Battery relocation pictures

[BoostedAWD91]

Lets see some pictures of your battery setups in the trunk. Looking for some good ideas on mounting the battery in the trunk. All the battery relocation threads don't really have any pictures of anyones setups.

 

[NateCrisman]

Battery relocated to sit on top of the steering rack subframe in the spot previously occupied by charcoal canister emissions stuff. Figuring the smaller battery, no 40 feet of additional heavy wires this setup is a good 35lb lighter than a trunk mounted setup. With the battery cable going to the starter being so short, a 350cranking amp lawnmower battery is plenty strong enough.

There are also no NHRA issues to deal with by keeping the battery up front, where as a trunk mounted setup requires a cutoff switch (that nearly no-one does correctly either...the alternator is supposed to be cut off by that switch as well; that doubles your length of heavy wire)

 

I like that setup Nate but I think my crusie control would get in the way. I have it flipped because of my sweeping UIC pipe.

Another thing you didn't mention is not only are you saving weight but you have moved it more toward the center of the vehicle and lower which in theory should help the car handle, if not noticeable, a bit better.

 

[BoostedAWD91]

I like that idea but with my catch can is gonna prevent me from doing that

 

IMO. If your not dragging, the trunks a much cleaner look. My whole relocation kit only wieghed ruffly 12lbs.'s. Also, if your are track racing, to me, it would even up the weight of the driver if you mounted it on the passenger side in the trunk. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

 

[BoostedAWD91]

pics??

 

[NateCrisman]

Quoting Dbossman:
IMO. If your not dragging, the trunks a much cleaner look. My whole relocation kit only wieghed ruffly 12lbs.'s. Also, if your are track racing, to me, it would even up the weight of the driver if you mounted it on the passenger side in the trunk. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif




Plus a 30+lb battery in the trunk. Under hood you can get away with a tiny/light battery due to short wires, but a trunk mounted battery really needs to be stock size or larger due to the wire resistance.

But yes, for weight distribution for a road race car, it's possible a trunk mounted battery is actually better overall even if it adds some weight.

For a street car that doesn't race at all, I would still go with my way because it's very cheap. $23 lawnmower battery at walmart and $5 of brackets at hardware store.

 

Nate,
Thats definitely more cost effective. I also agree with the weight diference also, but me personally, I like the trunk look. I guess it would be an opinion thing at that point.
I'm definitely interested in this " kill switch if your batteries in the trunk" thing. Mines relocated in the trunk, but I still would like to make a couple passes this summer without conflict. I can't think of a more qualified person to school me on this track rule stuff.

 

[JSchleim18]

I'll butt in but Nate or anyone else is free to correct me whenever.

In order to make passes the legal and right way, you'll need a kill switch that kills BOTH the BATTERY and the ALTERNATOR.

I picked up a Taylor 4 post terminal cut-off switch. From the battery in the trunk, you'll need one 4 AWG feed for the alternator going to the kill switch and from there, run the wire to the front of the car. Then, I have a 100A circuit breaker for the alternator. One side gets the 4 AWG Wire and the other side of the circuit breaker gets the 2 white wires that share the same terminal leading to the alternator.

For the main battery wire, I have 1 AWG wire running from the battery to another post on the cut-off switch. Then from the final post of the cut-off switch, I have the 1 AWG wire running to a 120A circuit breaker. One side gets the wire from the cut-off switch and the other side gets 1 AWG wire that runs from cut-off switch to the engine bay of the car. From there, since I deleted the Main fusible link, I have a distribution block that will have the main 1 AWG wire feed. Then it will be split into IIRC 3 wires. One is the big gauge wire red/black wire that runs from the starter. Then there's a black/white wire and another wire that I forget right now but I hope you get the idea.

 

[DR1665]

Wouldn't a trunk-mounted battery be ideal in terms of fuel pump rewire? Or would the reduced performance from the distance between the battery and alternator offset any benefits? And are we really just splitting hairs, here?

 

[JSchleim18]

I did it for the fact of offsetting the driver weight by putting the battery in the rear pass side.

 

[NateCrisman]

Quoting JSchleim18:
I'll butt in but Nate or anyone else is free to correct me whenever.

In order to make passes the legal and right way, you'll need a kill switch that kills BOTH the BATTERY and the ALTERNATOR.

I picked up a Taylor 4 post terminal cut-off switch. From the battery in the trunk, you'll need one 4 AWG feed for the alternator going to the kill switch and from there, run the wire to the front of the car. Then, I have a 100A circuit breaker for the alternator. One side gets the 4 AWG Wire and the other side of the circuit breaker gets the 2 white wires that share the same terminal leading to the alternator.

For the main battery wire, I have 1 AWG wire running from the battery to another post on the cut-off switch. Then from the final post of the cut-off switch, I have the 1 AWG wire running to a 120A circuit breaker. One side gets the wire from the cut-off switch and the other side gets 1 AWG wire that runs from cut-off switch to the engine bay of the car. From there, since I deleted the Main fusible link, I have a distribution block that will have the main 1 AWG wire feed. Then it will be split into IIRC 3 wires. One is the big gauge wire red/black wire that runs from the starter. Then there's a black/white wire and another wire that I forget right now but I hope you get the idea.



Im pretty sure your correct. The cut-off switch in the rear of the car is there so that in the event of a crash, a track worker can flip the switch and cut off all battery power and alternator power to everything. IE stop your fuel pump and stop any electrical shorts that could cause a fire. If the car is running...flipping that switch should shut EVERYTHING off instantly. If your alternator is still wired to the junction terminal up under the hood, then when the track worker throws the switch with the engine running, it cuts off the battery but everything still continues to run off the alternator power. Tech inspection will sometimes flip the switch to see if the engine shuts off, and if it stays running, you don't get to run.

 

[MitchooO]

Just to thread jack a bit...but still kinds on topic... how do you go about the cutoff switch on a mitsubishi, All the guys I know just mess with carb mustangs and chevys. so I've never seen a cutoff switch wired properly on a fuel injected car.

 

[BoostedAWD91]

Lets see some pictures of your setups guys

 

[turbowop]

Quoting MitchooO:
Just to thread jack a bit...but still kinds on topic... how do you go about the cutoff switch on a mitsubishi, All the guys I know just mess with carb mustangs and chevys. so I've never seen a cutoff switch wired properly on a fuel injected car.



Just kill the power to the alternator. Mine is wired up correctly with the battery in the trunk and the kill switch sticking out the passenger side tail light. I think I've posted some pretty good pics of my setup in past threads. If you can't find them doing a search under my username, then I'll post some m0ar.

 

[TurboTrader]

I also relocated mine to the cross member after providing a more direct route for the air intake/turbo inlet/MAF which now sits in the stock battery location. After having done so, I wouldn't dream of putting it in the trunk. I did so mainly since I do plan to drag at some point in time, and didn't want to deal with the hassle, weight and have a cut off switch mounted externally for people to mess with, and I have a car alarm with ignition kill, so that would defeat the purpose entirely of having an alarm.

I had to construct a tray for the odd sized battery I used. It is slightly taller than stock, but much skinnier and not quite as long. It provides all the CCA's I could ever need, even with a Sub/Amp, the Alt keeps it charged well. The tie-down is not pictured as I had to use a J-hook rod on the left side, the right side I have a threaded rod going straight through the member and bolted on each side.