No start after sitting a few weeks

[Tommyd]

So after 610 started sputtering a few weeks ago at high rpm, I looked at the logs and discovered she was only putting out 11.6 volts across the board and even less at idle. So I parked her and ordered a new Bosch alternator, bunch of new bushings, and a few other things to make it a fun weekend project. Took the battery out and charged it. Had to move her once due to a big snow storm, and when I plopped the battery in she started right up, no issues moving. 3 weeks after moving her, I plop the battery back in today and cranks but would not turn over. Did it again and it stumbled once. Third time nothing and then backfired and let out of good ol pop which scared the neighbors. Plugged the laptop in and checked to make sure all the settings were still correct for link. Im running speed density, plugs are basically brand new. Any suggestions would be much appreciated as I wait for a second person to crank the car over while I check for spark.

 

[mitsuturbo]

"Cranks but won't turn over"

Sounds like a starter engagement issue.

 

[transparentdsm]

temp sensor on the thermostat housing? the 2 prong T.

 

[Tommyd]

Engine physically turns over but it wont start, sorry for the confusion. And Coolant temp is logging fine, few degrees off from outside temp. Even locked coolant temp with link and no change.

 

[transparentdsm]

check your grounds then, all of them.

 

[desant78]

I had a coil pack fail once to cause a similiar problem. To trouble shoot spark, I would test it with the CAS.

First, PLEASE LEAVE THE CAR IN NUETRAL. First, PLEASE LEAVE THE CAR IN NUETRAL.

Seriously, doing this I had the engine randomly bump a bit, and the car was in gear, and scared me to death. Now on to the good stuff. Remove the CAS and one spark plug. I then plugged the spark plug in, and left it on the valve cover or other source for ground. Also have the CAS plugged in, but not installed on the head/cam.

Next, I put grabbed the key and turned the car to the ON position. I walked over, and now will spin the CAS by hand. As the CAS spins, since the car is on and the ECU is on, the car will turn on the fuel pump, and start to fire the spark plugs and open/close the fuel injectors. This is a great way to test if the fuel injectors and spark plugs are firing. I had a very inconsistent response with a bad CAS. and when I swapped I new one in for the test, it was easy to tell the difference. So to sum it up, do this and expect to see spark and hear fuel injectors. It's not a bad idea to disconnect the fuel pump once you very it is working so you are not dumping fuel. I verify fuel pump is working by seeing my fuel pressure guage on the fuel pressure regulator move.

Many ways to do this, with a spare CAS and spark plug you just need to unplugg things and not remove anything.

Hope it helps, My first vr4 was like what you were explaining, and it was a coil pack.

Good luck!

 

[Tommyd]

So it was the CAS. Luckily thanks to Shane I already had a spare one laying around. And Desant, I never even though about doing that. Makes it so much easier to test with out having a second person. Learned something new, Thanks guys

 

[transparentdsm]

hey, you know extra parts laying around.

 

[Tommyd]

Well after last time when my MAF went but I thought it was my CAS, I still had yours at the house. Sadly the girlfriend doesnt enjoy the amount of parts I'm starting to accumulate between this and my next project, fd rx7 next winter.