New engine running way too rich - damage?

[Number996]

Hey Guys,

I'm gettin a compression test done tomorrow, but I want some opinions on whether or not I could have damaged my engine...

It's a brand new block from the race shop, bored to 85.5mm with ross pistons and rings.

The engine has accumulated just 50 miles and about 3 hours of running time sofar but I want some input if that's enough to do damage or not, so...

First, my engine coolant temp sensor was miswired from previous owner, forcing the ECU to think it was -40 degrees outside and dump ungodly amounts of fuel into the engine. Some driving, mostly idling, was done in this condition. Second, fooling with the VPC/2gMAF and running MAFless also forced the engine into running under rich conditions. The significant part of the 50 miles sofar was done messing with the VPC/2gMAF/MAFless and she was super jumpy/fuel cut like symptoms.

There was gas in my oil, enough to make the oil drip freely like water ratherthan like oil from the dip stick. I changed the oil, ran for 15 minutes, then chaned the oil again. I plan on doing another oil change this weekend.

No blue smoke (oil) has come out of the tailpipe, just transparant black (gas smelling) smoke

Should I be worried about my piston rings? Once again, they are new and Ross.

And is there any other tests I should be doing to determine engine damage besides a compression test?

Thanks guy!

 

[gvr4ever]

Doubtful. You probably got blow-by running rich and not warming up correctly, but most of the fuel probably combusted at the wrong air fuel ratio. It's usually hot and lean that does it.


I wasn't going to post on this because I don't build race engines, but I thought many aftermarket pistons/rings need to operate at full temp to have the correct compression. I thought they expanded differently then stock.

 

[Defiant]

I would recommend Royal Purple Engine break in oil. It contains hi levels of zinc and phosphorus, which help with ring break in.

If your oil is that thin, I would be a bit cautious that you didn't damage your main and/or rod bearings.

 

[5OF2k]

It's fairly possible you may have "washed" the rings, but doing the compe check and/or a leakdown would tell you more than anything if it has been damaged at all.

Out of curiosity, what were your AFRs during this time, if you've recorded them?

Keep with your idea of changing the oil though, definitely wont hurt it to have fresh oil in there, especially considering it's a new setup and everything is still trying to seat properly. Also, you dont have to run RP's specific break-in oil, but DEFINITELY run a standard SAE straight 30w oil during break in. Typically when I build a motor, I'll do the initial startup, let it run for 20-30 minutes at idle/full temp and then change it immediately. Then, while keeping 30weight in it, I'll drive it for a couple hundred miles and change it again, and do the same until I hit around the 1K mile marker. Then you can feel free to switch to a full synthetic and beat on it a bit.
Of course, that's all without it being broken in on the dyno, which i s much easier/effective.

make sense? Hope that helps!

-Jake

 

[Number996]

A/F ratio is a mystery. And no logger

Having a bung welded to the down pipe saturday morning to install my AEM wideband

 

[BadVr4]

washing the cylinder walls is definately a possibility. if the rings didnt seat right you will need to pull the motor apart, and re-hone the block

 

[turbowop]

Why did you even start the motor knowing that the ECU temp sensor was bad or that the ECU wasn't getting the correct coolant temps? Or with all the VPC/maf issues? Did this car run before you started all of this?

 

[Hondasi88]

My phone is dead but I have a logger for you use. I'll meet up with you later to drop it off.

 

[theevozero]

I'm gonna have to agree with the negative nancy's on this one. It is very important you don't flood your rings with fuel when you are breaking the engine in. Washing the rings is a very real possiblity. Quit with the tarded actions, fix what you know is broken and install the damn wideband(should of been done before starting). Drive it for a bit, then do a compression test.