jepherz
Staff member
For those of you who have made a turbo drain for a stock fitting turbo, what parts did you need?
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Parts list for an AN turbo drain?
- Thread starter jepherz
- Start date
Fitting for bottom of turbo to AN size of choice (I used -8)
Straight -8 fitting
Hose-maybe 10-12" necessary
45* -8 fitting
Oil pan adapter fitting for matching size.
Straight -8 fitting
Hose-maybe 10-12" necessary
45* -8 fitting
Oil pan adapter fitting for matching size.
jepherz
Staff member
so between the straight AN fitting, and the 45* fitting, there's some flex in the hose?
Thanks Dave.
Also, for those of you who have used push lock, is there any reason not to trust it here? I just don't see how push lock fittings seal with no hose clamp.
Thanks Dave.
Also, for those of you who have used push lock, is there any reason not to trust it here? I just don't see how push lock fittings seal with no hose clamp.
turbowop
Well-known member
I used -10 on mine. There isn't much hose between the two fittings. Took a couple tries to get the measurement just right. With mine, there isn't much flex since the actual hose is so short, but there is enough flex to remove/reinstall it.
chucklesas
Well-known member
The oil pan and mitsu turbo adapters I've seen have -10 male connections on them. The -10 isn't very flexible (only about 6" of line between fittings).
Quoting jepherz:
Also, for those of you who have used push lock, is there any reason not to trust it here? I just don't see how push lock fittings seal with no hose clamp.
I used pushlok on my oil cooler hoses, on my GVR4 and on my race car. Once you install genuine pushlok hose onto the fittings, you will understand how they do not leak. Its harder than assembling AN stuff.
Also, for those of you who have used push lock, is there any reason not to trust it here? I just don't see how push lock fittings seal with no hose clamp.
I used pushlok on my oil cooler hoses, on my GVR4 and on my race car. Once you install genuine pushlok hose onto the fittings, you will understand how they do not leak. Its harder than assembling AN stuff.
+1. I've struggled and cursed and yelled a few times with pushloks. Never leaked though.
BluFalcon
Well-known member
You'll want at least -10 on the hose. -8 is a little small for the oil return. Ask me how I know. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
The setup I had on my Talon was a 45 degree -10 fitting off the bottom of the turbo with a straight into the fitting on the oil pan. The turbo I had on the car at the time was a PTE and the oil drain on the turbo was right above the engine mount bracket. With the 45 it cleared no problem. I need to make another one since I sold that one off a few years back.
The setup I had on my Talon was a 45 degree -10 fitting off the bottom of the turbo with a straight into the fitting on the oil pan. The turbo I had on the car at the time was a PTE and the oil drain on the turbo was right above the engine mount bracket. With the 45 it cleared no problem. I need to make another one since I sold that one off a few years back.
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How do you know? Seriously, I am curious.
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jepherz
Staff member
So Dave, you were able to find the adapter in -8AN?
boostedinaz
Well-known member
I believe the stock drain is 5/8. A -10 line has an inside diameter of 5/8. Really shouldn't go smaller.
chucklesas
Well-known member
Using Summit Racing parts you'd want:
Red/Blue Anodized:
-10 fitting, hose end, straight SUM-220090 $8.95
-10 fitting, hose end, 45 degree SUM-220086 $16.95
Black Anodized:
-10 fitting, hose end, straight SUM-220090B $8.95
-10 fitting, hose end, 45 degree SUM-220086B $16.95
Nickle Plated:
-10 fitting, hose end, straight SUM-221303 $8.95
-10 fitting, hose end, 45 degree SUM-221313 $14.95
Shortest hose I could find in -10 was 3ft (you only need about 6-8 inches, at least that what I keep telling myself
):
-10 Stainless Steel Braided Hose SUM-230003 $19.95
2 ea. Extreme PSI Billet Aluminum Turbo Oil Drain Adapters PSI-FLG-MIT 2 x $24.00
(I found a Russel's fitting for the T25, T28, TO3 turbos on Summit, but wasn't sure if that would be compatible with the Mitsubishi oil pan drain and turbo outlets)
Or you can just buy the kit from Extreme PSI or Slowboy for about $90-$100
Edit: Forgot Mitsu drain gaskets, $2.00 ea.
Red/Blue Anodized:
-10 fitting, hose end, straight SUM-220090 $8.95
-10 fitting, hose end, 45 degree SUM-220086 $16.95
Black Anodized:
-10 fitting, hose end, straight SUM-220090B $8.95
-10 fitting, hose end, 45 degree SUM-220086B $16.95
Nickle Plated:
-10 fitting, hose end, straight SUM-221303 $8.95
-10 fitting, hose end, 45 degree SUM-221313 $14.95
Shortest hose I could find in -10 was 3ft (you only need about 6-8 inches, at least that what I keep telling myself
): -10 Stainless Steel Braided Hose SUM-230003 $19.95
2 ea. Extreme PSI Billet Aluminum Turbo Oil Drain Adapters PSI-FLG-MIT 2 x $24.00
(I found a Russel's fitting for the T25, T28, TO3 turbos on Summit, but wasn't sure if that would be compatible with the Mitsubishi oil pan drain and turbo outlets)
Or you can just buy the kit from Extreme PSI or Slowboy for about $90-$100
Edit: Forgot Mitsu drain gaskets, $2.00 ea.
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jepherz
Staff member
Hey Charles, thanks for the part numbers. Do you have the part numbers on those summit fittings for the turbo? I'll probably just weld an AN fitting on the tank so I don't have to worry about gaskets there.
chucklesas
Well-known member
jepherz
Staff member
Thanks. That Russell part looks sweet. o-rings are definitely what to use. I'm going to try and find some dimensions.
Quoting BluFalcon:
You'll want at least -10 on the hose. -8 is a little small for the oil return. Ask me how I know. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
The setup I had on my Talon was a 45 degree -10 fitting off the bottom of the turbo with a straight into the fitting on the oil pan. The turbo I had on the car at the time was a PTE and the oil drain on the turbo was right above the engine mount bracket. With the 45 it cleared no problem. I need to make another one since I sold that one off a few years back.
This is what I'm doing with mine. I'm excited, hopefully zero leaks and no rtv sloppy mess. Only difference is I have the moroso pan and I had a -10 male fitting welded on. Fittings are xrp push lock, straight at the pan and 45* angle at the center cartridge with an adapter I got from STM.
As for clamps, if you are nervous you can purchase those special clamps that you need special pliers to get them on and off or you can just use traditional worm clamps. I see a lot of people don't even use clamps with push lock or "barbed" fittings. Once they grab the rubber on the inside they are next to impossible to pull off. You have to cut the hose. Here are the clamps.
You'll want at least -10 on the hose. -8 is a little small for the oil return. Ask me how I know. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
The setup I had on my Talon was a 45 degree -10 fitting off the bottom of the turbo with a straight into the fitting on the oil pan. The turbo I had on the car at the time was a PTE and the oil drain on the turbo was right above the engine mount bracket. With the 45 it cleared no problem. I need to make another one since I sold that one off a few years back.
This is what I'm doing with mine. I'm excited, hopefully zero leaks and no rtv sloppy mess. Only difference is I have the moroso pan and I had a -10 male fitting welded on. Fittings are xrp push lock, straight at the pan and 45* angle at the center cartridge with an adapter I got from STM.
As for clamps, if you are nervous you can purchase those special clamps that you need special pliers to get them on and off or you can just use traditional worm clamps. I see a lot of people don't even use clamps with push lock or "barbed" fittings. Once they grab the rubber on the inside they are next to impossible to pull off. You have to cut the hose. Here are the clamps.
Here's what I did with mine.
1) Cut the factory tube just past the bend coming up from the pan.
2) Get a -10 oil drain fitting click me
3) Get a -10 push lock hose click me sold by the foot (you'll use less)
4) Oil drain gasket click me
5) One -10 fitting male on end & barb on next.
6) Two worm clamps to clamp the hose on each end.
Most cost effective way I've found. There are other flashier ways of getting it done as stated in other posts.
EDIT: You'll need to notch the front bracket as well Terry's car again for ref
1) Cut the factory tube just past the bend coming up from the pan.
2) Get a -10 oil drain fitting click me
3) Get a -10 push lock hose click me sold by the foot (you'll use less)
4) Oil drain gasket click me
5) One -10 fitting male on end & barb on next.
6) Two worm clamps to clamp the hose on each end.
Most cost effective way I've found. There are other flashier ways of getting it done as stated in other posts.
EDIT: You'll need to notch the front bracket as well Terry's car again for ref
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CarRacer
Well-known member
I went to that setup on my car.
I have a -10 braided line setup sitting on my shelf that I sent a PM about to jepherz.
I have a -10 braided line setup sitting on my shelf that I sent a PM about to jepherz.
atc250r
Staff member
Quoting jepherz:
stock fitting turbo
Is it a direct replacement like a 16G or is it a bolt on aftermarket? My PTE bolt on required a couple of 45* fittings to clear the front motor mount.
John
stock fitting turbo
Is it a direct replacement like a 16G or is it a bolt on aftermarket? My PTE bolt on required a couple of 45* fittings to clear the front motor mount.
John
BluFalcon
Well-known member
What boostedinaz basically said. My first oil return line was made with -8 and wasn't big enough for the volume of oil I had going into the turbo. Everytime I went WOT, I got a nice James Bond style smokescreen behind me. Went with a -10 line and car stopped smoking.
Quoting iceman69510:
How do you know? Seriously, I am curious.
Quoting iceman69510:
How do you know? Seriously, I am curious.
