new guy,need help

[rost]

I got the car about 2 weeks ago.Drove it home everything was fine.Next day went to a store and when i parked my car and was idling i noticed the smoke coming from the tailpipe.I opened the hood,and heard a loud noise.So i thought the ebay 16g turbo crapped out,got the car home,found oil in the compressor housing and ic piping.Replaced turbo with a stock 14b.Noise and smoke still there....
Here are couple of vides that i posted on youtube to help me identify the problem.Noise starts at around 3k rpm,but seems to be better that the rpm go up.Here are the links to the vids.
click
click

thanx in advance for any help

 

[Nabeel]

you will be lucky if it is just air(intake or exhaust manifold) leak. Otherwise some thing wrong with engine. Are you loosing power?
Also where is your blowvalve?

 

[rost]

i have evo VIII FMIC,and the BOV is located the intake intercooler piping.It is also recirculated.There is also what seems to be a fuel cut.I dont have a working boost gauge,so i dont know how much im boosting...But when i hit 5k rpm,thats when i have a fuel cut....

 

[Nabeel]

Recirculated to where? Should be to the intake before turbo? I see the intake is open after filter. Also if the blowvalve sound is high & big power. It means your boost is very high.

 

[rost]

recirculated to the intake before turbo,intake is not open after filter,it just seems that way in the video...bov is barely heard,and its a stock one too

 

[Nabeel]

Good luck finding the problem. Based on how power is the car being' you will have better answer. Either air leak or overboosting kill the engine or turbo.

 

[Specter]

That is a very bad sound. I hope its something minor like a bearing seizing, i hope its not your crank. Well until the senior members reply, check if your coolant is always at the top level or does it go down? What is the condition of the engine oil? Is it milky? Keep your hand in front of your exhaust when the engine is idling and feel the smoke, is it vapor or is it oily? Touch your valve cover and check if you feel any vibrations on it when you rev the engine while its the making those sounds.

 

[Specter]

Also open the oil cap on the valve cover and rev the engine, see if its getting enough oil, your oil pump might be dead too.

 

To me....IMO, its sounds and acts like 1947 did when it had a bad turbo, and a massive boost leak.
I replace the turbo setup and found and fixed the boost leak, and Viola....no more noise. Maybee it will be as easy for you. Good luck

 

[rost]

oil isnt milky,coolant doesnt dissapear,i have yet to check if it gets enough oil....According to the previous owner the head was rebuilt 5k miles ago with the new head gasket,and the timing belt replaced also.I spoke to him yesterday after i posted this thread and he said the only rattling noise he heard was coming from the accessories,not the engine itself.He thinks it might be the alternator braket hitting PS pump pulley since there is very little clearance there.Is it possible,i did check that spot and it does seem to have very little clearance...
He also was using synthetic oil(mobil 1).Would switching to conventional help?

 

[Specter]

I do not think oil is the problem here. The sound is too loud, something mechanical is failing to do what it was intended to do. I do not think that the PS pump pulley is hitting the bracket by judging from the video, maybe i am wrong, just check your belts when your engine is idling, if the belts seem straight and not seem to move from side to side then its probably fine. It might be your turbo too yes, did you check for vibrations on the engine itself? Keep your hand on various parts of the engine to see where does the vibration seem to be strong, if there is any.

 

[Specter]

Also ask the previous owner why was the head built and was the oil pump ever replaced before. It might be your cams too due to lack of oil, check that too and then post here what did u find.

 

Buy a stethescope from harbor freight for $3.50 and use it to determine exactly where the sound is coming from. That will allow you to figure out what is going bad. A vacuum tester from the same place would allow you to see if you have a leak at idle. If you cannot afford a stethoscope, use a nice straight stick or metal bar. Cup it against your ear (not in your ear....) and place the end against various parts of the engine until you find the noise.

 

[rost]

i do have a stethoscope actually and i did pinpoint the sound to the turbo,thats why i replaced it...the sound stayed though,i will listen some more today and get back with the results

 

[rost]

Oh,and the turbo i replaced the blown one with,was an old 14b that i rceived with the car as a spare.Maybe it is bad too,but it looked ok,minimal shaft play side to side.
And as far as why the head was replaced,PO said there was nothing wrong with the old head,but the headgasket was bad,and since he was replacing it anyways and he had a rebuilt head,he decided to put it on.

 

[rost]

Here is an update.Using the stethoscope,i was able to pinpoint the loud rattle to the alternator.I also opened oil fill cap and there seems to be enough oil on the cams and valves...The car doesnt overheat,i did warm it up and drove it around the block a couple of times.It doesnt loose the coolant either...But the smoke doesnt go away.It is worse at idle,smokes a little worse than in a video.When i drove the car,smoke seemed to go away.But any time i stopped for more that 30 seconds it was starting to smoke again.Could it be the oil that was dumped in the exhaust from the blown turbo(blown seal)and if yes,how long until it burns out?Im pretty sure it is oil,its a thick white smoke,and it smells like a burning oil.

 

The blown turbo is currently filling your combustion chamber with crap. Under any kind of boost, that crap will harden and become rock hard. Then it will super heat, and promote detonation. This will lead to A COMPLETE TEAR DOWN! if you are unlucky. I had the same problem, pulled the motor apart and took out #2 piston, and a piece of the ring land popped off and fell on the floor....no damage or undue wear to the cylinder, I must have caught it barely in time. As far as the noise coming from the alternator? That is the alternator bearing. Tear the alternator down, replace the bearing and brushes with new ones if available, and reinstall. Or buy a reman unit to fix a $10 parts cost problem, your choice.

Oh, black smoke is fuel, blue is oil, and white is water.

It is possible that the old turbo was blown, and the new one is good. Open up your charge piping and clean an area thoroughly until it is q-tip clean, then put it back together and drive it. After a couple miles open it back up and repeat q-tip test. If there is minor junk on it, could be residual. If there is major contamination, most likely the 14b is also blown.

 

This is like dejavue to me. I also had a bad turbo from the get go, bought a used one off ebay, and low and behold, that one was bad too. The noise didn't change, neither did the smoke. I was like WTF! I finally broke down and bought a new MHI turbo(trying to keep as stock as possible),and" real" boost gauge. Then after the install, the noise disapeared.
It's funny your buddy said that about the power steering pump/alt., we also thought it was the power steering pump. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

 

[rost]

I just did a compression test and my results are very very bad /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
I have 30-40 psi on all cylinders.........At this point im just hoping i performed the compression test wrong or have a bad compression tester.Would the car even run with such bad compression test results?The way i performed the test:removed all wires,spark plugs.Connected the comp.tester to the cylinder.Gave it 5 revolutions with the throttle wide open.
Now for the compression tester-its a rental from autozone.What seemed strange about it is that i couldnt really tighten it all the way.It always seems to spin freely.But they gave me a brand new unit though.....At this point i dont know what else to do...

 

[Barnes]

Rent another on and try again. Also, see if you can buy/rent/borrow a compression tester extender. It is a metal extension that goes into the spark plug hole. It is a lot easier to tighten, and more reliable than twisting the rubber line of the compression tester.

Also, crank the engine until the gauge stops going up, not a fixed number of revolutions