vr4768
Well-known member
Does anyone know exactly how much oil the VR-4 takes for an oil change?
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Oil changes
- Thread startervr4768
- Start date
EHmotorsports
Well-known member
5 works for me. If your worried about over filling. Fill it with 4 and run it for 5 min. Then let it set for 10 min. Check and top off as needed.
It's been a long time since I changed mine, but not sure why 5.5 qt. stands out (it's probably 5 as mentioned)...May be aware of this already, but was going to suggest though to put some of that oil in the filter and smear on some fresh oil on the seal before (hand) tightening.
EHmotorsports
Well-known member
JNR may be right about the 5.5 if you have an oil cooler. i dont have one at the moment and realized mine came with one before starting my project.
turbowop
Well-known member
I find that it's 4 quarts if you don't change the filter, 4.5 if you do.
Hmmm, guess it has been awhile then, lol...Do you think a decent amount (say 1/4 to 1/2 qt.) is "stuck" in the turbo lines still? Just wondering. I mean, just sounds so low, but guess these are pretty small engines, but you'd think being a turbo it'd be more. Anyhow, it is what it is, but can't recall the amount (sad), but will look in my notes. I don't have an external cooler, fwiw.
EHmotorsports
Well-known member
do not run it while draining. get the engine warmed up and drain the oil while it hot.
Mac
Well-known member
Quoting se7enine:
I always ran my 4runner for a few seconds to flush out the oil during the drain, would that be recommended for a turbo motor?
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jawdrop.gif
I always ran my 4runner for a few seconds to flush out the oil during the drain, would that be recommended for a turbo motor?
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jawdrop.gif
With the bearing orifices, etc. being so small on the turbo, not sure I'd want to flush it, in case something gets dislodged.
I normally don't recommend it on any engine, but would especially be wary on a turbo...I did recently do one on my LS engine (N/A) with good results and it seemed to help, but it has really low miles and is generally pretty "clean". But, being it has such low miles (for being 9 years old now almost), I figured it had either sat a long time, or was not driven enough to really warm things up. I'll probably do it again, fwiw, on that car a couple more times, but just not on my VR-4 ever.
One thing I didn't like about it though was you had to run the engine for like 15 minutes while it circulated.
I wouldn't drain the engine while it's running though UNLESS you are adding oil as it's going (messy though) to keep the level up..problem there is syn oil is fricken $$$ these days, so not so sure I'd do it anyway.
I normally don't recommend it on any engine, but would especially be wary on a turbo...I did recently do one on my LS engine (N/A) with good results and it seemed to help, but it has really low miles and is generally pretty "clean". But, being it has such low miles (for being 9 years old now almost), I figured it had either sat a long time, or was not driven enough to really warm things up. I'll probably do it again, fwiw, on that car a couple more times, but just not on my VR-4 ever.
One thing I didn't like about it though was you had to run the engine for like 15 minutes while it circulated.
I wouldn't drain the engine while it's running though UNLESS you are adding oil as it's going (messy though) to keep the level up..problem there is syn oil is fricken $$$ these days, so not so sure I'd do it anyway.
5OF2k
Well-known member
NEVER run an engine with the oil drain out, and NEVER let it drain 100% unless you have it out on a stand for dis-assembly/rebuilding purposes. Lack of oil in the bearing journals and surfaces is the number one cause for bearing wear, and can cause SERIOUS damage.
Car should be at normal operating temperature when the oil is changed, and especially on turbo cars, you should be pouring some oil into the fresh filter before installing it, as well as using a filter that has an anti-drain back valve(OEM, K&N, some Mobil1 filters/etc). Without the filter having oil in it on initial start-up, there is a moment when you have ZERO oil pressure, and thats where the damage occurs.
It's also a good idea to disable the spark, and crank the car until your oil pressure light goes out immediately after an oil change. This will ensure the filter is full of oil, and all of the bearings are safe. Doing this is the best way to make certain your bearings are safe and sound. Especially on turbo cars.
Once you've drained the oil, replaced the filter, re-filled the oil(typically to 1/2 qt to 1qt below max level), primed the engine, it should be started and left at idle for 30-45 seconds, and then turned off. Then, let the vehicle sit for 3-5 minutes(VERY good time to check the rest of your fluid levels and conditions, filter cleanliness, belt and hose conditions/etc), and check your oil level/top off as needed.
This is the procedure coming from a technician who has worked in the field for more than 10 years. This is how I've always done it, and it's never let me down.
Hope that helps!
-Jake
Car should be at normal operating temperature when the oil is changed, and especially on turbo cars, you should be pouring some oil into the fresh filter before installing it, as well as using a filter that has an anti-drain back valve(OEM, K&N, some Mobil1 filters/etc). Without the filter having oil in it on initial start-up, there is a moment when you have ZERO oil pressure, and thats where the damage occurs.
It's also a good idea to disable the spark, and crank the car until your oil pressure light goes out immediately after an oil change. This will ensure the filter is full of oil, and all of the bearings are safe. Doing this is the best way to make certain your bearings are safe and sound. Especially on turbo cars.
Once you've drained the oil, replaced the filter, re-filled the oil(typically to 1/2 qt to 1qt below max level), primed the engine, it should be started and left at idle for 30-45 seconds, and then turned off. Then, let the vehicle sit for 3-5 minutes(VERY good time to check the rest of your fluid levels and conditions, filter cleanliness, belt and hose conditions/etc), and check your oil level/top off as needed.
This is the procedure coming from a technician who has worked in the field for more than 10 years. This is how I've always done it, and it's never let me down.
Hope that helps!
-Jake
yeah, I try to drain it (engine off of course) with it "warmed up", but crap does that oil get hot and especially trying to spin off the filter by hand, lol. Oil certainly flows a lot easier hot, that's for sure...Worst thing though when it's hot is wearing like mechanix gloves as those don't keep the oil from going thru and nothing like hot oil in between, ha ha.
EHmotorsports
Well-known member
I agree with 5of2k for cars that have sat for months/years or are on the first start up after a rebuild. But if you just drained the oil you will be fine if you put oil in it and start it up to let the oil cycle and warm up. its not rocket science just an oil change. also coming from a guy that has been working for BMW for over 10 years.
and to defuse any possible future misunderstandings i mean this in no offensive way.
and to defuse any possible future misunderstandings i mean this in no offensive way.
EHmotorsports
Well-known member
Haha yup the reason I work on them and don't own one
turbowop
Well-known member
Quoting 5OF2k:
Car should be at normal operating temperature when the oil is changed, and especially on turbo cars, you should be pouring some oil into the fresh filter before installing it, as well as using a filter that has an anti-drain back valve(OEM, K&N, some Mobil1 filters/etc). Without the filter having oil in it on initial start-up, there is a moment when you have ZERO oil pressure, and thats where the damage occurs.
It's also a good idea to disable the spark, and crank the car until your oil pressure light goes out immediately after an oil change. This will ensure the filter is full of oil, and all of the bearings are safe. Doing this is the best way to make certain your bearings are safe and sound. Especially on turbo cars.
Holy sh*t dude. It's just an oil change. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif All I do is drain the oil, R&R the filter with a new one, fill it up with oil and fire it up. Never had an issue.
Car should be at normal operating temperature when the oil is changed, and especially on turbo cars, you should be pouring some oil into the fresh filter before installing it, as well as using a filter that has an anti-drain back valve(OEM, K&N, some Mobil1 filters/etc). Without the filter having oil in it on initial start-up, there is a moment when you have ZERO oil pressure, and thats where the damage occurs.
It's also a good idea to disable the spark, and crank the car until your oil pressure light goes out immediately after an oil change. This will ensure the filter is full of oil, and all of the bearings are safe. Doing this is the best way to make certain your bearings are safe and sound. Especially on turbo cars.
Holy sh*t dude. It's just an oil change. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif All I do is drain the oil, R&R the filter with a new one, fill it up with oil and fire it up. Never had an issue.
mitsuturbo
Well-known member
For initial startup on a new engine, sure. Not for routine oil changes.
turbowop
Well-known member
Word. Anytime you drain the oil pump of all oil due to balance shaft elimination or a new engine build, it needs to be packed with grease so that it can be primed for first startup. Which would necessitate all those extra steps. But with just an oil change, the pump is still full of oil. No need for all the extra work, IMO.
On a new engine (or probably if it's been sitting a long time), just prime the oil pump using a tool to turn the camshaft (and in turn the rest of the engine) and use "break in" grease on the camshaft (maybe that's more for flat tappet vs. roller type though), if it's new.
I remember seeing a way to 'spin' these engines manually in a similar fashion, but forgot the procedure and would like to find it so I can prime it before starting it again (it's been sitting a long time!).
But yeah for an oil change, just drain it (agree warm is best), put some oil in the filter and have fun. Have a lot of paper towels on hand, as well as some cat litter, as it *always* seems to happen oil gets somewhere, lol.
I remember seeing a way to 'spin' these engines manually in a similar fashion, but forgot the procedure and would like to find it so I can prime it before starting it again (it's been sitting a long time!).
But yeah for an oil change, just drain it (agree warm is best), put some oil in the filter and have fun. Have a lot of paper towels on hand, as well as some cat litter, as it *always* seems to happen oil gets somewhere, lol.
5OF2k
Well-known member
Quoting turbowop:
Quoting 5OF2k:
Car should be at normal operating temperature when the oil is changed, and especially on turbo cars, you should be pouring some oil into the fresh filter before installing it, as well as using a filter that has an anti-drain back valve(OEM, K&N, some Mobil1 filters/etc). Without the filter having oil in it on initial start-up, there is a moment when you have ZERO oil pressure, and thats where the damage occurs.
It's also a good idea to disable the spark, and crank the car until your oil pressure light goes out immediately after an oil change. This will ensure the filter is full of oil, and all of the bearings are safe. Doing this is the best way to make certain your bearings are safe and sound. Especially on turbo cars.
Holy sh*t dude. It's just an oil change. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif All I do is drain the oil, R&R the filter with a new one, fill it up with oil and fire it up. Never had an issue.
Cool man, and Im sure so have millions and trillions of other people. That's the factory trained technicians way of doing it, FWIW.
Take it how you want it, being a stickler wont hurt anything, and its not even close to a pain to pour a little oil in the filter before you put it on.... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bawling.gif
Quoting 5OF2k:
Car should be at normal operating temperature when the oil is changed, and especially on turbo cars, you should be pouring some oil into the fresh filter before installing it, as well as using a filter that has an anti-drain back valve(OEM, K&N, some Mobil1 filters/etc). Without the filter having oil in it on initial start-up, there is a moment when you have ZERO oil pressure, and thats where the damage occurs.
It's also a good idea to disable the spark, and crank the car until your oil pressure light goes out immediately after an oil change. This will ensure the filter is full of oil, and all of the bearings are safe. Doing this is the best way to make certain your bearings are safe and sound. Especially on turbo cars.
Holy sh*t dude. It's just an oil change. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif All I do is drain the oil, R&R the filter with a new one, fill it up with oil and fire it up. Never had an issue.
Cool man, and Im sure so have millions and trillions of other people. That's the factory trained technicians way of doing it, FWIW.
Take it how you want it, being a stickler wont hurt anything, and its not even close to a pain to pour a little oil in the filter before you put it on.... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bawling.gif
