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Ideal alignment specs

thedsmguy

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 20, 2009
Messages
1,785
Location
Vancouver Washington
Please help me with some knowledge. I'm looking for what specs I could give my local shop to set my car to. I need a alignment and would like to have a good tire wear setup with a bit of performance as well. I have adj camber bars on the back so I should have a good range to work with, nothing special on the front right now. The car is lowered a bit with agx's (I know not ideal but what I have right now).
 

GreenGSX

Well-known member
Joined
May 15, 2005
Messages
681
Location
Rochester, New York
If there is no adjustment in the front camber then the whole alignment has to be based off whatever the front turns out to be. In a perfect world I would align a street car to -1.5 front camber, -1.0 rear camber, and zero toe for both the front and the rear. That can change a bit if you have a rear sway bar and how much understeer/oversteer you are looking for. A very simplistic way is to just set the rears to have about 0.5 less negative camber then the fronts and zero the toe. If you find the front camber to be way out there like -2.8 or similar consider adjusting the ride height to help dial that back in a bit.
 

fuel

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 23, 2009
Messages
2,165
Location
Toronto, ON, Canada
most cars these days will always generate more negative camber in the rear than the front when at the same even ride height front and rear - and the GVR-4 is amongst this list. Even at factory height the E39A has about -1.5 to -2.0 deg of camber in the rear while the front has -0.5 to -1.0 deg. That's just the nature of having macpherson struts in the front and wishbones/multi-link in the rear. The 7G and 8G Galants are even worse, my last 7G was lowered about an inch and ended up having -3.5 deg in the rear while the fronts were barely -2.0. My 4G Galant coupe with macpherson strut IRS in the rear also generates more negative camber in the rear than the front. Having increased negative camber in the rear helps with rear end stability in cornering and perhaps would induce quite neutral under-steering handling, however that would only work up until a certain degree where anything excessive would actually cause a severe lack of grip as the contact patch decreases because the body roll can't match the extreme angle.

I would agree mostly with the above, except I would have perhaps -2.0deg up front and -2.5deg in the rear, and have a little bit of toe out on the front to aid with cornering. Having a stiffer rear sway bar would help with reducing understeer a bit.
 

vr4play

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 7, 2008
Messages
397
Location
Cincinnati, Ohio
-2.0 and -2.5 will provide some wear on the inside of the tires. I agree with the -1.5 front and -1.0 to -1.2 in the rear. I would do 0 toe in the front with 0.08 toe in for the rear. A touch of toe in for the rear will wear the tires better than zero and make it more predictable in the rain. To get to -1.5 in the front will probably require installing one size smaller bolt in the bottom hole of the front struts. Just make sure its grade 8 or better with some large washers
 

OZRally

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 5, 2009
Messages
78
Location
Illinois
I'm on Evo Bilsteins with front factory cut springs. The rear camber is at -1.8 and the front is at -0.8. I have the toe set at 0 deg front and rear. Performance is very good and tire wear is perfect.
 
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