Kiggly Girdle Install

[Lonewolf64]

I'm really into looking a Kiggly girdle for my build and my question is about when its installed, what has to change to accomodate it? Considering how thick it is, does the position of oil pickup line have to be changed? Also, will regular length head studs reach down to leave enough thread for the oil pan?

 

Ok, oil pickup does not change, just cut off the support bracket that goes to the main stud. Use arp main studs instead of stock. You will need to get the main line honed with the girdle installed and torqued. You need 3 oil pan gaskets, hondabond them together to make 1 thick gasket. The arp nut won't clear the pan unless you beat the sh*t out of it so I just made a thick gasket/spacer as described above and it has not leaked a drop. That's pretty much it.

 

[Lonewolf64]

Ok, another question that I think would be ok to ask here would be about whether or not I should even include a kiggly in my build. Is it overkill? I haven't decided on the internals 100% yet but I'm wavering between a JE/eagle combo or a JE/Brian Crower combo (pistons/rods).

What would be a better choice of internals? This would go together with a fresh stock head (for now) and stay on a Evo3 16g for a few years. Soon after, the head will be rebuilt to rev high and it will be paired with a GT30 series turbo like the FP3052.

 

[Andy_S]

A lot of power has been made reliably without a kiggly girdle. How high you planning to rev?

 

[Lonewolf64]

Initially, only the bottom end is getting built due to money constraints. I think within a years time, I'll build the cylinder head. Once I have done that, I would like to be able to freely rev to 9,000rpm or so. Within a year or so of building the cylinder head, I'm going to be in the market for a FP3052 or similar turbo. Until then, I will be running my evo3 16g and pushing it as high as it can go.

 

[3rdstrikedsm]

You don't need a girdle to run 9k rpm.
Another option is building 98-99 7 bolt with the 2 piece thrust so crankwalk is not an issue and the 7 bolt has a girdle already.

 

[Barnes]

Lol wut? Someone *actually* figured out what causes crankwalk and found a fix??

 

[3rdstrikedsm]

My next engine will be a 7 bolt for sure for that exact reason, I am sure that will open the floodgates to a debate but that is just personal preference I guess.

 

[Barnes]

Well. I really don't have anything against the 7-bolt other than CW.

I just didn't know they ever figured it out. Pretty awesome if they did.

 

[3rdstrikedsm]

98-99's dont cw anymore than a six bolt would, The 98-99 is the same basic thing as an evo 8-9 lower end.

 

[slugsgomoo]

yep, thrust bearing in a 98-99 & evo is more like a 6 bolt with the two piece thrust bearing, not to mention it's simply put together less sloppily than the older 7 bolt stuff. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

supposedly there's an advantage from the headstuds as well. Even though they're 1mm smaller, they go much deeper into the block.

 

[Dialcaliper]

Noone has pointed out that you will need to do some minor grinding on the block to get the girdle to fit - instructions are on Kiggly's website.

The head studs threading in deeper doesn't make a huge difference, since only 3-4 threads take almost all of the load on the bolt, unless you actually yield either the stud or the block, both of which are bad. This is why a nut is can take just as much load as a threaded hole. A deeper hole just lets you align the bolt/stud a little better. Any advantage it does provide is minor compared to a larger thread or a stronger stud material.

The reason Mitsu went to smaller 11mm bolts is so that they could use torque-to-yield fasteners with the same preload as a 12mm bolt and a less expensive alloy. They also engage more than 3-4 threads on the block, something that normal fasteners or even ARP studs do not do, which means that on a 7-bolt, the stock bolts are actually less likely to rip out of the block than ARP's even though they will run out of preload sooner (meaning that the head will lift). Mostly a cost issue (heat treated bolts aren't cheap from a manufacturer's standpoint - Example, OEM replacement fasteners can be had for $33 for the 7 bolt compared to $40 for the 6-bolt Even if it only costs half that to the factory, $3.50 per car is significant when you're selling millions of vehicles)