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The ultimate street galant in the making? Cheekychimp's

cheekychimp

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 19, 2004
Messages
7,333
Location
East Sussex, U.K.
Quote:
Is this car ever going to be done?? LOL



You guys are cruel /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bawling.gif

Rush a job and you get flamed for doing a 'duct tape' mod ... take your time to get it right and you get flamed for procrastination.

All I will say is if you are expecting to get in line to pick up cheap quality parts when another unfinished project gets parted out ...

IT AIN'T GONNA HAPPEN !!!

It will be done, and you will all be jealous ... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif
 

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/worthy.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/worthy.gif
 

Hertz

Staff member
Joined
Jul 29, 2002
Messages
13,501
Location
Chicago, IL
Hell, I've been working on my car for 3 years and nobody has said a thing... except the wife. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

jcgalntvr4-244

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 9, 2003
Messages
3,135
Location
DesMoines Iowa
Hertzhows the car doing? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

1gnasty

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 9, 2005
Messages
913
Location
garfield nj
the sickest car in the making /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/worthy.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/worthy.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif
 

Quote:
Hell, I've been working on my car for 3 years and nobody has said a thing... except the wife. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

If you had a 15 month old thread showing all the finest parts to make the "ultimate street Galant", to the point that it needed its own bill of lading for the shipment, and came in multiple, not just boxes, but crates, you would get a lot of crap about it too /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif.
 

cheekychimp

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 19, 2004
Messages
7,333
Location
East Sussex, U.K.
Quote:
If you had a 15 month old thread showing all the finest parts to make the "ultimate street Galant", to the point that it needed its own bill of lading for the shipment, and came in multiple, not just boxes, but crates, you would get a lot of crap about it too .



15 months /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif has it really been that long? You do all realize that I spent about 12 months of research on parts and different cars before this thread was even started ... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
 

^ The first post (in Arizona time)
Quote:
posted 05/18/05 06:20 AM

I was actually giving you the benifit of the fact that it hasn't completed the 16 month /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif.
 

curtis

Well-known member
Joined
May 4, 2003
Messages
11,892
Location
Clarksville TN
I'm the 10,000 viewer.....
 

number3

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 26, 2001
Messages
7,623
Location
KoP, PA
Too much fill.

Topic please.
 

cheekychimp

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 19, 2004
Messages
7,333
Location
East Sussex, U.K.
Well, finally got back down to the shop yesterday and pulled the spare fuel tank I picked up from Ken (Yiuwa's friend and Hong Kong resident VR4 expert). We used POR-15 marine clean and metal ready to clean out of the inside of the tank and then prepped and painted the whole exterior with POR-15 (including the filler neck which was in my opinion by far the most important part to do). Every Mitsu I have had has had water in the fuel at some point due to that filler neck rusting through and getting holes in it.

Tried to fit Al's stainless steel fuel pump housing ... it doesn't fit /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif ... Al and I deliberated for a long time over the length of housing to use and picked the one to fit the existing tank, then this other tank turned up in almost perfect condition but it is shallower /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif Nevermind, it's an easy fix, we'll just rebend the fuel pump support at the right length, drill and tap a hole and cut off the extra.

We had some paint left over so we also did some of the underbody supports for the skid plate and the dump tube. I don't think the POR-15 will stand up to the heat but given that it is so tough, I thought I'd give it a go for the hell of it. We'll be doing the underbody next week.

Now I just need to get a hold of Andre!!!
 

right on, progress is a good thing.

time for some 10hour days my boy.
take a lesson from my title.
 

cheekychimp

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 19, 2004
Messages
7,333
Location
East Sussex, U.K.
10 hour days! Dude I wish. I work more 17 hour shifts than I do 8 hour ones /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

Well, POR-15 has become my best friend, partly because I use it to paint everything and partly because my hands and arms are tattoed with it. It takes roughly six days to get off and I think that's only when you shed the top layers of skin and new stuff grows underneath.

We found some rust today (I knew it was too good to be true) but not too much. I pulled both bumpers and the RS intercooler, fenders doglegs and side skirts and painted the whole lower chassis, skid plate and the welded seams with the POR-15. It comes out pretty good. The bumper supports were perfect, no rust at all!

Still a lot to do though. Going back on Friday. We need to start dropping the stuff off the underside of the car and then weld on sub-frame connectors. Once that's done and the POR-15 has been sprayed underneath I'll be officially rebuilding.
 

skivittlerjimb

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 20, 2003
Messages
1,440
Location
Danville, CA
Paul, are you using Chassis Coat Black for your underbody POR-15ing? The other option would be regular black color POR-15, but the chassis paint would seem to be a better option due to it's thickness and texture. Are you painting the suspenion components as well?

Also, are you going through the full procedure when you put it on (Surface rust removal -> Marine Clean -> Metal Ready -> Por-15)? Also, about how much of each of those products have you estimated the whole job will take?

Thanks in advance! This is one of my several winter projects I'll undertake once I have the rear subframe pulled.

-Jim B.
1432/2000
167k
 

cheekychimp

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 19, 2004
Messages
7,333
Location
East Sussex, U.K.
Quote:
Paul, are you using Chassis Coat Black for your underbody POR-15ing? The other option would be regular black color POR-15, but the chassis paint would seem to be a better option due to it's thickness and texture. Are you painting the suspenion components as well?

Also, are you going through the full procedure when you put it on (Surface rust removal -> Marine Clean -> Metal Ready -> Por-15)? Also, about how much of each of those products have you estimated the whole job will take?



Okay, first off I ordered 8 quarts of the standard black POR-15 and 2 quarts of chassis coat, 4 quarts each of the marine clean and solvent and 8 quarts of metal ready. I estimated this was sufficient for 2 cars as Yiuwa is hoping to do this as well. When I'm done I'll tell you what I have done and how much I used.

So far I have only used the standard POR-15, not the chassis coat. One thing I noticed from reading the literature was that the chassis coat wasn't recommended as a rust preventative but rather as a top coat since the standard POR-15 is not UV resistant. I therefore intend to do everything with the POR-15 first and then use chassis coat on areas that are exposed to sunlight (engine bay) or are likely to get a lot of abuse (skid plate). In order to keep the car quiet, I might also do a light coat of rubber underbody coating but I'm undecided on that at the moment.

As for doing the "full procedure", I did it on the fuel tank but on the chassis today we just attacked the surface with a wire brush and cleaned it down. The whole process seems to help if areas are badly rusted or oily but it doesn't seem to offer any advantage on smooth unrusted surfaces. I think the marine clean will be necessary on the underbody to remove oil.

Please use gloves with marine clean. It will strip your skin!
 
Last edited:

turboflanagan

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 5, 2001
Messages
2,571
Location
Peachtree Corners, Georgia, USA
With all the crap going on this poor car, you are going to need every performance piece you can find just so you can cruise the 1/4 at something close to stock speeds. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Oh wait, that will be the towtruck's job anyhow. My bad.


/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

cheekychimp

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 19, 2004
Messages
7,333
Location
East Sussex, U.K.
To be honest, I figure I'm going to break even ...

ABS will be pulled, 4WS will be pulled, JDM car without your 70 lbs front and rear bumper supports, carbon fibre hood and trunk, no sunroof, carbon clutch, aluminium driveshaft ...

I have a pretty good head start /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devil.gif
 

Polish

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 10, 2005
Messages
8,936
Location
NE, IN
POR15 doesn't stand up to exhaust heat very well. I was applying some on the bottom of my car and painted a little on a small rusty spot on my cat back under the axles. It is now a much different color and doesn't look like it will last to much longer. It's still there but is obviously affected by the heat.
 

cheekychimp

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 19, 2004
Messages
7,333
Location
East Sussex, U.K.
Yeah, I don't hold out much hope to be honest. I doubt that the company would offer high temp paints if their POR-15 flagship product stood up to heat okay. My header is ceramic coated, I may get the downpipe coated as well. I'll hold out on the turbo housing and external dump tube until I've tried them out and decided if they are staying. If they are, I'll let the heat strip the paint off and get them ceramic coated later.

I'm tired of waiting to be honest and don't want anymore hold ups. At this point, I just want to get the car back together again.
 
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