kcpaz
Well-known member
you need to just buy my chassis. It already has a cage started and I could make the price right if it was just the chassis. I'm thinking about parting the rest out
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unibody section replacement
- Thread starterDR1665
- Start date
DR1665
Well-known member
I would *love* to buy your chassis, Kent, but then what would happen to 195, here? Call it foolish, overly sentimental, or whatever, but I bought 195 to be a rally car. I've put more effort into this car in the last month than I think I have in the twelve years I've owned my Talon. To just toss that all aside and start new... Well, it would be hard for me to do.
Honestly? I'm interviewing for a second job to pay off some bills and make sure we've got cash for the house when our lease option comes up in 14 months. At the same time, my Talon and shitty Volvo wagon are going up for sale. The proceeds of which I plan on using to pick up a new daily driver. Something that doesn't look like ass. Something I can take pride in washing and waxing on a weekend. Something unmolested. Something like 1101.
Of course, that all depends on what I get for the other two cars and how much cash I can scrape up before someone just can't wait to get his GTO.
Honestly? I'm interviewing for a second job to pay off some bills and make sure we've got cash for the house when our lease option comes up in 14 months. At the same time, my Talon and shitty Volvo wagon are going up for sale. The proceeds of which I plan on using to pick up a new daily driver. Something that doesn't look like ass. Something I can take pride in washing and waxing on a weekend. Something unmolested. Something like 1101.
Of course, that all depends on what I get for the other two cars and how much cash I can scrape up before someone just can't wait to get his GTO.
DR1665
Well-known member
Gah! Got my plates ready for the welder this afternoon (two hours or so by my clock), but now I'm going to fit the SRT4 FMIC and, wouldn't you know it, the one pipe is blocked by AC lines (not ditching the AC), while the other has an inch of radiator in the way. f***!
I hate puzzles...
I hate puzzles...
DR1665
Well-known member
One hour to go, imo. Still dicking with this FMIC. I did a couple searches and found something scary: I'm pretty much the only one doing this. Larry did it on his rally car, but the lack of AC makes things a bit easier, I suppose.
For now, I think I've got clearance for the AC lines, so I'm getting medieval with the other side under the headlight and sidemember. Still need to make about half an inch of room for the outlet between the sidemember and radiator. I'm also going to take vice grips to the metal fins on the far ends of the damaged radiator to see if I could just bend the ones on the new radiator for about half that distance. This thing will need supports below and a reworking of the upright which supports the hood latch assembly.
I really hope I can pull this off today.
For now, I think I've got clearance for the AC lines, so I'm getting medieval with the other side under the headlight and sidemember. Still need to make about half an inch of room for the outlet between the sidemember and radiator. I'm also going to take vice grips to the metal fins on the far ends of the damaged radiator to see if I could just bend the ones on the new radiator for about half that distance. This thing will need supports below and a reworking of the upright which supports the hood latch assembly.
I really hope I can pull this off today.
I have a Slowboy short-route 1g intercooler set up on mine just like that with fully functioning AC. I can maybe throw up a few pics if need be, as I ran into that same snag.
Nick
Nick
DR1665
Well-known member
Appreciate the offer, Nick, but it looks like I'm righteously hosed. I don't know where I picked up that a 1G radiator isn't as wide as the GVR4, which allows the SRT4 IC's inlet/outlet to slip between the radiator and sidemembers, but it was wrong. If it wasn't wrong, then this 1G radiator I've got isn't OEM (I doubt it is, has metal tanks). I took the radiator and compared it to the IC and, sh*t, the radiator itself is about an inch too wide. I can't bend the tabs in on each side without damaging the tubes/fins, so I don't know what I'm going to do for an IC on such short notice and funds.
This is sh*t city.
This is sh*t city.
HHIVR4
Well-known member
Nice to see its comming together..
Convert over to a Honda Civic stlye radiator, on short notice/funds, one could be had for cheap (~$20) at a local salvage yard. That is the route I ended up going with my VR-4, Koyo Civic radiator, pretty much a direct bolt-on with half the size.
Nick
Nick
Last edited by a moderator:
PreskitVR4
Well-known member
you could have the stocker off of 501. Wasn't planning on the Spearco hotness yet, but to help you out and keep you on the path of progress, I'll bring it down to you. PM sent.
DR1665
Well-known member
That's awesome, boss! Much appreciated! Got your PM and will get you a call this evening sometime. Was a little tied up last night when I got the email about the PM...
Tonight I'm going to see about taking a cut off wheel and Dremel to the tabs on the verticals up either side of the radiator to trim an inch from it's width. If I can pull that off, I can probably fit the SRT unit. We'll see, though. I'm not going to get too adventurous with a Dremel at this point. If the SRT IC isn't a clear cut installation after some minor trimming, I'll be looking into non-intercooled to get the car to Prescott as was the goal. (It only makes 7psi without the MBC.)
If you've got the factory piping that comes under the core support on each side as well, that would be dope. I'll throw you some cash for it all. I'll be in your neck of the woods this weekend for the rally. Galant might end up spending most of the time at the Prescottonian back in town while I'm up in Chino doing service. If you're around, I'll be close to the brown/gold Blazer in the service park. Red shirt. Red hat.
f***ing stoked. Core has been welded on. Final assembly time!
Tonight I'm going to see about taking a cut off wheel and Dremel to the tabs on the verticals up either side of the radiator to trim an inch from it's width. If I can pull that off, I can probably fit the SRT unit. We'll see, though. I'm not going to get too adventurous with a Dremel at this point. If the SRT IC isn't a clear cut installation after some minor trimming, I'll be looking into non-intercooled to get the car to Prescott as was the goal. (It only makes 7psi without the MBC.)
If you've got the factory piping that comes under the core support on each side as well, that would be dope. I'll throw you some cash for it all. I'll be in your neck of the woods this weekend for the rally. Galant might end up spending most of the time at the Prescottonian back in town while I'm up in Chino doing service. If you're around, I'll be close to the brown/gold Blazer in the service park. Red shirt. Red hat.
f***ing stoked. Core has been welded on. Final assembly time!
DR1665
Well-known member
Okay. Here's some pictures of the actual welds made on the car. Keep in mind, I provided Mike with a need to connect two sections which were slightly askew (beyond my repair abilities), a handful of cheap, angle iron cut into sections, and the three coat hangers he used for rod, since he actually left his welding rod at home. The plan is to follow this up in the very near future with some strapping above and below which has carriage bolts running through it, top to bottom. For now, though, the car is solid enough to get to Prescott.
#1 PS, inside. Angle iron pounded semi-flat, covers seam between sidemember sections, angle iron across cut along top.
#2 PS, outside. Another semi-flat plate slipped under the car-side member, and over the core-side. This allowed for a butt weld at the joint.
#3 DS, outside. No clearance to get inside with the engine and accessories in there, so we went outside.
#1 PS, inside. Angle iron pounded semi-flat, covers seam between sidemember sections, angle iron across cut along top.
#2 PS, outside. Another semi-flat plate slipped under the car-side member, and over the core-side. This allowed for a butt weld at the joint.
#3 DS, outside. No clearance to get inside with the engine and accessories in there, so we went outside.
Been watching your thread here Brian and I must tell you that I admire your patience and perseverance.
Ac on a rally car, huh? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hsugh.gif
I have an old 1g oem radiator from my black talon that you can have. Has about 140K miles on it but it worked fine when I took it out to replace it with a fluidyne that I already had from a previous dsm.
Ac on a rally car, huh? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hsugh.gif
I have an old 1g oem radiator from my black talon that you can have. Has about 140K miles on it but it worked fine when I took it out to replace it with a fluidyne that I already had from a previous dsm.
DR1665
Well-known member
Quoting Mike_1101:
Been watching your thread here Brian and I must tell you that I admire your patience and perseverance.
Ac on a rally car, huh?
I have an old 1g oem radiator from my black talon that you can have. Has about 140K miles on it but it worked fine when I took it out to replace it with a fluidyne that I already had from a previous dsm.
AWESOME! Any chance I could talk you into taking a tape measure to it this evening, sir? I'm not worried about the width of the end tanks at top and bottom, but the width of the actual cooling area. My brain has so many numbers in it at the moment here at work that I can't be sure I recall the measurement I took of the one I've got. If you can let me know how wide that thing is, and it's 0.75" narrower than the one I've got (meaning no cutting/trimming), I will come to Mesa from Glendale to get it either tonight or tomorrow.
Things go well, I'll be driving this beast out to INO next week. We can park the flat black, CHAR GVR4 next to Number 3. That would be cool. Haha.
Been watching your thread here Brian and I must tell you that I admire your patience and perseverance.
Ac on a rally car, huh?
I have an old 1g oem radiator from my black talon that you can have. Has about 140K miles on it but it worked fine when I took it out to replace it with a fluidyne that I already had from a previous dsm.
AWESOME! Any chance I could talk you into taking a tape measure to it this evening, sir? I'm not worried about the width of the end tanks at top and bottom, but the width of the actual cooling area. My brain has so many numbers in it at the moment here at work that I can't be sure I recall the measurement I took of the one I've got. If you can let me know how wide that thing is, and it's 0.75" narrower than the one I've got (meaning no cutting/trimming), I will come to Mesa from Glendale to get it either tonight or tomorrow.
Things go well, I'll be driving this beast out to INO next week. We can park the flat black, CHAR GVR4 next to Number 3. That would be cool. Haha.
DR1665
Well-known member
UPDATE!
Met up with Mike 1101 last night. Helluva guy for driving 30 miles out of his way after dinner to meet me in a mall parking lot to just give me a radiator. Sure, it might have been in his parents' garage for six years and they might have been after him to get it gone, but easily a couple hours out of his evening to help me out. I really appreciate that.
Dale, up in "Preskitt," has offered a stock GVR4 IC to me this weekend as well. Should I need it, it's nice to know I can roll up to Prescott non-intercooled and snatch that up. Also VERY much appreciated!
So, with an actual OEM 1G radiator in hand, I will be attempting to fit the SRT4 FMIC again tonight. Once that little issue is decided (fits or not), all that remains is the following:
- cap high pressure 4WS lines
- fill radiator
- secure wire harness with zip ties, double check connections
- jump start
- drive
I've also got to switch a CD player out of the Talon so I've got tunes in the car. I haven't had a radio in my daily since February!
Will update!
Met up with Mike 1101 last night. Helluva guy for driving 30 miles out of his way after dinner to meet me in a mall parking lot to just give me a radiator. Sure, it might have been in his parents' garage for six years and they might have been after him to get it gone, but easily a couple hours out of his evening to help me out. I really appreciate that.
Dale, up in "Preskitt," has offered a stock GVR4 IC to me this weekend as well. Should I need it, it's nice to know I can roll up to Prescott non-intercooled and snatch that up. Also VERY much appreciated!
So, with an actual OEM 1G radiator in hand, I will be attempting to fit the SRT4 FMIC again tonight. Once that little issue is decided (fits or not), all that remains is the following:
- cap high pressure 4WS lines
- fill radiator
- secure wire harness with zip ties, double check connections
- jump start
- drive
I've also got to switch a CD player out of the Talon so I've got tunes in the car. I haven't had a radio in my daily since February!
Will update!
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DR1665
Well-known member
SRT4 FMIC FITS (just barely)!
I just spent a couple hours trimming the one radiator to make room for this thing. The radiator I got from Mike was just a wee bit narrower, but the larger tabs on the wider radiator were easier to trim and snap off. I'm going to hold onto this other radiator in case I damaged the one in the car in the modification process. If it's good to go, then I'll have a spare ready to pay forward to someone else who might need one.
With the sides trimmed, it's a super close fit, but it looks pretty damn good from the front. (Most of this car will look better when the hood is down after all these repairs.) It's a hair off center, but I'm satisfied.
It looks crooked because there is no means in place to secure the IC yet. I figure I'll go with some 90* brackets above and below it to provide support and hold it in place. In the pictures above, it's just sort of sitting on the box, which is barely too short to hold it up where I want it.
I've got to secure the wire harness out of the way (tricky, considering there's no room between the PS sidemember/IC outlet/radiator) and get things plugged back in, then the final mounting of the radiator (it's drying on the porch right now after a liberal hose down). I don't see all that as taking too much time. After that, I've got to plumb the thing. The inlet on the DS is that retarded oval shape and a 2.5" coupler barely goes over it. The ABS/PVC I'm going to use to plumb it all tomorrow or Thursday night only comes in 1", 1.5", 2" and 3" sizes, so I figure that will be a bit of a clusterfuck for sure. Otherwise, the piping shouldn't be too difficult.
- A length from the J-pipe over to a 90* which drops down into the inlet.
- Cut the OEM outlet pipe (which has the BOV mounted to it) just south of the BOV and run a length of hose from the outlet to the pipe.
- A small section of ABS/PVC from the OEM BOV pipe to the TB elbow.
The PVC/hose solution isn't for the long term. It's just to get the car running so I can take it to Prescott this weekend and see how the car drives. After that, I'll be talking to AMM about some proper piping and possibly a reworking of the inlet/outlet on the FMIC for a better fit.
Top it off with coolant, cap the 4WS high pressure lines, spray the bumper cover, install the bumper, and it's done!
I just spent a couple hours trimming the one radiator to make room for this thing. The radiator I got from Mike was just a wee bit narrower, but the larger tabs on the wider radiator were easier to trim and snap off. I'm going to hold onto this other radiator in case I damaged the one in the car in the modification process. If it's good to go, then I'll have a spare ready to pay forward to someone else who might need one.
With the sides trimmed, it's a super close fit, but it looks pretty damn good from the front. (Most of this car will look better when the hood is down after all these repairs.) It's a hair off center, but I'm satisfied.
It looks crooked because there is no means in place to secure the IC yet. I figure I'll go with some 90* brackets above and below it to provide support and hold it in place. In the pictures above, it's just sort of sitting on the box, which is barely too short to hold it up where I want it.
I've got to secure the wire harness out of the way (tricky, considering there's no room between the PS sidemember/IC outlet/radiator) and get things plugged back in, then the final mounting of the radiator (it's drying on the porch right now after a liberal hose down). I don't see all that as taking too much time. After that, I've got to plumb the thing. The inlet on the DS is that retarded oval shape and a 2.5" coupler barely goes over it. The ABS/PVC I'm going to use to plumb it all tomorrow or Thursday night only comes in 1", 1.5", 2" and 3" sizes, so I figure that will be a bit of a clusterfuck for sure. Otherwise, the piping shouldn't be too difficult.
- A length from the J-pipe over to a 90* which drops down into the inlet.
- Cut the OEM outlet pipe (which has the BOV mounted to it) just south of the BOV and run a length of hose from the outlet to the pipe.
- A small section of ABS/PVC from the OEM BOV pipe to the TB elbow.
The PVC/hose solution isn't for the long term. It's just to get the car running so I can take it to Prescott this weekend and see how the car drives. After that, I'll be talking to AMM about some proper piping and possibly a reworking of the inlet/outlet on the FMIC for a better fit.
Top it off with coolant, cap the 4WS high pressure lines, spray the bumper cover, install the bumper, and it's done!
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turbowop
Well-known member
On the driver's side of my car I had to trim some of that metal off the radiator to fit my piping. No biggie.
DR1665
Well-known member
Bad news, good news, cool news.
THE BAD NEWS.
Installed the radiator tonight and added coolant. Burped the system (hint: good news /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hsugh.gif). Went to install the OEM 1G radiator fans that I picked to replace the destroyed SPAL slim fans I had only to find that, not only do they have the wrong connectors (not really bad news), but the one that goes in front of the turbo is too f***ing thick to fit between the turbo and radiator! What the hell is it with me and OEM freaking parts being the wrong size? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bawling.gif
I've got posts up on the local DSM_SW and az2gnt looking for anyone who can hook me up tomorrow night after work. It's my last night to get the car done if I'm going to take it to the rally Friday morning. (Which would be the first time the Galant has gone to this, the rally that inspired me to get a GVR4 in the first place.)
Also worth mentioning, the one fan that does fit has a brace resting against the WG, pushing the entire f***ing radiator over to the PS half an inch, which means the FMIC has fitment issues again. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bawling.gif
THE GOOD NEWS.
I am a retard. I routed the wire harness along the lower section of the core support, connected all the sensors and whatnot, then hooked up the battery, which has been sitting on a pallet for three months. Tried to start the car. It cranked and cranked and cranked, but wouldn't light off. I got out of the car and began the usual tirade of how much God hates me and how it's bad enough I'm down to the wire scraping this thing together, but now I'm going to have to troubleshoot a freaking no start condition too. I go to check the fuses when I remember telling Mike Sunday night as I was disconnecting the ECU in preparation for welding that I would probably forget to reconnect it and spend an hour freaking out that the car won't start.
So I got it started tonight. I filled the coolant and burped the system. Thermostat opens right at 190* like it should. Had a little idle surge, but it was sort of comforting to be reunited with an old friend. I'll take idle surge over mangled front end any day of the week. Dialed out the idle with the BISS and the car idled like a rock. Oil level was still perfect and looked like honey. (It better. I only had two days on an oil change before the wreck.)
Then I figured, since I can't finish the car tonight, and I've been working like a damn slave on it pretty much every weekend since the Shootout, I deserve a f***ing test drive, so I backed it out of the garage and took a quick spin around the block. Still have no power steering and I only got the quick trip around the block before the coolant temp was up to 190*, but man, let me tell you. That felt really, really f***ing good.
THE COOL NEWS.
When I stopped at the corner to make the second turn around the block, I noticed the dash clock...
Yeah. I'm a fan. This probably just means it was three hours, eleven minutes between installing the battery and taking the drive, but I'm hoping it's a good sign.
Not out of the woods yet, and it can go either way right now, but here's all that's left:
- rewire and trim cooling fan
- source, wire, and install slim fan
- cut, cap high pressure 4WS lines
- plumb intercooler
- legit test drive (there seemed to be a wobble, hope it's a tire)
THE BAD NEWS.
Installed the radiator tonight and added coolant. Burped the system (hint: good news /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hsugh.gif). Went to install the OEM 1G radiator fans that I picked to replace the destroyed SPAL slim fans I had only to find that, not only do they have the wrong connectors (not really bad news), but the one that goes in front of the turbo is too f***ing thick to fit between the turbo and radiator! What the hell is it with me and OEM freaking parts being the wrong size? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bawling.gif
I've got posts up on the local DSM_SW and az2gnt looking for anyone who can hook me up tomorrow night after work. It's my last night to get the car done if I'm going to take it to the rally Friday morning. (Which would be the first time the Galant has gone to this, the rally that inspired me to get a GVR4 in the first place.)
Also worth mentioning, the one fan that does fit has a brace resting against the WG, pushing the entire f***ing radiator over to the PS half an inch, which means the FMIC has fitment issues again. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bawling.gif
THE GOOD NEWS.
I am a retard. I routed the wire harness along the lower section of the core support, connected all the sensors and whatnot, then hooked up the battery, which has been sitting on a pallet for three months. Tried to start the car. It cranked and cranked and cranked, but wouldn't light off. I got out of the car and began the usual tirade of how much God hates me and how it's bad enough I'm down to the wire scraping this thing together, but now I'm going to have to troubleshoot a freaking no start condition too. I go to check the fuses when I remember telling Mike Sunday night as I was disconnecting the ECU in preparation for welding that I would probably forget to reconnect it and spend an hour freaking out that the car won't start.
So I got it started tonight. I filled the coolant and burped the system. Thermostat opens right at 190* like it should. Had a little idle surge, but it was sort of comforting to be reunited with an old friend. I'll take idle surge over mangled front end any day of the week. Dialed out the idle with the BISS and the car idled like a rock. Oil level was still perfect and looked like honey. (It better. I only had two days on an oil change before the wreck.)
Then I figured, since I can't finish the car tonight, and I've been working like a damn slave on it pretty much every weekend since the Shootout, I deserve a f***ing test drive, so I backed it out of the garage and took a quick spin around the block. Still have no power steering and I only got the quick trip around the block before the coolant temp was up to 190*, but man, let me tell you. That felt really, really f***ing good.
THE COOL NEWS.
When I stopped at the corner to make the second turn around the block, I noticed the dash clock...
Yeah. I'm a fan. This probably just means it was three hours, eleven minutes between installing the battery and taking the drive, but I'm hoping it's a good sign.
Not out of the woods yet, and it can go either way right now, but here's all that's left:
- rewire and trim cooling fan
- source, wire, and install slim fan
- cut, cap high pressure 4WS lines
- plumb intercooler
- legit test drive (there seemed to be a wobble, hope it's a tire)
chrisb33
Well-known member
congratulations! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif she runs!!!! hope you make it to your rally dude.
Chris b
Chris b
sixsixtwo
Well-known member
pretty sure the clock resets at 1:00 when the battery is disconnected.
