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valve cover baffle


jdjxr
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 937167 posted 10/06/10 12:14 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Has anyone removed the plate that is rivetted to the bottom of the vc? Some of my rivets came undone and they look too small to rerivet them. And welding it would discolor my powdercoat. Maybe JB weld? Thanks for the help.

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Street Surgeon
Professor Street Surgeon
501/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 937172 posted 10/06/10 12:28 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Typically when having a valvecover re-worked, most end up removing the baffle (to avoid getting the blasting media caught up there / spinning a rod bearing, as well as to clean out the massive amounts of crap that get caught up there), have it welded back into place, and then the last step is the powdercoating. Tough call but if I were you I'd just start over.



Cory O.
'92 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 501/1000
Heavily modified, barely driven, some assembly required.

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SouthCaliVR4
Gas Analyzer
825/2000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 937186 posted 10/06/10 01:24 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Take it out clean behind it, leave it out. Install a catch can.



How do you make a small fortune racing? Start with a very large one!!!

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JNR
5 star (English Professor) member Has extensive pop up picture book collection
20/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 937190 posted 10/06/10 01:31 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
You could probably tap the existing holes in the cover and use a screw, but be sure to use good locking compound and even then I'd be nervous about them evenutally loosening and falling into the valley and doing who knows what...I personally wouldn't use JB weld on something like that (I do use it from time to time and do like it), but that's just me.

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TylerAdamson
circles method
934/1000


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 937210 posted 10/06/10 02:18 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting SouthCaliVR4:

Take it out clean behind it, leave it out. Install a catch can.




In my opinion this is the best alternative.



1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD FP3565 Powered
1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR4 934/1000

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GreenGSX
One Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 937223 posted 10/06/10 02:41 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Quoting jdjxr:

Has anyone removed the plate that is rivetted to the bottom of the vc? Some of my rivets came undone and they look too small to rerivet them. And welding it would discolor my powdercoat. Maybe JB weld? Thanks for the help.




I did a write up of the One Lap catch can and the modifications I did to the valve cover. I am sure it's on here but you can also take a look at our site. click

I found welding the old baffle back in place impossible with my TIG skills. The solution for me was to use the old baffle to trace out on a sheet of 1/8 aluminum. I cut that out and welded it back in place. Welding the aluminum sheet to the valve cover was super easy. I also didn't see the need to do the entire baffle. I just did enough to cover the two AN and the PCV ports.



click

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Blown1
Unregistered


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 937423 posted 10/07/10 03:43 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
Any reason you went with a -12 and not -8 like the other lines?the one on the vac source to the manifold nice piece btw any updates on this setup and does eliminating the factory pcv setup(check valve or no?)have any adverse effect or can it be run in conjuction with the setup you have...
Thanks....
D

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GreenGSX
One Member


Galant VR-4 org Post #: 937489 posted 10/07/10 09:28 AM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post      
To be honest I don't remember why I went with a 12AN vacuum line to the turbo intake pipe. I am not sure if it would have been better to run a 8AN or not but I am happy with how the 12AN works. I also cannot answer your question about the PCV because I left mine stock without a check-valve.

I can tell you that I am 100% happy with how it turned out. I have zero problems with venting the crankcase and my dipstick stays put. I've checked the oil both on the stick and during an oil change and there is no evidence of condenstaion/water contamination from draining the catch can back into the block. I am also sure the drain back is working because I no longer have to add oil to the car. With the old catch can I would loose about 3/4 of a quart after 25 minutes on track most of which was sprayed under the hood. When I was at the Glen in May I think I added 1/2 a quart after two days.

There is only problem is that I have found trace amounts of oil in the turbo intake pipe and I can see where it is coming from the vacuum line. I keep an eye on that and so far it hasn't been an issue.



click

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onesickcrx
Brother of the Year
449/2000



Galant VR-4 org Post #: 937554 posted 10/07/10 12:29 PM     Remind Me!  Send Private Message   Edit Post   
This is a link to my Valve cover and baffle. I hope this helps

My Valve cover and baffle



Lack of boost

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