Secrets on removing stuck rotors?

[Hondasi88]

The first side came off with alittle hammer banging......but the second is stuck. Any tips?

 

[Muskrat]

Don't use a hammer, you'll put a shock load on the wheel bearing = bad.

Get a bolt and a nut. Put the bolt through the caliper mounting hole in the hub and tighten the nut down so it's inbetween the hub and the rotor. Crank down the the bolt a few turns (holding the nut) then let off and spin the rotor a 1/8-1/4 turn. Repeat. Go slow, It'll probably take 10-15 min.

I'm assuming you're replacing the rotors, right?

 

[blacksheep]

Can't remember, but check to see if it has the small philips screw some manufacturers put on from factory. Just saying this may be why...You will need an impact screwdriver to take those off.

I have used a rubber mallet and hit the rotor at 12, 6, 3 and 9 alternatively and eventually it comes off. Similar to getting a wheel off when its being stubborn.

Good luck!

 

[Hondasi88]

Thanks for the tips and yes im replacing the rotors.

 

[RayH]

Quoting Muskrat:
Don't use a hammer, you'll put a shock load on the wheel bearing = bad.

Get a bolt and a nut. Put the bolt through the caliper mounting hole in the hub and tighten the nut down so it's inbetween the hub and the rotor. Crank down the the bolt a few turns (holding the nut) then let off and spin the rotor a 1/8-1/4 turn. Repeat. Go slow, It'll probably take 10-15 min.

I'm assuming you're replacing the rotors, right?



This method works really well.

 

[toybreaker]

Hose the rotor center and around the lugs with a penetrant like pb blaster, preferably the night before.

Put a dab of grease on the end of two 8mm x 1.25 threaded bolts.

Thread them into the two holes in the rotor untill they are snug, then give them an extra 1/8th turn.

Reasonably firmly, smack the front face of the rotor with a two pound ballpeen hammer, (using the peening end) inbetween the lugs. (if re-using the rotors, use the flat end)

Crank the bolts another 1/4 turn, and pop the rotor from the back with a dead blow as required. It helps to hit it in a clocking that is 90* to the two release bolts, rotate it 180* and repeat a few cycles before going all mcgilla the gorilla on sh*t.

Heat, if necessary, kept to a minimum will also help.

Don't just beat on the things, as they won't come off, and you will damage/brinnel the wheel bearings.

While the rotors are off, dress the outer edge of the hub flange with a flat file and be sure to clean the hub flange thoroughly, especially around the studs and hub center flange. The rotor centers up on the inner flange, so it must be clean and corrosion free to get the rotor to sit flat and centered.

This will also help them come off cleanly the next time you service the brake

If you do use the carrier as a leverage point, be sure to lube the hardware, or you will damage the caliper carrier face, and that can cause brake problems down the road.

It really is best to use two holes in the rotor, and understand the proccess. Just cranking the bolts down will strip them out before much of anything happens. Applying a schosche of tension and then smacking the assembly while it's under under tension will always remove them.

You just gotta be patient. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[grocery_getter]

Don't forget to always have the lug nuts screwed on a couple threads on the studs when fighting off a stuck brake rotor. This helps two things. One it stop the rotor from flying towards you when it does come off (just in case). Two it helps if you have a missed hammer swing that it doesn't hit the stud or the thread of the studs.

 

[Hertz]

I put some anti-seize on the face of the hub before putting rotors back on.

 

[JackbNimble]

You can do what I did /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

click
click

 

[Hondasi88]

I wish i could just crack it in half! But i'll pick up some PB blaster and the correct bolts from home depot today.

 

[JackbNimble]

Haha I took an acetylene torch to it. They were rusted to hell and back on there. I don't think they had been replaced since the car left the factory.

 

[Hondasi88]

mine are rusted on also....one side came right off the other

well we are having problems. Everything was original and old on this car so i have alot of more reading to do.

 

[a2vr4]

Are there any small threaded holes between the lug studs? If so reinstall at least two lug nuts to opposing lug studs(as a precaution against a flying rotor), find a bolt(s) that threads into the small hole(s), tighten the small bolts to put a bit of pressure on the hub then tap rotor with a hammer in a circular motion. Repeat this method in small increments, until the bond between the rotor and the hub breaks. Pm me if you have any questions, I have used this technique many times on old stuck rotors. Hope this helps!
~Brian A. Moreno

EDIT: Muskrat's point about the wheel bearing is valid, but I prefer it to using a torch, also like afore mentioned penetrating oil is your friend! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Hondasi88]

I finally got them off yesterday and yes the method above worked great! A .27 home depot bolt and nut did the trick.

The rotors looked like they were never changed even though the previous owner claimed they it was done a year ago.

 

[a2vr4]

Glad to hear it worked! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
~Brian A. Moreno

 

[wowzer]

Must be nice to have the bolt trick work. Mine snaped of flush to the rotor and started to crack it. So I resorted to the hammer method.