The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource

Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.

  • Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
    In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.

New New Yorker taking on a gvr4

ade

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 16, 2011
Messages
303
Location
Paumanok NY
So a few days ago, I noticed my heater blower motor stayed on after turning off the car and removing the keys out of the ignition, I turned the blower off, problem solved for now. Two days ago I came back to a dead battery, this time the blower shut off after turning off the car but turned on a few mins after I had left.

Has anyone encountered this in the past? I have a feeling its a ground issue. I can't read my speed sensor through ecmlink and was wondering if they were on the same ground track. Either way I have a feeling I'll have to pull my dash in order to fix this. Damn squirrels must have trashed the place during their stay.

I'll appreciate any insight on the issue, thanks in advance.
 

ade

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 16, 2011
Messages
303
Location
Paumanok NY
Edit: Ended up not using these. with the wide option i could not get the drivers side seat centered without modifying the center console.

14+-+22
 
Last edited:

ade

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 16, 2011
Messages
303
Location
Paumanok NY
my buddy really dug em
14+-+1
 
Last edited:

ade

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 16, 2011
Messages
303
Location
Paumanok NY
They are not installed, that was just a mock up. Getting that drivers seat centered and low is gonna be a painful process.
 

92_talon_awd

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 11, 2014
Messages
456
Location
Knoxville, TN
I dig those Corbeaus man. Had a set in my 2g, some of the most comfortable seats I've ever had. I'd like to get a set in the Galant one of these days.
 

ade

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 16, 2011
Messages
303
Location
Paumanok NY
I got rid of the seats, corbeau's wide option. imo, is not an option for the galant.

I also had the car for sale but i couldn't get my asking price. so i now rent a garage.
I want her back on the road asap so she will be seeing alot of lift time for the below in the next few weeks.

complete drive shaft rebuild
rear end needs to get re shimmed
need a solution for the 044 pump noise
pass rear axle needs a new boot
replace cracked valve cover
the brake booster needs its own vacuum source
throttle body rebuild then another boost leak test
fix power steering rack leak
tune on the street
fine tune on a dyno


 
Last edited:

ade

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 16, 2011
Messages
303
Location
Paumanok NY
i've ordered the drive shaft rebuild kit from jnz and the rear differential shims from a local mitsu dealer, now working on a solution for the 044 pump.

At levels below a 1/4 tank, the noise the 044 makes scrounging for fuel gives me the willies, which of course brings up the possibility of blowing up the motor due to a drop in fuel pressure.

so i looked into surge tanks/swirl pots.

1c52026a.jpg

i wanted something like the above but while this help's with my starvation issue, it does nothing for the noise.

so i did a little more digging and found the below.

integrated_engineering_044_surge_tank_with_pump_1.jpg

intergrated engineering submerged 044 billet surge tank

Fuel_pump_cannister_6.jpg

034 motorsport fully enclosed fp34 044 fuel surge tank

now a normal swirl pot/surge tank is fed by an intank fuel pump but this isn't an option in my case so i'll have to go with a hunch and mount the pot lower than my fuel tank which in theory should keep it filled up. that being said i'm leaning towards the 034 unit's fully enclosed and compact design.
 
Last edited:

GSTwithPSI

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2012
Messages
3,461
Location
SoCal
It seems to me that it would be a lot cheaper and easier to swap to an in-tank Walbro equivalent or something. They aren't quiet, but aren't deafening either. Why don't you just ditch the 044 all together? Unless you are planning to do serious track outings in the future, a swirl pot is pretty overboard. I've only really seen them used in road course/rally cars to keep from fuel starvation during continuous hard cornering. I've also seen them used in a lot of off road rigs, like rock crawlers, which operate at ridiculous angles. Guessing you won't be doing any rock crawling with the VR4 though.

I'm glad you kept the car. I was watching this on Ebay and thought it sold for around 4k?
 

ade

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 16, 2011
Messages
303
Location
Paumanok NY
sea-swimming-namron.jpg

i fell overboard the day i decided to get a gvr4

this is what im working with buddy
IMAG0546.jpg
 

GSTwithPSI

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2012
Messages
3,461
Location
SoCal
That looks nice for a track car or garage queen, but if you plan on driving the car I'm not sure that's a great setup. I'm sure you have your reasons, I just think judging by what you're saying about the noise, you won't ever be able to bring it down to a manageable level.

There's 2 issues with that setup that make it less than ideal for a street car IMO; the first being external fuel pumps by nature are loud. The fuel tank and the liquid within do a lot to muffle the noise. Without them, you would need to insulate the pump somehow to isolate the noise, and I just don't see how that would be possible with the pump in its current location.

The second issue is your entire setup is exposed to the elements, and is in a prime location to get sh*t on by any and everything you drive through. If you plan on ever driving this in the NY winters, those components and electrical connections will need to be extremely weather proofed in order to stay looking pretty and functioning. I think that's the last place I would locate the pump on a street car.

I'm not really sure what your goals for the car are, though. If you're building a weekend toy for the track or something, nothing I said really matters. I just assumed you intended this thing to be fairly streetable when you mentioned the pump noise being annoying. Track cars are pretty much expected to be void of any creature comforts.
 

ade

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 16, 2011
Messages
303
Location
Paumanok NY
thanks guys, its my cool car, it is my track car, my drag car, my street car, my garage queen, my jsballer. i picked it up, knew what i wanted and been building ever since.

your first issue with my setup is my third, external pumps are loud. thats just part of the point to the surge tank. it'll keep the pump submerged, muffle the noise and move the pumps location.

your second issue is further down the line in my issue queue, mostly because exposure to the element hasn't been much of an issue, i drove it daily all winter through brooklyn, queens, long island and manhattan without one breakdown. i have access to a lift and regularly cleaned and inspected my under carriage keeping my electrical connections and components pretty and functioning.

anyway i had planned on making an under panel for the rear but it wasn't gonna happen thanks to the fuel pump location. now that its getting relocated, i can plan on getting it made.

as for my goals, like everyone i want a reliable galant vr4.
 

ade

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 16, 2011
Messages
303
Location
Paumanok NY
Quoting GSTwithPSI:
I'm glad you kept the car. I was watching this on Ebay and thought it sold for around 4k?



yeah it did, but the force is strong between me and this car.

got my drive shaft rebuild kit in from jnz, watching jafromobile driveshaft rebuild videos. gonna try and get this done tomorrow.

20140723_173805.jpg
 
Last edited:

ade

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 16, 2011
Messages
303
Location
Paumanok NY
so far so good
20140727_175010.jpg
 

ade

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 16, 2011
Messages
303
Location
Paumanok NY
finally got to the drive shaft earlier today, i couldn't find a 2 arm puller big enough to get under a bottom socket.
20140806_174319.jpg


the rear differential flange union joint was a bitch, it only turned on one axis, took 30 min to get through this.
20140806_180140.jpg


smh these were in bad shape /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bawling.gif
20140806_192657.jpg


all done
20140806_212526.jpg



thanks to Jafro's video, for making this a walk in the park.
next: shimming the rear diff (wish there was a walk through for this)
 
Last edited:

ade

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 16, 2011
Messages
303
Location
Paumanok NY
both rear axles cleaned up and re-greased, one torn boot replaced
20140807_161044.jpg


put a few coats on the ds
20140807_170403.jpg


waiting on a few parts for the rear diff rebuild
 

GSTwithPSI

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2012
Messages
3,461
Location
SoCal
Good work. Make sure when you put new grease in the axle, you only add a little bit. If you add too much, it will come flying out as soon as the car gets up to speed. Try and get the clamp on the boot super tight too. Everything is looking great though. It's nice to see people doing things to make their cars dependable.
 
Support Vendors who Support the GVR-4 Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned
Top