new to dsmlink

[dsmtalontsi95]

I just got dsmlink and installed it on my 97. After installing it I later found out that I need the number on the back of the chip to sign on to link's forums. I have a quick question while I'm at work. Last nigh I noticed that timming was droping to around 8 wile I gave the car a little gas, the car would then would shutter. I don't know why, I was only at 25% throtle. The other question I have is on the ride home lastnight the car started to hesitate (cruising at 45mph), when I got home I poped the hood and the manifold was glowing red. I have a wideaband and it looked fine on the way home. What caused this? On a final note I havn't done the lftl lo and high settings yet since the car is acting up I don't want to go far from the house to cruise at one speed. Any help is greatly appriciated.

 

[GVR4_1057]

I would say that the retarded timing is causing the glowing manifold . Find out why the timing is pulled bck first.

 

[dsmtalontsi95]

How do I find that out?

 

[GVR4_1057]

Are you showing any knock? You can also check your timing map for DSMlink. And verify your CAS timing.

 

[dsmtalontsi95]

I'm not showing any knock at all (0)

 

[ghostinthevr4]

You should also try checking your fuel settings to see if they are suited for your injectors. You should also check for boost leaks, I had a hesitating and stuttering problem turned out be a boost leak.

 

[dsmtalontsi95]

Quoting GVR4_1057:
Are you showing any knock? You can also check your timing map for DSMlink. And verify your CAS timing.



What should my timming be? I have stock injectors and a 2g maf.

 

[ghostinthevr4]

Since your on stock injectors make sure all setting are at 0, this includes your global and deadtime sine you are on stock injectors. Zero out the fuel sliders too, in the MAF section make sure you have 2gen MAF picked also go ahead and zero the airfolw sliders as well. Enter the timing area and zero those out too by zeroing everything out your just letting ECU act stock because you have no mods.

When GVR4_1057 said check your CAS timing I believe he's talking about the inverted option in the Link. It's specific to a 2gen so make sure that it's on the right selection. Also go into the miscellaneous menu and make sure you don't have the ground timing option selected, that could put a hinder on your performance. Good luck.

 

Did you set the 1G CAS with a timing light? You probably aren't at 5* BTDC when the timing terminal is grounded, so you are driving around with severely retarded timing.

 

[prove_it]

agreed. Also check all your settings. Are you running in open loop only? a simple box can ruin everything. When my chip was sent they sent mine to someone else and I got theirs so I had to change the injectors and deadtime.
just double check everything. It helps to have a friend look it over too. I've beaten myself up over something small because I didn't think it could be simple.

 

[dsmtalontsi95]

I just took the car our for a little spin and noticed that everytime the car started to hesitate the tach would jump. I've already ran into this but I thought we fixed it. I've already changed out the cas, and the coil pack before but I guess that didn't fix the issue. What tells the tach to work? Is there anything else to look for in this problem, I'm starting to think they're connected.

 

[dsmtalontsi95]

Well I think I found the issue. It's choking on fuel. I have ngk6es plugs on the car and driving at around 2-3k around town and the car was lodding up on fuel. I had a buddy come over and set the timing (3 degrees off) and took it for a drive and he said it feels like its loading up. I said "huh?", he said "watch", he hit the trhotle at around 3.5k and gave her some boost. She started to spit and then took off. He did it again and no sputter. and for the rest of the way home it didn't do it agian. He told me to change out the plugs and it should go away and also to "drive" the car while breaking it the rest of the way in.

 

[evo8ya]

BPR6ES are fine to use when on stock injectors and stockish boost level. What boost are you running?

 

[dsmtalontsi95]

I'm breaking a motor in so I'm trying not to hit any boost.

 

[ghostinthevr4]

Check your fuel filter also I hope you put a new one in there since you put a new motor in.

 

[dsmtalontsi95]

Brand new mr.gasket filter (-6 in and out)

 

[donniekak]

Quoting dsmtalontsi95:
I'm breaking a motor in so I'm trying not to hit any boost.


That will glaze the cylinder walls. Add in the fuel wash and i would do a leakdown test. Rings need load and vacuum in the first 20 miles or less to seat. After that all of the wearing in is done. I personally have taken apart engines that have run for less than an hour and the rings were worn down as far as any other used piston ring. I know a lot of people that build engines and race. Not one of them takes it easy for 500 miles before they hit the track. Most break in on the dyno in a method similar to the moto man method.

 

[prove_it]

Start engine, hold at 1200-1500 rpm so oil pressure is high, run til operating temp is reached. Shut off. Change oil. Let engine cool. Start engine. Go drive. Make 4-6 pulls up to 5000 rpm. Then two solid redline pulls. After each pull let the engine coast down under full vacuum to help clean out the cylinders. Change oil.

That's all you need to do to break in an engine.

By the way it does sound like your running really rich.