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Re: 642 rebuild


Lonewolf64
Obviously the answer is......
889/1000
1247/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 836826 posted 10/05/09 07:41 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
I would check your MPI relay.



1992 Galant VR-4 #889
1991 Galant VR-4 #1247
2007 Civic Si DD

Posts: 1197 | From: Birmingham, Alabama | Member Since: 05/18/06 | IP: (141.166.236.76) | Report this post to a Moderator

blue642
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 836839 posted 10/05/09 08:26 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Thats what I was suspecting, but I wasn't sure where it was without having the service manual. Just checked the service manual and I don't recall seeing it by the ECM yesterday, though I do remember an unattached 8-pin connector. Probably attached to the dash, or on my table of interior parts.

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blue642
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 837298 posted 10/06/09 07:10 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
SHE RUNS!!!

So the MFI relay was still attached to the glovebox bracket sitting in my garage Once in I jumped it and after quite a bit of cranking I finally got it to turn over. Once it warmed up, it idled on its own. Still have quite a few things to sort out before its driveable, but I'm beyond happy that I've made it to this step.

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Chad989of2000
blows both ways and is skilled in magic with any mention of diarrhea
989/2000
141/1000
866/1000
1114/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 837345 posted 10/06/09 10:06 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Great work man...looks like it's really coming together, now for the devil in the details work.



Chadwick Atkinson (auto obsessive garage)
-'91 GVR-4 1114/2000
-'92 GVR-4 886/1000
-'91 GVR-4 989/2000
-'92 GVR-4 141/1000 [Sold]
-'91 Stealth R/T TT [Sold]
-'93 NX2000
-'89 Taurus SHO [Sold]
-'99 Land Cruiser Overland Build
-'93 NSX [Sold]


Posts: 1790 | From: Livermore, CA | Member Since: 01/13/05 | IP: (130.76.96.17) | Report this post to a Moderator

Lonewolf64
Obviously the answer is......
889/1000
1247/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 837352 posted 10/06/09 10:27 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting blue642:

Thats what I was suspecting, but I wasn't sure where it was without having the service manual. Just checked the service manual and I don't recall seeing it by the ECM yesterday, though I do remember an unattached 8-pin connector. Probably attached to the dash, or on my table of interior parts.




Glad to hear it was such a simple problem! Congratulations on your progress. Just keep your patience and steady hand and your car will be boosting in no time.



1992 Galant VR-4 #889
1991 Galant VR-4 #1247
2007 Civic Si DD

Posts: 1197 | From: Birmingham, Alabama | Member Since: 05/18/06 | IP: (141.166.236.76) | Report this post to a Moderator

blue642
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 837357 posted 10/06/09 10:45 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Me too. Thanks for all the encouragement and input. Between that and seeing it progress, it really helps stay motivated. Especially now that the weathers going down hill and making it rather unpleasant to work on.

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blue642
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 844172 posted 10/27/09 09:27 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
So I realize I haven’t updated in a while. Weather has been on and off the last few weeks so progress has been limited. That and lots of other car troubles. VW rear wheel bearing self destructed and rear brakes on my sisters Chrysler which I did in June have apparently been hanging up on the one side and ate through a set of pads and into the rotor. That which I have gotten done has been mostly troubleshooting. AFC wasn’t working (came unplugged from the board inside) and I kept blowing fuse 9 (wire grounding out in engine bay harness) which consumed most of the time.

After I got them figured out I set the base idle (1100-1300rpm surging though it doesn’t surge when the pin is grounded out and occasionally wants to stall when I go lower), adjusted shift linkage, ran wiring for boost and A/F gauges in pod (still need to run EGT which will be in center counsel)

Still have to figure out why the blower isn’t working and radiator fan. Thinking the radiator fan is the resistor pack. I have a spare and am going to wire it in today. Blower is probably a plug that I missed.

I’m going to finish wiring up my gauges in the pod today (was waiting for the paint to dry yesterday) and see if I can get the radiator fan and blower working. I’m going to finish installing the interior too if things go smooth. I know that I am well overdue for pics as I haven’t posted any of the final setup so they’ll be some tomorrow.

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chucklesas
Hogna Carolinensis


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 844174 posted 10/27/09 09:47 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Sounds like my idle issues. Good luck with figuring that part out.
The radiator fan has 2 sensors that can turn it on. The fan gets its low speed signal from the temperature switch on the radiator itself. The high speed gets turned on via the temp switch on the back of the thermostat housing. There are also 2 relays that feed the radiator fan. The wiring on those get brittle and break off, then get switched around and confused when trying to put them back together.



Charles S
363 burn victim, SOLD to be parted out1180 SOLD
720 SOLD

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blue642
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 844187 posted 10/27/09 10:42 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Yeah. I've got a 1g neck with the pressure cap on it since I'm running a scirocco radiator. I replaced the switch that mounts to the radiator/neck yesterday to no avail. I check the wiring when I had the harness out and everything looked in order. I have a few spare relays so I might try switch them out if the resistor pack doesn't do it. If all else fails, I have a stand alone flex-a-lite unit with temp switch and optional manual override as well as adjustable fan speed which I might use and just eliminate all the factory wiring.

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chucklesas
Hogna Carolinensis


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 844224 posted 10/27/09 01:20 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
You could at least eliminate the resistor by jumpering over it (just tie the two wires going to it together) if you think that's the problem. To eliminate the switch being the problem just ground the wire going to it. That should help you in your trouble shooting. If it doesn't come on I'd suspect the relays.



Charles S
363 burn victim, SOLD to be parted out1180 SOLD
720 SOLD

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blue642
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 844254 posted 10/27/09 02:34 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Thanks. I'll try both of those before I go switching things out.

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blue642
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 844453 posted 10/28/09 06:59 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Didn't get very far before it started raining last night. Jumped the switch and they didn't turn on so I jumped the resistor pack and still nothing. Pulled the relays to check the sockets. Both have constant and the one had switch (second had switch after it got up to temp). Had three relays to try, all three appear to be functioning in other sockets, so they're not the issue. I jumped the fan and it works, so the problem is between the fuse block and the radiator fan. Started raining so thats all the further I got on that project. Also got both of my gauges mounted in the a pillar pod.

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blue642
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 845619 posted 11/02/09 07:58 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
First drive and first major problem made this was a great weekend and a horrible weekend all rolled into one.

Friday- Had off work and one of my good friends came over and helped me finish up the rear brakes, installed the fenders, trim the headlight brackets to clear the intercooler piping, and several other loose ends and then he asked me to be his best man for his wedding. Sweet.

Saturday- Bled the brake system and double checked all the fluids and took her for the first drive since everything went back together. She ran a rich, but ran like a champ until she stalled at a light. Had to bump start to get her running again, but then she ran fine all the way home with no issues for the rest of the evening. I turned it on and off half a dozen times while sorting through some tuning issues, but everything appeared to be sorting out. Lowered the fuel pressure to 36psi base and that appeared to help with the rich situation. Reinstalled the center counsel and called it a night.

Sunday- Came out to take it for another drive and she wouldn’t turn over. Checked everything and couldn’t find anything wrong. Looked in AFC and it had forgotten everything. Reset the sensor and car type and it wouldn’t remember it. After repeating half a dozen times it finally took. Eventually got it to turn over and she ran fine. Got it up to operating temp to tune and made some adjustments. Turned it off and tried to turn back on and it wouldn’t crank over. Swapped plugs and tried again… nothing. It didn’t sound like I was getting any spark this time. By this point it was dark and I was fed up so I called it a night.

Any ideas as to what might have cause it to suddenly stop running overnight, literally?

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Hertz Galant VR4.org Administrator
OneTitle to rule them all.
77/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 845792 posted 11/02/09 04:32 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Bad alternator and dead battery?

ECU Capacitors?

Clogged fuel filter?

Bad CAS?

It's not clear to me... is it cranking and just not firing?



Ryan Hertz

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blue642
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 845926 posted 11/03/09 05:39 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Correct, cranking but not firing. First couple times it sparked but just wouldn't turn over. now it won't even spark, just cranks.
-Its getting fuel. Checked both pressure at rail while cranking and pulled plugs after cranking to make sure the injectors where firing so its not fuel (atleast not a lack of). Plugs were pretty wet after 10 seconds of cranking making me think it might be flooding.
-CAS has be reading to get fuel, correct? Also, the RPM gauge flutters while cranking indicating its getting some signal.
-Checked battery and its fine. It didn't seem to make a difference when I tried to jump it either.
-Alternator shouldn't have any effect until its running should it? Battery had a full charge after I shut it off last time and the headlights were bright while it was running so I doubt it, though its voltage is on the high side while running (14.8-15).
-ECU caps were checked when I was rebuilding everything. The board had been replaced with a non-EPROM unit and it already had new caps soldered in (though I didn't check the part numbers to make sure they were the right ones).

I replaced the no name plug wires with NGKs and closed the gap on the plugs to .028 (from .031-.032, BPR7ES) to see if helped. Nothing. It was raining so I didn't have the chance to troubleshoot any more. I don't have a logger yet, so I haven't gotten the chance to check some of the other common issues (temp sensor, ect.). Got the parental units trying to find the sisters old palm pilot at there house so hopefully I'll have one by the weekend.

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dsmless
gay without homosexual tendencies
96/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 846585 posted 11/04/09 08:45 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
that sounds like the prolem I ran into, change the cas sensor, it should fire right up and then adjust the timing, I had the same problem , fuel, but no spark, its the cam angle sensor, if you have a spare one throw it on or you can probly swap it out to make sure is that



96/1000 back in the driveway jsb getting a
lego motor

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blue642
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 846706 posted 11/05/09 06:38 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Unfortunityly I am getting spark. I've gotten it to start once on sunday and finally again last night since the issue started, and it ran fine once it gets running, but it doesn't want to turn over. My room mate (i/e bum) has a laser and no license so I may steal his and try it anyways. Nothing to loose really.

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blue642
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 848101 posted 11/09/09 08:32 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
So I finally sorted through some ofthe issues and got it running. Still having issues with hot starts, but seems to be consistantly cold starting. Issue ended up being a combinationof little things. MAS signal was because the pin got desocketed inside the AFC, temp wiring ended up being fine, base timing was at TDC, ect. Got all of it adjusted and been driving it for the last couple days. Set the tune for WOT a little rich and finally let it open Going to get the EGT installed so that I can get it tuned in closer, but definitely the fastest car I've driven, and oh so smooth. Only issue is that its hard to stay out of the boost. Comes in low with relitively light throttle and I can't say that I mind.

Here's a link to the troubleshooting thread that I had going.click

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blue642
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 882718 posted 03/17/10 11:33 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
So... I relized that I never posted finished pics from once everything went in. Its still not running right all the time (start issues). Made a couple changes; GM MAF w/ MAF-T, swapped valve covers (kept scratching the flat black paint), FAL fan controller, and a few other odds and ends. Strut bar isn't in because it just gets in the way while troubleshooting, and the random wire hanging over the engine mount is for EGT which hasn't been installed yet. Going to swap GM MAF for a 2G unit once I make up a wiring adapter. Alternator bearings are going too, so might just do a double and make a relocation bracket for a Saturn/Subaru alternator in the AC location. Going to get rid of the front battery terminal wires and relocate to d-blocks mounted on firewall/behind shock tower.




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blue642
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1015515 posted 09/02/11 04:55 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
So I'm going to revive this thread. Shortly after I posted those finish pics a year ago the turbo(which was on its last leg due to shaft play) blew its seals and and left everything nice and oily. Was still have starting issues as well and its been sitting since...until earlier this week. Finally getting some time to work on it and have gathered parts.

Did a compression test and got 65-40-110-80 Pulled turbo and head on tuesday. Head gasket and cylinder walls looked fine. Valves/seats on the other hand don't look so hot. Whoever had rebuilt that head (PO) did a shitty job. Half the valves didn't appear to even be lapped and a couple appeared bent (pre lap based off of the wear) and you could see light coming through around the edges on a couple when fully seated. Neither pistons or valves showed signs of contact, so guessing it must have happened pre assy or during a timing. Can't believe it ran as well as it did in that condition.
Had a lot of oil in the intake from the turbo. I'll be making sure all the piping and intercooler is thuroughly flushed and clean before it goes back on.

Next is sorting out the slow cranking. Even with the plugs pulled it cranked rediculously slow which I believe is one of the main starting issues. Got to borrow a dial torque wrench from work next week to measure bottom end rotating torque. Also going to double check flywheel teeth count incase they found some random flywheel that fit with a higher teeth count that just so happens to meshed up with our starter (not holding my breath, but nothing would suprise me at this point).
Reassembly after that. Trying to decide if I'm going to attempt to salvage the head, or just get a new one and do a rebuild on it. Leaning towards the latter of the 2. Got an Evo3 16G to replace the retired small 16G. Also got a aeromotive FPR to sort out the wandering fuel pressure issue.

Hopefully they'll be steady progress over the next couple months. Wish me luck

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blue642
Newbie


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 1249350 posted 07/16/20 04:35 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
Reviving the dead. It's been a while since I've been gone. I can't believe the Galant's been sitting lifeless in my driveway for 9 years

So going back to where this left off, when I pulled the head and discovered the valve seat issues that started down a very bad road for the car. I was going to take it down to our local machine shop which is pretty well known to have the valve redone. When I did the tear down, I found that not only had whoever had rebuilt the head had not lapped the valves, they hadn't cleaned out the oiling holes either. The cams and cam journals were completely destroyed leaving the head totally trashed. It also called into question the the condition of the bottom end as I wasn't sure how much of that debris could have made it into the bottom end. I had a spare 6-bolt short block that needed a rebuild, but replacement heads weren't so cheap, especially without a core. Luckily this all happened before I thrown on my brand new turbo.

At this point I started totaling the cost and knowing how much more I had to put in to 'maybe' get it running caused me to put it on hold. The other big factor was how bad of shape the chassis was in. I never really addressed it on here before, but the chassis had pretty bad cancer on the floorboards/frame rails/body/everywhere. I was aware of this when I got it. I tried to keep most of the valuable goods to thing that could transfer over, but I was loosing interest for all the work which seemingly was going to have a short payout before I'd have to transfer it to a new chassis and potentially restart the troubleshooting again. I wasn't ready to part ways with it just yet, but was still somewhat optimistic that I'd get the itch to finish it eventually.

Fast forward 9 years and its become a reminder of my lack of follow through and a rather big eyesore. Every time I move it the rust outline it leaves gets bigger. This last time, I had to jack it up to break each of the wheels loose before I could move it. I had to re-raise it multiple time on each side since the 3 foot long 2x4 that I'd placed between the jack and frame rail kept sinking in further and further. It's time for it to go. Going to pull off some of the more valuable goodies to sell and then its off the the scrap yard. Another VR-4 gone. Hopefully I'll have some stuff posted for sale shortly so that another can live on a bit longer.

On the positive, it'll be making room for my wife's 55' Chevy which she'll hopefully be inheriting early. It needs a little work, but her brothers got it up and running, just needs a little sorting to make it what we want.

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