Brunoboy
Well-known member
I am going to install my Evo camber plates on to my evo suspension and need to know what tools i need to drill through the frame, like easiest bit and drill type. Thanks
-Shane
-Shane
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the ones who drilled for Evo Top Hats
- Thread starterBrunoboy
- Start date
I used a corded drill and ordinary high speed steel bits. The metal is about 3mm thick, so it's pretty easy to drill through, I started with a small bit (4 or 5mm I think) and then re-drilled with a larger bit to finish.
Just make sure you measure and mark (and centre punch) the holes carefully so they are the same on both sides (and in the right place).
In my case the forward edge of the camber slot (where the strut comes though, not the small bolts that secure it) is level with the front edge of the factory holes.
It looks a bit odd because the vr4's strut top holes are oval, rather than round.
That said I recommend you take your own measurements for the location of the centre of the damper shaft.
Just make sure you measure and mark (and centre punch) the holes carefully so they are the same on both sides (and in the right place).
In my case the forward edge of the camber slot (where the strut comes though, not the small bolts that secure it) is level with the front edge of the factory holes.
It looks a bit odd because the vr4's strut top holes are oval, rather than round.
That said I recommend you take your own measurements for the location of the centre of the damper shaft.
curtis
Well-known member
^What brand plates are those?
Brunoboy
Well-known member
So you didn't use the outside bolt hole as one of the mounting points? And why not?
-shaneQuoting H05TYL:
I used a corded drill and ordinary high speed steel bits. The metal is about 3mm thick, so it's pretty easy to drill through, I started with a small bit (4 or 5mm I think) and then re-drilled with a larger bit to finish.
Just make sure you measure and mark (and centre punch) the holes carefully so they are the same on both sides (and in the right place).
In my case the forward edge of the camber slot (where the strut comes though, not the small bolts that secure it) is level with the front edge of the factory holes.
It looks a bit odd because the vr4's strut top holes are oval, rather than round.
That said I recommend you take your own measurements for the location of the centre of the damper shaft.
-shaneQuoting H05TYL:
I used a corded drill and ordinary high speed steel bits. The metal is about 3mm thick, so it's pretty easy to drill through, I started with a small bit (4 or 5mm I think) and then re-drilled with a larger bit to finish.
Just make sure you measure and mark (and centre punch) the holes carefully so they are the same on both sides (and in the right place).
In my case the forward edge of the camber slot (where the strut comes though, not the small bolts that secure it) is level with the front edge of the factory holes.
It looks a bit odd because the vr4's strut top holes are oval, rather than round.
That said I recommend you take your own measurements for the location of the centre of the damper shaft.
Quoting curtis:
^What brand plates are those?
Cusco plates from an Evo 5.
I didn't use the existing outside hole as the plate wouldn't sit at the right angle for the camber slide to be perpendicular to the centreline of the vehicle, so adjusting the camber would've affected the caster as well.
^What brand plates are those?
Cusco plates from an Evo 5.
I didn't use the existing outside hole as the plate wouldn't sit at the right angle for the camber slide to be perpendicular to the centreline of the vehicle, so adjusting the camber would've affected the caster as well.
Brunoboy
Well-known member
If I ever went full coils would you be able to still use the stock holes?
fuel
Well-known member
I assume you could just find some GVR-4 specific top camber plates and hope that they will accept the shaft/spring top hat from most brand coilovers.
Brunoboy
Well-known member
thats true, its that i need the car, and one of my camber washers broke on me on the freeway the other day. I dont have time to wait for a new one and I have Tein Evo Camber Plates sitting at the house that came with my suspension. Thats why I was going to install them but I guess its not worth it.
Brunoboy
Well-known member
does that one bolt hole that i see you drilled, touch the stock bolt hole on the side?
KiNgMaRtY
Well-known member
I vote for get Galant specifics rather than drilling new holes.
Brunoboy
Well-known member
i guess my Evo Top hats are for sale
curtis
Well-known member
DIDS.....Check your PM's
Brunoboy
Well-known member
rofl, alright, PM'd back, i threw a price out there, idk what they are going for.
Brunoboy
Well-known member
i was thinking all in all that i would just get gvr4 specific because i dont want to drill into the car. Thanks for all the info and help though. its much appreciated.
-Shane
-Shane
RedTwo
Well-known member
If only we knew someone who could program up some aluminium top plates to fit Evo suspension/coil overs... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/idea.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
Brunoboy
Well-known member
yea...where would we find someone like that? lol /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
Quoting brunoboy:
i was thinking all in all that i would just get gvr4 specific because i dont want to drill into the car. Thanks for all the info and help though. its much appreciated.
-Shane
No problem, it makes sense not to drill holes in the car unless you have to.
i was thinking all in all that i would just get gvr4 specific because i dont want to drill into the car. Thanks for all the info and help though. its much appreciated.
-Shane
No problem, it makes sense not to drill holes in the car unless you have to.
curtis
Well-known member
Quoting brunoboy:
yea...where would we find someone like that? lol /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
Yea I've thought of that...Problem is I don't have a lathe. The plates are easy then the other pieces are as well but made of steel. Steel eats endmills if the feed and speed isn't perfect and I don't like cutting steel, stinks and makes a mess. On a lathe would be alot easier to do. Then there's the pillow balls that would have to be sourced out as well as hardware. When its all said and done I would have more in them than the cheap sets on ebay. I actually thought of using these on the car and may still do it.
click me
To make them work I would have to draw up the strut towers and have it water jet cut out of some thick steel. The top area of the strut towers would have to be cut off. Then these would bolt to the plates and after everything is bolted up and laid out perfect the steel plates would have to be tacked on the strut towers, then the new plates removed and then cooked in. These would give adjustment to not only the camber but the caster as well. Not that I want to be moving it an inch but a few thousandths would make sure everything is perfect when on an alignment lift.
Thing is If I decide I want to do it sometime I have a set to measure. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
yea...where would we find someone like that? lol /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif
Yea I've thought of that...Problem is I don't have a lathe. The plates are easy then the other pieces are as well but made of steel. Steel eats endmills if the feed and speed isn't perfect and I don't like cutting steel, stinks and makes a mess. On a lathe would be alot easier to do. Then there's the pillow balls that would have to be sourced out as well as hardware. When its all said and done I would have more in them than the cheap sets on ebay. I actually thought of using these on the car and may still do it.
click me
To make them work I would have to draw up the strut towers and have it water jet cut out of some thick steel. The top area of the strut towers would have to be cut off. Then these would bolt to the plates and after everything is bolted up and laid out perfect the steel plates would have to be tacked on the strut towers, then the new plates removed and then cooked in. These would give adjustment to not only the camber but the caster as well. Not that I want to be moving it an inch but a few thousandths would make sure everything is perfect when on an alignment lift.
Thing is If I decide I want to do it sometime I have a set to measure. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
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