I used the info that I got From Pivvay, as far as porting the oil filter housing out. I also cut 1.5 coils out of the relief valve spring. My pressure is allot more manageable, around 75 psi tops. If anyone is taking out BS this mod is a must, and will save you a bunch of trouble. But during my test sections of launching /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gifsomething popped in my trans /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif. So before I go to Des Moines I have to get that taken care of. But thanks again Pivvay, Chris
The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource
Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey. Login to browse without most ads.
-
Site is running on a new server - report any errors here
Hertz, you can change my member status to Senior Member now. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Really glad it worked for you. I haven't heard anyone cut coils out. Did you do that to increase the opening travel of the plunger? Did it have any affect on idle pressure? Judging by the fact that you still have 75psi max pressure I'm guessing it didn't but I was curious.
No, it didn't change the idle at all. Still at a steady 20 psi. Thanks for all the help man. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif Also, thanks to whomever changed my member status. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Pictures are in the other thread. If you can't find them click on Boostin's name and then "show all threads by poster" or something like that. You'll find the link.
powerplay
Well-known member
As a follow up to this thread. I installed an oil pressure gauge this weekend and found similar results to Boostin'. I have 20psi at 800 rpms, fully warmed up. At 60mph, in 5th, I have 80psi and it easily climbs to 100psi if accelerating. Thanks to Boostin' and Chris for bringing to light. I will be pulling off the housing and doing the mod. to bring the pressure back down.
what exactly did you use to block off the oil holes ?
did you use 2 bearings front & back & rotate ?
or one bearing in the back & the cap from a 4g61 ( # mf665543 ) ?
Quote:
I used the info that I got From Pivvay, as far as porting the oil filter housing out. I also cut 1.5 coils out of the relief valve spring. My pressure is allot more manageable, around 75 psi tops. If anyone is taking out BS this mod is a must, and will save you a bunch of trouble. But during my test sections of launching /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gifsomething popped in my trans /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif. So before I go to Des Moines I have to get that taken care of. But thanks again Pivvay, Chris
did you use 2 bearings front & back & rotate ?
or one bearing in the back & the cap from a 4g61 ( # mf665543 ) ?
Quote:
I used the info that I got From Pivvay, as far as porting the oil filter housing out. I also cut 1.5 coils out of the relief valve spring. My pressure is allot more manageable, around 75 psi tops. If anyone is taking out BS this mod is a must, and will save you a bunch of trouble. But during my test sections of launching /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gifsomething popped in my trans /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif. So before I go to Des Moines I have to get that taken care of. But thanks again Pivvay, Chris
I just wanted to thank you guys for posting the information on this issue. I had been driving around happy as a clam with high oil pressure not knowing it was a potential problem.
This weekend I drilled out the return port using a 15/32 drill, which gives 85% additional flow area and is about same size hole as the inlet and outlet to the oil cooler lines. While it dropped oil pressure some, I still get 75 psig at 3000 RPM and am hitting close to 100 psig when I run the motor on up. So I'm thinking now I am running too heavy a grade of oil, 20W50. I may try a lighter weight oil. If that doesn't do it, I guess I'll try porting it again with a bigger hole.
Mike R.
This weekend I drilled out the return port using a 15/32 drill, which gives 85% additional flow area and is about same size hole as the inlet and outlet to the oil cooler lines. While it dropped oil pressure some, I still get 75 psig at 3000 RPM and am hitting close to 100 psig when I run the motor on up. So I'm thinking now I am running too heavy a grade of oil, 20W50. I may try a lighter weight oil. If that doesn't do it, I guess I'll try porting it again with a bigger hole.
Mike R.
powerplay
Well-known member
During the DSG BBQ yesterday, we had the opportunity (not planned) to pull the oil filter housing and port out the bypass hole. We opened it up and now our oil pressure is 64-65 psi at the same rpm as what was 80. Thanks again Chris for letting us know about this problem and how to fix it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/worthy.gif
Telecaster
Well-known member
How much did you guys take off in comparison with:
http://www.utdsm.org/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=album12
I just freakin killed my t04b-h3 last night /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif. I was doing 3rd gear pulls at 1.5 bar. Then on my last run, it sounded like a ic pipe popped off. All this white smoke came out the exhaust. Took off the intake hose and found that the blades rubbed against the housing. Oil was all over the blades. I just removed my balancer shafts 2 weeks ago also and it was my first time to try these boost levels. The turbo oil was fed from the filter housing. I was reading in other forums that high oil pressure stresses out the turbo. I either should have bought a oil restrictor or have ported the relief port.
My turbo was less than 6 months old and i should have got the extra warranty /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bawling.gif.
http://www.utdsm.org/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=album12
I just freakin killed my t04b-h3 last night /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif. I was doing 3rd gear pulls at 1.5 bar. Then on my last run, it sounded like a ic pipe popped off. All this white smoke came out the exhaust. Took off the intake hose and found that the blades rubbed against the housing. Oil was all over the blades. I just removed my balancer shafts 2 weeks ago also and it was my first time to try these boost levels. The turbo oil was fed from the filter housing. I was reading in other forums that high oil pressure stresses out the turbo. I either should have bought a oil restrictor or have ported the relief port.
My turbo was less than 6 months old and i should have got the extra warranty /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bawling.gif.
Last edited:
atc250r
Staff member
Mine is most like this pic:
I haven't installed it yet but I'm hoping to do that and the 1990 cooler at the same time today.
John
I haven't installed it yet but I'm hoping to do that and the 1990 cooler at the same time today.
John
powerplay
Well-known member
Ours looks very much like John's except we went a little further in the 8:00 direction in the picture. We exposed more in the direction of the valve opening. Ours will expose the top edge of the piston sooner upon compression. I hope that makes sense.
Mine came out just like the picture posted by John/atc250r. Pressure is relieved some at cold startup but still pulling high pressure at high rpm's.
Mike R.
Mike R.
in reading this it seems that most of you guys have pulled the BS. i still have mine in and can easily get 80-100 PSI. does this only affect those you without BS's?
powerplay
Well-known member
Are you seeing that oil pressure when the car is at normal operating temperature? What RPM is the engine running when you see those pressures? The oil galleys to feed the front BS are plugged which increases oil pressure. By porting the bypass opening we reduced our pressure 15 psi at the same RPM/Temperature. Does anyone know what the OEM specification is for oil pressure at 3K RPMs and normal operating temperature?
An old rule-of-thumb for minimum oil pressure is 10psi for every 1000 rpm. I can't say 100% that applies to our cars, but it has to be close.
powerplay
Well-known member
Thanks Jeff. The idle pressure at normal op. temps. is 20 where it should be. This mod. doesn't have any effect on that. I did find a spec. for the oil system which is 10cm3 (.61cu") per rev. But that is more of a volume spec. than pressure. Anybody know how to convert that to a pressure reading at 3K rpms.? People who have stock filter housings, balance shafts and pressure gauges, let us know what you have for pressure at normal operating temperatures with 10/30W or 10/40W oil. It would be nice to know what the target pressure is supposed to be.
Quote:
An old rule-of-thumb for minimum oil pressure is 10psi for every 1000 rpm. I can't say 100% that applies to our cars, but it has to be close.
Seems to make sense on our cars as well. The bypass is supposed to open about 75psi (roughly) 75psi = 7500rpm = just about our redline.
For those running 8k rpms+ I'm not sure if you want the oil pressure to keep rising or not. I'd guess ~75psi is more than sufficient.
An old rule-of-thumb for minimum oil pressure is 10psi for every 1000 rpm. I can't say 100% that applies to our cars, but it has to be close.
Seems to make sense on our cars as well. The bypass is supposed to open about 75psi (roughly) 75psi = 7500rpm = just about our redline.
For those running 8k rpms+ I'm not sure if you want the oil pressure to keep rising or not. I'd guess ~75psi is more than sufficient.
powerplay
Well-known member
In my searching around today, I found the spec. on the bypass valve is 78 psi which confirms your statement of approximately 75 psi. I am still trying to find out what it should be from the factory for normal pressure.
