moved the Batt. to the trunk on mine but the 4 fuse connector is still in the engine bay and was frying for some reason only when the car was running of coarse...

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PreskitVR4
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 976478 posted 03/13/11 12:26 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      


im using this for power dist when i relocate



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turbowop
Hard Snarker
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 976500 posted 03/13/11 03:07 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting Ga_Sumo:

When it comes time to relocate the battery to the trunk is the little 4 fuse connector need to be moved back there with it, as in the first pics?





No.



-Mark

A face only a grocery shopper could love.
1051

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Ga_Sumo
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 976509 posted 03/13/11 05:03 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
cool, wonder why its frying tho..

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mitsuturbo
Banthony
555/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 976918 posted 03/15/11 01:17 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting 14u2nV:

Quoting mitsuturbo:

I need to figure out how I'm going to do this, and have a kill switch that actually shuts the car off.




Will a kill switch hooked inline to the fuel pump not work (with battery in trunk and a rewire, it would be right there)? I would think that would be best as it would def kill the fuel supply, but I don't know about all those type of rules.




It's SUPPOSED to kill the car immediately. The only way to do that is to cut ALL power. I just had another idea, actually.. and that's to use a 2nd circuit on a kill switch to kill the main MPI relay. That shouldn't be susceptible to voltage drop much if at all Since it's a RELAY. I just have to find the "signal" wire and run it back. I believe this would kill all ECU activity, including spark and fuel.



92 GVR4 555/1000 11.41 @ 128.26mph
97 CBR900RR
2012 Hyundai Veloster


Edited by mitsuturbo (03/15/11 01:31 PM)

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SleepinGVR4
What are we going to do today Ferb?
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Galant VR-4 org Post #: 977811 posted 03/18/11 11:56 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Just wanted to make a little comment that is relevant to this thread. I asked Curtis some questions able having sufficient grounds when relocating the battery. He said that not having enough grounds can cause a lot of weird problems. IE. gas mileage, lights dimming, idle problems, etc.

So I decided that I didn't have enough grounds and ran another ground from the battery to where the lap belt bolts to the body (didn't get a long enough length to go all the way to back up to the engine bay). I plan on running another ground from lab belt bolt to the engine bay.

But just adding this one extra ground gave me almost 100 extra miles to a tank of gas. I was only getting 200 miles to a tank, and that will put a dent in your wallet when you daily drive your car. But yesterday I did some highway driving and in town driving and got 285 miles to a tank. With another ground, over 300 miles to a tank is definitely possible.

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mitsuturbo
Banthony
555/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 977952 posted 03/19/11 01:54 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
I've just ordered an extra 17ft of 1/0 Gauge wire for my ground. I plan to ground this wire about every 2 ft until one of the engine/tranny bolts. I've now 34 feet of 1/0 Gauge wire. 17ft blue and 17ft black. I'll be sure and document my install for others. My battery setup has cost me about $500 so far (including optima yellow top). I'm hoping it will look damn good and work out well.



92 GVR4 555/1000 11.41 @ 128.26mph
97 CBR900RR
2012 Hyundai Veloster

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