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Oil drain tube replacement

turboflanagan

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Joined
Mar 5, 2001
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2,571
Location
Peachtree Corners, Georgia, USA
I found my oil drain tube pissing oil. Must be cracked in the "flex" section because it is all dry above that.

I'm not too keen on just putting another 20+ year old part on there.

I have not bought any aftermarket parts for this thing in quite a while. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

What good replacement drain tubes are on the market now? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif Stock oil pan and 16g turbo.
 

EMX5636

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Joined
Jun 28, 2008
Messages
1,631
Location
Bucks County, PA
I think for a while I was using 2G stock return lines. They are an updated style that doesn't tend to crack at the flex. Last I checked, JNZ Tuning still stocked them. Only difference is you need to slot the upper bolt holes a bit, as 2G ran a Garrett center section, instead of MHI/Mitsu. Holes are just a bit closer together on a MHI. Just a Dremel and a stock gasket to mark/test fit and they work perfectly. Much cheaper than the 1G replacement as well ($30 compared to $70), but both appear still available.
 
Last edited:

pot

Staff member
Joined
Oct 28, 2003
Messages
1,573
Location
Fayetteville, NC
I would consider replacing it with the OEM unit from say jnztuning and calling it a day. Most problems I see with the oem unit is people often fail to support the turbo when performing service in effect placing great strain on the drain line which causes it to crack and leak oil.

However if your adamant I see two options:

- Forced Performance makes a great drain line

- A custom line with AN fittings and stainless line
 

CutlassJim

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Joined
Jul 17, 2006
Messages
1,698
Location
Manchester, NH
People get all horny for the braided replacements but I'mnot a fan of the price.And the fact that the factory one lasted 20 years and 200k miles makes me just want to run one. All I did with mine though is cut out the flex section and replace it with Aeroquip pushlock hose. Has worked great and leak free for 8 years now.
 

89Mirageman

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Joined
Jul 5, 2006
Messages
2,502
Location
Stantonsburg, NC
I've also had luck just reusing the ends that mount to the pan/turbo and finding a quality rubber hose with the same bend. I even went as far as welding a bead on each end with my Mig welder. Then I purchased some smooth clamps, the ones that don't dig into the rubber. Some may scoff at this but it was quick and easy and I never had an issue.
 

tektic

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Joined
Dec 19, 2012
Messages
1,497
Location
ronkonkoma, ny
Can anyone point to a good comparison of hose material and how it reacts with oil, coolant or other substances?
 

turbohf

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Joined
Nov 18, 2011
Messages
540
Location
Lake Stevens, WA
when i put the 2.4 in my car i noticed the flex leaking. so i used some oil/fuel grade hose i got from Napa. also used the same stuff on my CRX when i put the 14b on it. both cars worked very well with it. so i bought some more for the new turbo kit.

just dont use water/heater hose, its temporary at best.
 

turboflanagan

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Mar 5, 2001
Messages
2,571
Location
Peachtree Corners, Georgia, USA
Thanks guys! All great suggestions. I have ordered a new drain tube from JNZ, which I didn't find yesterday prior to posting.

Anybody want to come over and pull my HVAC box out? I really don't want to pull the dash again... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif I had to park it outside for a season and apparently rodents got in there and pissed in my HVAC box. It really reeks anytime I turn the blower on. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif
 

pot

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Oct 28, 2003
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1,573
Location
Fayetteville, NC
Believe it or not, its not really that bad. Once you remove the glove box, HVAC under tray panel, and the side console box panel everything is right there. Four maybe seven nuts at the most and its out. However, if you wind up replacing the heater core too, then I strongly recommend removing the dashboard which isn't difficult but is time consuming.
 

prove_it

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Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
Quoting 89Mirageman:
I've also had luck just reusing the ends that mount to the pan/turbo and finding a quality rubber hose with the same bend. I even went as far as welding a bead on each end with my Mig welder. Then I purchased some smooth clamps, the ones that don't dig into the rubber. Some may scoff at this but it was quick and easy and I never had an issue.




This. Fastest, cheapest, easiest way to repair this issue. Works great.
 

holeshotmoe

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Joined
Apr 7, 2005
Messages
1,291
Location
MD
^^Just replaced my "heater hose" oil drain after 3-4 years because it started to leak a little bit where the worm-gear clamps began to cut into the rubber. Yeah, I know I should replace it every 1-2 years. But the point is, even with the exposure to heat from the non-stock manifold and DP, it is daily driven and lasted a long time.
 
Last edited:

turbohf

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Nov 18, 2011
Messages
540
Location
Lake Stevens, WA
wow. surprised that the heater hose lasted that long. always seem to look shitty on me pretty quick.
 

holeshotmoe

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Apr 7, 2005
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Location
MD
It's definitely not optimum, but it worked for a couple years. I think it lasts because it does not move and is not under pressure. But as evidenced when flexing, after that long near the heat it did take some damage...

 

prove_it

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Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
Plus heater hose isn't rated for petroleum, so the oil was eating at it. Get some hydraulic hose rated for oil and your good.
 

FlyingEagle

Staff member
Joined
Mar 5, 2005
Messages
1,635
Location
THE Ottawa
Get a sleeve of high temp fibreglass/aluminum like they put over spark plug wires and such that sit near the exhaust manifolds.

There is stuff out there, and some of it has snaps already in place to allow easy removal when it deteriorates. Sometimes this is put over steering u-joints in the engine bay.... saw this on some trucks or jeeps or some such not that long ago.

Hydraulic hose would do it, but finding a clamp that actually compresses it well could be interesting. Small clamps can't take much torque before they overcome the maximum yield of the base material and let loose.

If two ends were used and were push lock, then you would be set for a while.

Stock or push lock would be my choice ...or anything that doesn't leak like mine at the fitting with it's second new gasket and the two small crush washers in place. Sigh. Slow enough I don't care for now ...
 

turbohf

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Joined
Nov 18, 2011
Messages
540
Location
Lake Stevens, WA
i used spring clamps on the FP Red oil drain. worked just fine. but i think i put a light coating of Hondabond on the pipes before sliding them in also.

IMG_20150922_182133_zps6wxxmiq8.jpg

the FP Red drain. been on the car for 2.5 years i think. thats with DD here and there, not JSB time.

IMG_20150922_191925_zpspsvpknyv.jpg

pretty sure this is the same stuff but this is 3/4 for the T67. think the stock pipe was 5/8. but that part number should help you or your parts guy track it down?
 

turboflanagan

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Joined
Mar 5, 2001
Messages
2,571
Location
Peachtree Corners, Georgia, USA
I still get a sick feeling in my stomach from losing oil in my '84 turbo Colt while cruising down the highway.

If you guys are using hose on this drain tube, please, please get fuel/oil hose. Pressure or no pressure, that thing can dump all your oil in no time and make your engine sound like a single A high school drum line quicker than you can say "Oh sh*t!!"
 
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