Number 638, after *THREE* years is finally back!

When you click the pic, you can zoom in. I took the pics with a 6 megapixel digicam so you can see the welds pretty well.

 

[464/2K]

that muffler has wayyyy too much tip, cut it down a bit. other then that it looks nice!

 

We'll be pushing it back. I still have the hangers to adjust.

Again, most everything thats being fabbed, is in the mock-up stage, to make sure fitment is good.

 

That weldder is a TIG too my dad has the same one I thought it was only stick and MIG

 

yeah, I'm using the TIG process. High-frequency starting is great, but the huge extra box is pretty bulky, and dated. I hope to gain a newer TIG welder with foot control soon.

 

I just wanted to post documentation of what I have spent thus far.

This is the wrecked crank. Can't even run a fingernail across the journal w/o stopping it multiple times.


Bearings are obviously wrecked, and were never replaced despite getting charged for a "Rebuild". Look at the heat on the rod bearings.


One of the leaking Main seals.


My heart sank when I got this, and got charged $150 for the toggle switch.
The tech, who has 15 years experience racing GVR4s and Talons in Scca Rally, told me I could've bought an Evo.


I never got the Streetlite flywheel, just a stocker. I guess the previous owner wanted the flywheel to blow up on me too. /ubbthreads/images//graemlins/dunno.gif


I had to buy another block because the blown up one that came with the car had stress cracks everywhere.


Even as assistant manager, I still had to pay a gang of money to make this thing right again.


And another one...


And yet another. This is just the documented money spent, not any club transactions, or ebay.

 

[CP]

Quote:
I'm about to put an aluminum Koyo in the Laser because I am going to autocross it and I don't want to have to worry.



Save your money and put it towards good autox tires instead. Just wire your fans to a switch and turn them on when the car gets hot. A real coolant temp gauge helps monitor temp. I have had ZERO problems with running hot after I wired in a switch, and turn the fans on for all of my 25 minute lapping sessions. I have a Radiator Barn stock replacement unit filled with distilled water and water wetter.

 

[Polish]

Quote:
I just wanted to post documentation of what I have spent thus far.



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/ubbthreads/images//graemlins/jawdrop.gif

Everyone open this up and read the comments by the dealer tech. /ubbthreads/images//graemlins/uhh.gif

 

Has it run yet?

 

I am waiting on some tensioner bolts from JNZ. Didn't want to cheap out on those.

This weekend, probably, I'll have it running.

Believe me, there will be video to go along with the sweet, sweet victory.

And as far as the dealer R.O. is concerned, that was after engine #2 from when I bought the car, and everything went to hell.

Needless to say, with the pics of the wrecked crank and bearings, I think I proved my point from the finger pointing in the other thread. /ubbthreads/images//graemlins/smile.gif

 

[OldHairyBastard]

"Repair would be in excess of 10K"--What the hell was that tech smoking!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

How long did that crank sit before you take that picture... there is acutal RUST on it, which is obviously not right.

You put a new crank in it I assume and didn't cut or polish that one?

~Mark

 

Quote:
"Repair would be in excess of 10K"--What the hell was that teck smoking!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



Probably would cost that much if a dealer did the work!

 

Exactly, dealer cost, with labor, etc it really would have cost that much. I'm telling you guys, this car was a basket case.

And the crank has been sitting out since I tore the 2nd engine apart, only to find out none of the internals were any good. Everything on the engine is brand new.

 

[Rausch]

Quote:
How long did that crank sit before you take that picture...

i wondered the same thing...

as far as the tech comments, well, i see what you're getting at, but being that far out of "speck" tells you the motor is whooped. how or when is another story. 10k is just a silly statement. i don't think a brand new (remanufactured) engine AND new wiring harness would cost you that, but who knows what silly labor times/rate they had in mind....

Glad to see you not giving up on that bad boy. hope you get it sorted, as we all like to see another one back on the road! /ubbthreads/images//graemlins/grin.gif

 

Thanks bud! /ubbthreads/images//graemlins/grin.gif

I'm glad that you guys are so supportive on this.

In "Other Northeastern" sites, I got nothing but "Your fault", and "live with it"'s

Really helps a guy's morale, it really does!

/ubbthreads/images//graemlins/applause.gif to you, GVR4.org as well!

 

[Hertz]

I'm not a metalurgist, but I would think that a crank would not rust there unless it had some sort of damage to the surface.

 

Your right Hertz, it was gouged severley. Look at the bearing pic.

BTW, Hertz is your Galant Page down?

 

[Rausch]

meh, i let a perfectly good set of stock cams lay around for awhile in the garage, and the are RUSTY!!! i'm sure any scoring expedited that process though.

 

Quote:
I'm not a metalurgist, but I would think that a crank would not rust there unless it had some sort of damage to the surface.



According to the rod bearings, it looks like there was oil starvation.