FilthyEvo
Well-known member
Okay, I am having an issue here, and I will give a bit of a background before I get into what's wrong so I can get you guys up to par.
I just purchased this GVR4 #760/1000 with the previous owner stating that it had trouble starting in the cold weather. When I picked the car up, it sat for about 30 mins in the frigid cold, and started up alright - a little struggle. Once warm, the car drove very nice besides a low rpm cruise stutter (which I assumed would be a plug/wire issue or boost leak). The car then sat for a few days due to me working non-stop. The car would not start in the cold, but once we had a warm day (50*) it fired right up and I took it for it's maiden drive. The car drove VERY nice. Much better than I expected.
Fast forward to a few days ago (1/8/14), I grab new plugs (BRP7ES), new Coolant Temp Sensor, Rotella T 10w30 (the car currently has 20w50 in it), adn some various wiring items.
I pulled the LICP off, and replaced the Knock-off Greddy BOV with a crushed DSM bov (known working from my track car). I did notice that the knockoff Greddy has two vacuum port nipples vs. the DSM only having one. I'll get to this more later.
I pulled the CTS and replaced it with the new one. I also noticed that the wiring was very brittle, so I cut back some of the wire, added some new wire in and added a female connection onto both wires and hooked them up to the CTS.
While I was in there, I noticed one of the black wires from the O2 sensor plug (harness side) was broken off. I decided to cut off the plugs (since it was unsalvagable) and hard wire the O2 sensor in for now.
I also noticed that the vacuum line routing was all over the place. The WG was T'd to the BOV and it was ran to a post-throttle body source. I left the BOV running to that same source, and moved the WG to the throttle body "P" source.
I also changed the plugs, and gapped them to .028.
Now, when I went to start the car, it sounded like it wanted to start right away, but would run like it had an enormous boost leak. I thought maybe I left the MAS unplugged, but that wasn't the case. So, I went back and did a boost leak test, but heard no leaks whatsoever. Didn't really hear much at all actually.
All back together again, I try to start it, and it just sounds like it's running on two cylinders. I check the settings on the SAFC, and they are the same as when I picked the car up. I couldn't find anything that I left unplugged, or anything that was leaking. The car does not want to idle by itself, but if I keep on the gas a bit, it will idle enough that I can roll the car around. Also, when I pulled the plugs, they were pretty drenched with fuel.
Thing's I've checked/tested;
CTS - tested good
ISC - tested good
TPS - tested good
MAS - don't know how to test this
Boost leaks - none
SAFC wiring - all hooked up correctly
SAFC Settings - the settings zero'd themself out, so I set the LO settings for [(450/680) - 1] x 100 ; still nothing
There are a few random wires near the CTS wiring that are the same colors as the CTS wiring. I am very confused with the wiring because the previous owner attempted to do a wire tuck.
Things I haven't done are; compression check, ECU caps check, timing check. It doesn't make any sense to me though because the car ran beautifully before.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Joe
I just purchased this GVR4 #760/1000 with the previous owner stating that it had trouble starting in the cold weather. When I picked the car up, it sat for about 30 mins in the frigid cold, and started up alright - a little struggle. Once warm, the car drove very nice besides a low rpm cruise stutter (which I assumed would be a plug/wire issue or boost leak). The car then sat for a few days due to me working non-stop. The car would not start in the cold, but once we had a warm day (50*) it fired right up and I took it for it's maiden drive. The car drove VERY nice. Much better than I expected.
Fast forward to a few days ago (1/8/14), I grab new plugs (BRP7ES), new Coolant Temp Sensor, Rotella T 10w30 (the car currently has 20w50 in it), adn some various wiring items.
I pulled the LICP off, and replaced the Knock-off Greddy BOV with a crushed DSM bov (known working from my track car). I did notice that the knockoff Greddy has two vacuum port nipples vs. the DSM only having one. I'll get to this more later.
I pulled the CTS and replaced it with the new one. I also noticed that the wiring was very brittle, so I cut back some of the wire, added some new wire in and added a female connection onto both wires and hooked them up to the CTS.
While I was in there, I noticed one of the black wires from the O2 sensor plug (harness side) was broken off. I decided to cut off the plugs (since it was unsalvagable) and hard wire the O2 sensor in for now.
I also noticed that the vacuum line routing was all over the place. The WG was T'd to the BOV and it was ran to a post-throttle body source. I left the BOV running to that same source, and moved the WG to the throttle body "P" source.
I also changed the plugs, and gapped them to .028.
Now, when I went to start the car, it sounded like it wanted to start right away, but would run like it had an enormous boost leak. I thought maybe I left the MAS unplugged, but that wasn't the case. So, I went back and did a boost leak test, but heard no leaks whatsoever. Didn't really hear much at all actually.
All back together again, I try to start it, and it just sounds like it's running on two cylinders. I check the settings on the SAFC, and they are the same as when I picked the car up. I couldn't find anything that I left unplugged, or anything that was leaking. The car does not want to idle by itself, but if I keep on the gas a bit, it will idle enough that I can roll the car around. Also, when I pulled the plugs, they were pretty drenched with fuel.
Thing's I've checked/tested;
CTS - tested good
ISC - tested good
TPS - tested good
MAS - don't know how to test this
Boost leaks - none
SAFC wiring - all hooked up correctly
SAFC Settings - the settings zero'd themself out, so I set the LO settings for [(450/680) - 1] x 100 ; still nothing
There are a few random wires near the CTS wiring that are the same colors as the CTS wiring. I am very confused with the wiring because the previous owner attempted to do a wire tuck.
Things I haven't done are; compression check, ECU caps check, timing check. It doesn't make any sense to me though because the car ran beautifully before.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Joe