PreskitVR4
Well-known member
Strong finish Brian. Cant wait to see her in person, good job! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif
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unibody section replacement
- Thread starterDR1665
- Start date
DR1665
Well-known member
Quoting turbowop:
Oh good. You are installing a bumper, or the cover at least. When I read that you weren't going to install the bumper, I assumed you meant the whole thing. I was like /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif . Looks much better than before. Did you get the issue with the core support differences sorted out?
Roffles. I have always wanted to troll the streets for a few days sans bumper cover to issue a warning to the ricers a la FMIC. This is my first FMIC, so I'm going to enjoy the open airiness of things for a couple days. Tonight, however, we're ready to go to work tomorrow.
Angle brackets mounted below the fooler are bolted to the core support. I'm getting ready to mix up a batch of JB Weld to fixture the bottom of the intercooler to their tops. This should keep it level and secure.
Tomorrow is also my first night at Home Depot for the second job. Free time will be at a premium, so I'll be wrapping things up in bits from here on out, but yes, the bumper cover is definitely going back on. The level 3 inspection I have to get for the restored salvage title will test all my lights, door fitment, and safety equipment. I'll have to do a fine adjustment of the shifter to get it to activate the reverse lights, finally address that damn latch plate on the driver's front door, and - get this - troubleshoot the horn. If I unlock the driver's door from outside by reaching through the window, the damn "alarm" goes off, but the horns won't sound on the button. Might be the 1G wheel I've got in there.
In any case, it's been a long and weary road to get here, but I'm stoked to be able to drive the car to work tomorrow. I actually drove it over to my inlaws' house this afternoon to use the drill press for finalizing the intercooler mounts. There's still a lot of work to do on 195, but I think it's safe to say this GVR4 has returned. (Even if only unofficially at this point.)
Oh good. You are installing a bumper, or the cover at least. When I read that you weren't going to install the bumper, I assumed you meant the whole thing. I was like /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif . Looks much better than before. Did you get the issue with the core support differences sorted out?
Roffles. I have always wanted to troll the streets for a few days sans bumper cover to issue a warning to the ricers a la FMIC. This is my first FMIC, so I'm going to enjoy the open airiness of things for a couple days. Tonight, however, we're ready to go to work tomorrow.
Angle brackets mounted below the fooler are bolted to the core support. I'm getting ready to mix up a batch of JB Weld to fixture the bottom of the intercooler to their tops. This should keep it level and secure.
Tomorrow is also my first night at Home Depot for the second job. Free time will be at a premium, so I'll be wrapping things up in bits from here on out, but yes, the bumper cover is definitely going back on. The level 3 inspection I have to get for the restored salvage title will test all my lights, door fitment, and safety equipment. I'll have to do a fine adjustment of the shifter to get it to activate the reverse lights, finally address that damn latch plate on the driver's front door, and - get this - troubleshoot the horn. If I unlock the driver's door from outside by reaching through the window, the damn "alarm" goes off, but the horns won't sound on the button. Might be the 1G wheel I've got in there.
In any case, it's been a long and weary road to get here, but I'm stoked to be able to drive the car to work tomorrow. I actually drove it over to my inlaws' house this afternoon to use the drill press for finalizing the intercooler mounts. There's still a lot of work to do on 195, but I think it's safe to say this GVR4 has returned. (Even if only unofficially at this point.)
turbowop
Well-known member
That's funny. When I rebuilt 503, the state patrol didn't do any sort of safety inspection at all. They just made sure I didn't use stolen parts to reassemble the car. Kind of scary that's all they car about in WA state. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/uhh.gif
ScreaminE
Well-known member
I spy Daisey in the background!!!
toybreaker
iconoclast
- Joined
- Apr 30, 2006
- Messages
- 3,581
Quote:
troubleshoot the horn. If I unlock the driver's door from outside by reaching through the window, the damn "alarm" goes off, but the horns won't sound on the button. Might be the 1G wheel I've got in there.
Brian, the horn you hear when the alarm is activated are not the same ones that are activated by the steering wheel. The alarm horn is up on the firewall, behind the strut tower on the drivers side.
Do a quicky test for power on the green/white wire on the back of the horns (in the front of the car.) The key must be on! (accesory position at the least).
If there's no joy, check the 10amp fuse in the front junction box.
You can also verify that they are getting power by turning the key to acc, and then grounding the green/black wire at the back of teh horns, one at a time. (should honk)
If they work, then go to the steering wheel, pull the pad, and ground the horn wire against the bare metal of the back of the wheel. If it honks, the problem is in the pad.
If they don't, then the wire is broken between the column and teh front of the car.
As an aside, I've had issues with the reverse light switch on my dsm's. They'd flash for half a sec, and then go out. Suprisingly enough, putting another copper washer under the switch to raise it out of the case solved that, both times. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
Good luck!
troubleshoot the horn. If I unlock the driver's door from outside by reaching through the window, the damn "alarm" goes off, but the horns won't sound on the button. Might be the 1G wheel I've got in there.
Brian, the horn you hear when the alarm is activated are not the same ones that are activated by the steering wheel. The alarm horn is up on the firewall, behind the strut tower on the drivers side.
Do a quicky test for power on the green/white wire on the back of the horns (in the front of the car.) The key must be on! (accesory position at the least).
If there's no joy, check the 10amp fuse in the front junction box.
You can also verify that they are getting power by turning the key to acc, and then grounding the green/black wire at the back of teh horns, one at a time. (should honk)
If they work, then go to the steering wheel, pull the pad, and ground the horn wire against the bare metal of the back of the wheel. If it honks, the problem is in the pad.
If they don't, then the wire is broken between the column and teh front of the car.
As an aside, I've had issues with the reverse light switch on my dsm's. They'd flash for half a sec, and then go out. Suprisingly enough, putting another copper washer under the switch to raise it out of the case solved that, both times. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
Good luck!
turbowop
Well-known member
I've had horns go bad also. The alarm horn (which is the same kind as the "go bitch, the light is f***ing green" horn) on 1051 didn't work, even when running 12v to it directly. Picked one up at a junkyard, cleaned it up and installed it. Works great.
DR1665
Well-known member
Thank you for the horn troubleshooting tips, sir. They will most certainly come in handy.
Drove 195 to work this morning. Noticed a couple things that mildly concern me...
Most important, driveline noise. In the hour or so I spent in traffic, I noticed a sort of raspy, something-rubbing-on-something-else noise. Trying this and trying that, I want to suspect it's the TOB come loose after the impact. The noise is like a brake pad worn down to the metal, rubbing lightly on the rotor while driving (if you're familiar). It speeds up with engine speed, but only under load. It's still there during compression braking, albeit much, much quieter. Engaging the clutch makes it go completely away.
I figure, if it were the diff, t-case, or carrier bearings on the prop shaft, the sound might go away when the engine (load) is removed from the line (clutch in), but the sound would get louder/faster in relation to vehicle/wheel speed, as those parts are continually in motion. The noise seems tied to engine speed (rpm). During acceleration, the noise will speed up with the revs, then, when I shift gears, it starts all over again. I will double check the fluids tonight when I get home, but there were no leaks after the accident other than the 4WS lines under the core support that were broken.
Insight?
Temps are still a minor concern. When it's 60* outside (summer is over in Arizona - YAY!) and there is nothing in front of the radiator but a smaller FMIC and AC condenser (bumper/cover still not in place), I figure temps shouldn't be hanging at 210*, but I could be wrong. At one point last night, while idling, temps climbed to almost 230* while idling. That's a bit high for my liking, but maybe it's nothing. I've got all winter (til February) to rework the cooling system to my liking.
Appreciate the support.
Drove 195 to work this morning. Noticed a couple things that mildly concern me...
Most important, driveline noise. In the hour or so I spent in traffic, I noticed a sort of raspy, something-rubbing-on-something-else noise. Trying this and trying that, I want to suspect it's the TOB come loose after the impact. The noise is like a brake pad worn down to the metal, rubbing lightly on the rotor while driving (if you're familiar). It speeds up with engine speed, but only under load. It's still there during compression braking, albeit much, much quieter. Engaging the clutch makes it go completely away.
I figure, if it were the diff, t-case, or carrier bearings on the prop shaft, the sound might go away when the engine (load) is removed from the line (clutch in), but the sound would get louder/faster in relation to vehicle/wheel speed, as those parts are continually in motion. The noise seems tied to engine speed (rpm). During acceleration, the noise will speed up with the revs, then, when I shift gears, it starts all over again. I will double check the fluids tonight when I get home, but there were no leaks after the accident other than the 4WS lines under the core support that were broken.
Insight?
Temps are still a minor concern. When it's 60* outside (summer is over in Arizona - YAY!) and there is nothing in front of the radiator but a smaller FMIC and AC condenser (bumper/cover still not in place), I figure temps shouldn't be hanging at 210*, but I could be wrong. At one point last night, while idling, temps climbed to almost 230* while idling. That's a bit high for my liking, but maybe it's nothing. I've got all winter (til February) to rework the cooling system to my liking.
Appreciate the support.
DR1665
Well-known member
This is day three of the shakedown.
I've been driving the Galant exclusively so far this week. I'm happy to report that the coolant temps have remained stable and both fans are working as they should. Car pulls nicely under boost as well. Aside from being almost panic-stricken every time I see someone waiting to make a left across my lane in an intersection, I'm pretty stoked. It's a weird feeling, though. Even though I know the car is securely put back together again, having spent so much time with it being cut up like it was leaves me with this sinking feeling like it could fall apart on me.
The front driver CV is definitely clicking, and now it seems the brakes have finally decided to make noise. That's all going to get replaced here shortly.
In looking at the bumper cover last night when I got home, I noticed there's really only mounting provisions at the lower edges of the fenders and across the bumper itself. Without there being a bumper actually installed on the car, does anyone have any suggestions on how to support the bumper cover on the front of the car across the middle (under the grille)? I don't want it sagging and getting mofuk'd up.
Thanks!
I've been driving the Galant exclusively so far this week. I'm happy to report that the coolant temps have remained stable and both fans are working as they should. Car pulls nicely under boost as well. Aside from being almost panic-stricken every time I see someone waiting to make a left across my lane in an intersection, I'm pretty stoked. It's a weird feeling, though. Even though I know the car is securely put back together again, having spent so much time with it being cut up like it was leaves me with this sinking feeling like it could fall apart on me.
The front driver CV is definitely clicking, and now it seems the brakes have finally decided to make noise. That's all going to get replaced here shortly.
In looking at the bumper cover last night when I got home, I noticed there's really only mounting provisions at the lower edges of the fenders and across the bumper itself. Without there being a bumper actually installed on the car, does anyone have any suggestions on how to support the bumper cover on the front of the car across the middle (under the grille)? I don't want it sagging and getting mofuk'd up.
Thanks!
DR1665
Well-known member
LOU: Long Overdue Update
I stripped the front end down again, pulled the engine, and took the car to AMM's house so he could take his time doing FINAL, final front end repairs. 195/2000 is OFFICIALLY back to Square One of the rally car build. This was supposed to happen at Kent's shop, but I was able to help out two friends by letting Mike do it. We still need to lay down a couple Mig beads on those CrMo crossmember mounts, but otherwise, the front end is solid.
In the last picture, you can see how it's a bit too tight to get the Tig in there, so that's where we're going to use the Mig. The stamped steel unibody is a real PITA to weld up. Super thin in some places, gooey adhesive between layers in others. Getting a non-contaminated bead can be tricky. Regardless, I'm very happy with the way this has turned out.
I've sourced a Cyclone manifold and will be controlling it via EPROM as part of a speed density conversion. I'm also going to be running some hard piping for the SRT4 FMIC. First, though, I'm going to clean out the engine bay and paint it white. White makes it a whole lot easier to spot trouble imo. After that, I think there's time before MOD to get the car over to Kent for the front and main hoops.
Next project: removing the windshield and roof skin
I stripped the front end down again, pulled the engine, and took the car to AMM's house so he could take his time doing FINAL, final front end repairs. 195/2000 is OFFICIALLY back to Square One of the rally car build. This was supposed to happen at Kent's shop, but I was able to help out two friends by letting Mike do it. We still need to lay down a couple Mig beads on those CrMo crossmember mounts, but otherwise, the front end is solid.
In the last picture, you can see how it's a bit too tight to get the Tig in there, so that's where we're going to use the Mig. The stamped steel unibody is a real PITA to weld up. Super thin in some places, gooey adhesive between layers in others. Getting a non-contaminated bead can be tricky. Regardless, I'm very happy with the way this has turned out.
I've sourced a Cyclone manifold and will be controlling it via EPROM as part of a speed density conversion. I'm also going to be running some hard piping for the SRT4 FMIC. First, though, I'm going to clean out the engine bay and paint it white. White makes it a whole lot easier to spot trouble imo. After that, I think there's time before MOD to get the car over to Kent for the front and main hoops.
Next project: removing the windshield and roof skin
