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Weird no-start problem after CTS replacement

FilthyEvo

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 2, 2014
Messages
57
Location
Barrington, NH
Well, I believe I found my issue.

Cracked open the ECU, and this is what I found;








Does it look repairable or should I start looking for a new ECU?

Not sure who Spectre S2 is either.
 

mitsuturbo

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Joined
Jun 2, 2008
Messages
3,551
Location
Near Seattle, Washington
Ewwwww.. NON EPROM FTL!

Find a good eprom ecu. You're going to need it when you buy Link. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 

FilthyEvo

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 2, 2014
Messages
57
Location
Barrington, NH
Quoting mitsuturbo:
Ewwwww.. NON EPROM FTL!

Find a good eprom ecu. You're going to need it when you buy Link. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif



Will do. I'm searching the classifieds now.

Is this ECU junk? This was causing my issues? Can it be fixed and converted?

If you guys could point me in the right direction, it would be much appreciated?
 

mitsuturbo

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Joined
Jun 2, 2008
Messages
3,551
Location
Near Seattle, Washington
It may not be "junk" but it certainly should be cleaned up. Those bare contacts look like they're just waiting for corrosion to begin. Whoever worked on that did a really amateur job on it. They may have known just enough to be dangerous, yet did manage to fix the ecu so it would work. I wouldn't be confident using that as anything other than possibly a diagnostic spare, at best. I'm sure it could probably be cleaned up properly, and fixed professionally, but i'm not sure a non eprom is really worth the effort.

edit: ecmlink has been socketing non eprom units for some time now but you'll have to get that thing professionally repaired anyway. You'd be better off finding a fresh eprom, preferably with a socket. It would likely cost you around the same as having that one fixed up.
 
Last edited:

mitsuturbo

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Joined
Jun 2, 2008
Messages
3,551
Location
Near Seattle, Washington
Difficult to say, but the fact that "eye" has had all the black goo removed from the top of it is also not a good sign. I certainly would NOT trust it.
 

mitsuturbo

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Joined
Jun 2, 2008
Messages
3,551
Location
Near Seattle, Washington
You would be correct. The 91-94 ECUs are identical except for the case and the actual eprom chip on them, i believe.
 

FilthyEvo

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 2, 2014
Messages
57
Location
Barrington, NH
Tested a known good rebuilt ECU.

Car fired right up, but having some weird issues now.

Car still idles high. Once I shut it off, it would not restart. Radiator was extremely hot, and smoke was coming from around this area.

I took videos, and will try to load them.

Who wants an invite to the bonfire? Ugh.
 

FilthyEvo

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 2, 2014
Messages
57
Location
Barrington, NH
Will a 1G DSM engine harness work in a GVR4?

Tired of dealing with all these broken wires and having to rewire everything. The previous owner attempted a half ass "wire tuck".
 

FilthyEvo

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 2, 2014
Messages
57
Location
Barrington, NH
O2 sensor was wired incorrectly. Grey and Black wire were switched.

I swapped in (4) 450cc injectors that all had similar resistance (2.4ohms). The car IS getting spark when the car is cold.

After swapping in the injectors, and zero-ing out the SAFC, the car fired right up and ran smoothly. Revs were smooth, idle wasn't boucning or choppy, but the idle was high. 2,000-3,000 RPM. It came down a little with the adjustment of the BISS screw.

The car idled fine, but some smoke start to come from the radiator - almost like oily finger prints were burning off, but I didn't want to chance it and shut the car off.

Once shut off, the car would NOT restart.

So, I let the car cool down for an hour. When I went back to it, it fired right up, and held idle perfectly fine. I let it run for about 20 seconds and shut it down. I wanted to see if it would restart...and it did, but it was a little tougher. I let it run for another 20-30 seconds and shut it down. It tried to start, but just kept cranking.

Now, what would cause the car not to start when the car is warmed up? Power Transistor Unit (PTU)? Would a coilpack do this?
 

dsmless

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 12, 2008
Messages
224
Location
tucson,az
Power transistor unit could do whats happening. Same problem I had with my turbo colt, it would idle fine cold but at operating temps it would shut down until it would cool down and them start up fine again. After replacing that, it ran great. So if you have an extra one plug it in and let it idle there until its warm and try restarting it after shutdown. Man I feel for you dude, its like all the gremlins that were stored away came out all at once.
 

FilthyEvo

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 2, 2014
Messages
57
Location
Barrington, NH
Power transistor unit could do whats happening. Same problem I had with my turbo colt, it would idle fine cold but at operating temps it would shut down until it would cool down and them start up fine again. After replacing that, it ran great. So if you have an extra one plug it in and let it idle there until its warm and try restarting it after shutdown. Man I feel for you dude, its like all the gremlins that were stored away came out all at once.

I'm going to try and snag one from the junkyard, or Advanced Auto. I'll see if I can find any in the classifieds, but I don't want to wait for it to ship here.

Man, I knew this car was going to be a nightmare, but I don't want to give up. It was so neglected by the previous owner that it makes me want to get it running right that much more. I just can't wait to cruise around in it again. The two days it was running, it was so fun.

It'll be running soon; I know it!
 
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