FilthyEvo
Well-known member
Just from trying to start it in the garage?
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Weird no-start problem after CTS replacement
- Thread starterFilthyEvo
- Start date
transparentdsm
Well-known member
it could have happened when the car was warm and the heat kept everything together and then then you went to start it cold it cleared everything out and allowed the coolant to enter the cylinder. its an engine and anything is possible.
edit: dont let me scare you, it could not be a head gasket. im just trying to help you narrow it down from the description you gave me. this is how one of my 1g acted when i blew the head gasket. it would kinda start, but die easy and it was puffing out white smoke. my head gasket blew on me when i let off of the throttle. i was driving down the road perfectly fine, came to a stop light and when i went to leave the car acted like it was dying and then it dyed right there on the side of the road. if i cranked it a bunch and kept my foot on the gas it would move and stay on but the second i let off the throttle nothing.
edit: dont let me scare you, it could not be a head gasket. im just trying to help you narrow it down from the description you gave me. this is how one of my 1g acted when i blew the head gasket. it would kinda start, but die easy and it was puffing out white smoke. my head gasket blew on me when i let off of the throttle. i was driving down the road perfectly fine, came to a stop light and when i went to leave the car acted like it was dying and then it dyed right there on the side of the road. if i cranked it a bunch and kept my foot on the gas it would move and stay on but the second i let off the throttle nothing.
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FilthyEvo
Well-known member
You have officially scared me, LOL.
Sounds just like my car, unfortunately. I didn't notice any excessive smoking when the car ran fine a few days ago.
I'll add compression test to my list of things to do.
Buy another DSM I said, it will be fun I said...
Sounds just like my car, unfortunately. I didn't notice any excessive smoking when the car ran fine a few days ago.
I'll add compression test to my list of things to do.
Buy another DSM I said, it will be fun I said...
transparentdsm
Well-known member
wow wow wow these aren't DSM's and dont confuse that. its a VR4 we share a drivetrain with the DSM's.
FilthyEvo
Well-known member
Okay, so same scenario as the 3000GT/Stealth; I should've know, lol.
I've owned about a dozen 3S's.
I've owned about a dozen 3S's.
FilthyEvo
Well-known member
Okay, well I believe I fixed the Coolant Temp Sensor wiring. The car will now fire up every time and attempts to idle by itself. It idles, around 450rpm, for about a minute before it died.
It still runs like there is a massive vac leak or it's running two cylinders. The RPM's go up so slowly with any throttle applied.
Also, the boost gauge, at idle, shows 0 on the gauge. It is not idling in vacuum.
Any ideas?
It still runs like there is a massive vac leak or it's running two cylinders. The RPM's go up so slowly with any throttle applied.
Also, the boost gauge, at idle, shows 0 on the gauge. It is not idling in vacuum.
Any ideas?
FilthyEvo
Well-known member
Car has spark at all 4 cylinders. I tested the plug wire resistance and only one was a little high, so I swapped on my back up set - which all tests nice and low.
Fixed a few grounds, and still nothing. Still runs like it's on two cylinders.
All timing marks line up.
Stumped.
Could the CAS cause the injectors firing order to be off, but still allow spark? Is there a way to test the CAS itself? Or do you have to remove it, pull the end case off, check for oil or gunk, and then reinstall to see if it's good?
I have a backup CAS, and plug, but I want to know if I can test the current one.
Fixed a few grounds, and still nothing. Still runs like it's on two cylinders.
All timing marks line up.
Stumped.
Could the CAS cause the injectors firing order to be off, but still allow spark? Is there a way to test the CAS itself? Or do you have to remove it, pull the end case off, check for oil or gunk, and then reinstall to see if it's good?
I have a backup CAS, and plug, but I want to know if I can test the current one.
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FilthyEvo
Well-known member
Tested the injectors. Resistance at around 2.1 ohms on each injector - which is in spec.
Will test the Transistor tomorrow to see if it's sending power to the injectors, as well as pulling the ECU to check for leakage/smell and to see if the caps have ever been replaced.
Any other ideas? Would the CAS have anything to go with it?
Will test the Transistor tomorrow to see if it's sending power to the injectors, as well as pulling the ECU to check for leakage/smell and to see if the caps have ever been replaced.
Any other ideas? Would the CAS have anything to go with it?
vr4play
Well-known member
Have you checked all of your afc settings. If when it zero'd itself out it could have completely reset itself and you need to go in an configure the whole thing over again before the car will run right. It could be just pouring fuel in there and washing the cylinders and causing it to burn oil which can sometimes appear to be white and not blue. My car sucks oil through the turbo sometimes and when it burns it appears more white than blue.
FilthyEvo
Well-known member
I reset the SAFC to base settings; Karmen, arrow up, 4 cyl, base settings on LO -- [(450/680) - 1] 100
Have a list of things to test today;
- Going to pull the ECU and check for leaking caps and make sure the ECU sensor ground is still intact.
- Check the Grey wire from the SAFC to ECU as throttle stays at 100% on SAFC and TPS tests good
- Another new Coolant Temp Sensor, as the last one was a different size?
- Check voltage to CTS
- New Plugs again
- Fuel Pump Relay - test and possibly bypass
- Check FPR
- CAS plug/injector plug clips/metal retainers
- Random sensor off back of thermostat
- o2 Sensor harness
I will report back after.
Have a list of things to test today;
- Going to pull the ECU and check for leaking caps and make sure the ECU sensor ground is still intact.
- Check the Grey wire from the SAFC to ECU as throttle stays at 100% on SAFC and TPS tests good
- Another new Coolant Temp Sensor, as the last one was a different size?
- Check voltage to CTS
- New Plugs again
- Fuel Pump Relay - test and possibly bypass
- Check FPR
- CAS plug/injector plug clips/metal retainers
- Random sensor off back of thermostat
- o2 Sensor harness
I will report back after.
vr4play
Well-known member
If my memory serves me right it is supposed to be set on 2 cylinder because it's waste spark.
marvinmadman
Well-known member
You sure it isn't supposed to be on 8 cylinder? Never used an AFC...
transparentdsm
Well-known member
FilthyEvo - do you know how to tune with an SAFC ? not trying to be mean just asking. if you don't you should stop where you are.
read this: click
then read this: click
and in all fairness i have tuned with an SAFC and i have no idea what "base settings on LO -- [(450/680) - 1] 100" this means. its based on percentages so i really don't know what your saying.
edit: no guys it belongs on 4 cyl
and did you do a compression test yet?
read this: click
then read this: click
and in all fairness i have tuned with an SAFC and i have no idea what "base settings on LO -- [(450/680) - 1] 100" this means. its based on percentages so i really don't know what your saying.
edit: no guys it belongs on 4 cyl
and did you do a compression test yet?
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mitsuturbo
Well-known member
Quoting vr4play:
If my memory serves me right it is supposed to be set on 2 cylinder because it's waste spark.
This is absolutely correct. Setting it to anything else MIGHT cause tuning issues, or even make the car run awful.
If my memory serves me right it is supposed to be set on 2 cylinder because it's waste spark.
This is absolutely correct. Setting it to anything else MIGHT cause tuning issues, or even make the car run awful.
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transparentdsm
Well-known member
please read the first link i posted. RRE isn't wrong.
mitsuturbo
Well-known member
transparentdsm
Well-known member
ok so he could have it tapped to a different RPM wire then. when i have installed them(only 3 ever, 2 in my cars one in a friends) i used the manual and i had all 3 of mine set to 4cyl and never had a problem. i have to remember he didn't install the SAFC. who knows where the wiring is.
vr4play
Well-known member
Quoting transparentdsm:
FilthyEvo - do you know how to tune with an SAFC ? not trying to be mean just asking. if you don't you should stop where you are.
read this: click
then read this: click
and in all fairness i have tuned with an SAFC and i have no idea what "base settings on LO -- [(450/680) - 1] 100" this means. its based on percentages so i really don't know what your saying.
edit: no guys it belongs on 4 cyl
and did you do a compression test yet?
This is from RRE's site at the bottom of the page
Troubleshooting and Common Problems:
RPM Signal off by half (1G) Because of the way that Mitsubishi triggers the ignition coils, this is normal. To fix it, just set the Cylinders to "2"
Car runs like crap, wont rev past 2-3K rpm
No change in the Hz reading on the Karman display
You read the wrong section in the manual and chose the yellow and white wires to modify the air flow signal. Wrong, you should have used the pink and orange wires.
You have a bad connection on either the pink or orange wire.
You have the pink and orange wires reversed.
You didn't select "Karman" for the air flow meter type.
No display or other power problems You have been swinging the AFC around by the wire harness. This will pull the harness out of it's internal socket. To check it or fix it, carefully unscrew the back cover with the proper small size Phillips screwdriver. Make sure the little connectors are plugged in all the way.
FilthyEvo - do you know how to tune with an SAFC ? not trying to be mean just asking. if you don't you should stop where you are.
read this: click
then read this: click
and in all fairness i have tuned with an SAFC and i have no idea what "base settings on LO -- [(450/680) - 1] 100" this means. its based on percentages so i really don't know what your saying.
edit: no guys it belongs on 4 cyl
and did you do a compression test yet?
This is from RRE's site at the bottom of the page
Troubleshooting and Common Problems:
RPM Signal off by half (1G) Because of the way that Mitsubishi triggers the ignition coils, this is normal. To fix it, just set the Cylinders to "2"
Car runs like crap, wont rev past 2-3K rpm
No change in the Hz reading on the Karman display
You read the wrong section in the manual and chose the yellow and white wires to modify the air flow signal. Wrong, you should have used the pink and orange wires.
You have a bad connection on either the pink or orange wire.
You have the pink and orange wires reversed.
You didn't select "Karman" for the air flow meter type.
No display or other power problems You have been swinging the AFC around by the wire harness. This will pull the harness out of it's internal socket. To check it or fix it, carefully unscrew the back cover with the proper small size Phillips screwdriver. Make sure the little connectors are plugged in all the way.
transparentdsm
Well-known member
edit: his problem isnt that the RPM's are off by half.
right, but like i said i have done this 3 times(real life experiences) and had no issue. im not trying arguing the fact that it may need to be set to 2cyl anymore, i was before, im just saying that in my cases 4cyl worked.
right, but like i said i have done this 3 times(real life experiences) and had no issue. im not trying arguing the fact that it may need to be set to 2cyl anymore, i was before, im just saying that in my cases 4cyl worked.
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FilthyEvo
Well-known member
Quoting transparentdsm:
FilthyEvo - do you know how to tune with an SAFC ? not trying to be mean just asking. if you don't you should stop where you are.
read this: click
then read this: click
and in all fairness i have tuned with an SAFC and i have no idea what "base settings on LO -- [(450/680) - 1] 100" this means. its based on percentages so i really don't know what your saying.
Compression test and pulling the ECU in the morning.
edit: no guys it belongs on 4 cyl
and did you do a compression test yet?
To compensate for the larger injectors (680cc) I set -30% across the LO setting as a base. To get this number; (450/680) -1*100. Stock injectors (450) divided by new injectors. (See post #6: click
FilthyEvo - do you know how to tune with an SAFC ? not trying to be mean just asking. if you don't you should stop where you are.
read this: click
then read this: click
and in all fairness i have tuned with an SAFC and i have no idea what "base settings on LO -- [(450/680) - 1] 100" this means. its based on percentages so i really don't know what your saying.
Compression test and pulling the ECU in the morning.
edit: no guys it belongs on 4 cyl
and did you do a compression test yet?
To compensate for the larger injectors (680cc) I set -30% across the LO setting as a base. To get this number; (450/680) -1*100. Stock injectors (450) divided by new injectors. (See post #6: click
