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My Engine Bay- what would you change?
- Thread starterBpuVR4
- Start date
GSX_TC
Well-known member
Either get a better exhaust manifold or get a nice heat shield, then change the intake manifold, then an HKS timing belt to match the purple valve cover if that's the color you wanna keep. Not necessary but an all aluminum radiatior would also be nice.
Quoting LIV4PSI:
Get a heat shield for that exhaust manifold. Your BOV needs to be recirculated as well, or purchase a proper blow through setup.
Besides that, get a non-cruise cable if you can live without it.
oh jeez, the bov never really caught my eye...the isc/idling has been the primary concern right off the bat..thanks for the note. heat shield is on my original list to get. is there a reason for the cruise cable removal or just for cleaning up space?
Get a heat shield for that exhaust manifold. Your BOV needs to be recirculated as well, or purchase a proper blow through setup.
Besides that, get a non-cruise cable if you can live without it.
oh jeez, the bov never really caught my eye...the isc/idling has been the primary concern right off the bat..thanks for the note. heat shield is on my original list to get. is there a reason for the cruise cable removal or just for cleaning up space?
Quoting GSX_TC:
Either get a better exhaust manifold or get a nice heat shield, then change the intake manifold, then an HKS timing belt to match the purple valve cover if that's the color you wanna keep. Not necessary but an all aluminum radiatior would also be nice.
can you explain about changing the intake manifold? also down the line im pretty sure that purple will be changed, definitely not a color i wanted.
Either get a better exhaust manifold or get a nice heat shield, then change the intake manifold, then an HKS timing belt to match the purple valve cover if that's the color you wanna keep. Not necessary but an all aluminum radiatior would also be nice.
can you explain about changing the intake manifold? also down the line im pretty sure that purple will be changed, definitely not a color i wanted.
mitsuturbo
Well-known member
I see mention of an intake manifold. I don't see anything wrong with that one. SMIMs are a little expensive, might cause problems with passing visual inspection for emissions, and require some modification to the intercooler plumbing, since they generally lower the throttle body significantly. Sometimes this can be quite the undertaking. It's definitely not just a "bolt it in and go" type of mod, from what i've seen. I'm in full agreement on the exhaust manifold or heat shield, though.
I'd FIRST fix the wiring on top of the water neck. It looks atrocious and the pigtails can be had at junkyards for basically the price of admission. If you need one that's not crispy, take one from a radiator coolant temp sensor. Those wires are usually in good shape.
The oil cap looks horrendous, so i'd replace that "HELP!" oil cap from VatoZone with something decent looking.
I'm not sure why your throttle cable is taking a dive at the end of the fuel rail, but that doesn't look too kosher. Looks like it would cause some resistance, at the very least. I'd prefer to have it straightened out a bit. A non cruise cable is a good idea, as was mentioned. Personally, I don't much care for the miniscule reservoir on the clutch master cylinder. I'd replace it with one from a DSM, if it were my car. The L shaped engine mount bracket could use cleaning up and re-painting.
I can't really see anything else.
I'd FIRST fix the wiring on top of the water neck. It looks atrocious and the pigtails can be had at junkyards for basically the price of admission. If you need one that's not crispy, take one from a radiator coolant temp sensor. Those wires are usually in good shape.
The oil cap looks horrendous, so i'd replace that "HELP!" oil cap from VatoZone with something decent looking.
I'm not sure why your throttle cable is taking a dive at the end of the fuel rail, but that doesn't look too kosher. Looks like it would cause some resistance, at the very least. I'd prefer to have it straightened out a bit. A non cruise cable is a good idea, as was mentioned. Personally, I don't much care for the miniscule reservoir on the clutch master cylinder. I'd replace it with one from a DSM, if it were my car. The L shaped engine mount bracket could use cleaning up and re-painting.
I can't really see anything else.
unistylef
Well-known member
I would focus on derusting everything and making sure you have no cracked hoses.
raptorWagon
Well-known member
Removing the cruise control is mostly for space savings and if you never use it, "why keep it?" sort of thing. I never liked cruise control, even on long trips I didn't use it. The bpv like others mention needs to be recirculated, unless you are running a blow through setup (GM Maf) or you have converted to speed density.
The routing for the intake intercooler piping is normal. I agree though, there is no reason to change the intake manifold, most do it for bling factor IMO (how many people actually require the need for a smim?). Changing to the HKS timing belt just for color matching is a waste of money, but you already mentioned that valve cover color won't be staying.
The routing for the intake intercooler piping is normal. I agree though, there is no reason to change the intake manifold, most do it for bling factor IMO (how many people actually require the need for a smim?). Changing to the HKS timing belt just for color matching is a waste of money, but you already mentioned that valve cover color won't be staying.
Although you can't really see it in your picture, an ABS delete really cleans the engine bay up too. I found the lines and prop valve for $5 from a local pick and pull. Cruise delete basically serves the same purpose, just less clutter.
The heat shield and BOV recirculation are for function, not just to look pretty though.
The heat shield and BOV recirculation are for function, not just to look pretty though.
i was wondering how you guys were able to see some of these details cause i thought the pic was small, til i realized it blows up more haha.
had to look up what smim is- must be a newer product? the guy i bought her off of supposedly didn't know too much about it- he was a domestic guy and i traded my mustang for her. the guy bought 957 off his friend who had done most of the mods, so he himself didn't know as much about what was done to it. He kept telling me it was just a big 16g til i looked at the serial number on the housing.
supposedly this car has 272's, evo 3 16g, a small front mount, 560cc's, 2 month old shep stage 2 trans and transfer case, hard piping, 4 bolt rear, act 2100 clutch. He told me the turbo, injectors and intake manifold were off an evo 3- not sure about that one. Couldn't tell me about the fuel pump.
the car runs fairly well:
-lifter tick is very much there- will try to change to 15-40 weight, as prev owner claims he uses 20-50...unless everyone here thinks that's a better choice.
-the temp gauge points to the middle pretty quick (in my opinion), unless these cars did that and i dont remember.
-had high idle, tightened vacuum lines and went away. now just stalls when coming to stop sometimes...waiting to change isc as its out of spec.
-ac and power steering removed. hoping by next summer i put both back in. I park downtown Chicago all the time, and no ps is a pain- if i drove in the suburbs more, wouldn't care. getting old, and wanting ac now, sigh.
Im still relearning about these cars...it's been a good 6 years or so since the last one i had, so i'm thankful for the info/help here. Otherwise, I'm pretty happy with this purchase, and to be back in a VR4.
had to look up what smim is- must be a newer product? the guy i bought her off of supposedly didn't know too much about it- he was a domestic guy and i traded my mustang for her. the guy bought 957 off his friend who had done most of the mods, so he himself didn't know as much about what was done to it. He kept telling me it was just a big 16g til i looked at the serial number on the housing.
supposedly this car has 272's, evo 3 16g, a small front mount, 560cc's, 2 month old shep stage 2 trans and transfer case, hard piping, 4 bolt rear, act 2100 clutch. He told me the turbo, injectors and intake manifold were off an evo 3- not sure about that one. Couldn't tell me about the fuel pump.
the car runs fairly well:
-lifter tick is very much there- will try to change to 15-40 weight, as prev owner claims he uses 20-50...unless everyone here thinks that's a better choice.
-the temp gauge points to the middle pretty quick (in my opinion), unless these cars did that and i dont remember.
-had high idle, tightened vacuum lines and went away. now just stalls when coming to stop sometimes...waiting to change isc as its out of spec.
-ac and power steering removed. hoping by next summer i put both back in. I park downtown Chicago all the time, and no ps is a pain- if i drove in the suburbs more, wouldn't care. getting old, and wanting ac now, sigh.
Im still relearning about these cars...it's been a good 6 years or so since the last one i had, so i'm thankful for the info/help here. Otherwise, I'm pretty happy with this purchase, and to be back in a VR4.
desant78
Well-known member
Does the car idle well during start up? The BPV venting to atmosphere will affect the cars ability to maintain idle when coming to a stop. If the car starts up fine, and idles fine when started, and the issues are only during stopping, I would fix the BPV issue because that might be your problem. (I know, run on sentence but I wanted to make my point in one sentence).
Good luck! and +1 for lame ABS system delete.
Good luck! and +1 for lame ABS system delete.
raptorWagon
Well-known member
SMIM = Short Mount Intake Manifold (short runners). If it was a evo3 intake manifold, it wouldn't bolt up without modification and the runners would need to be port matched to your head. It's a bolt on affair for a 7 bolt head, but not a 6 bolt.
the car idles pretty well now in my eyes. it has a little lumpiness to it from the cams, but i got it to sit between 800/850-1000rpm pretty steady. when i got the car, the lowest it would idle was like 600, so i adjusted the idle (via grounding and biss screw)a few times, and thats where it's at right now.
when i come to a stop now, it'll stall only sometimes. Other times, when i hit the brakes upon stopping, it'll bottom out at like 500-600 and then bounce back up and hold around 900. Ive been in the habit of decelerating in gear til like 2k, put in neutral, tapping the throttle and then braking, but it'd be nice to be able to just brake normally.
when i come to a stop now, it'll stall only sometimes. Other times, when i hit the brakes upon stopping, it'll bottom out at like 500-600 and then bounce back up and hold around 900. Ive been in the habit of decelerating in gear til like 2k, put in neutral, tapping the throttle and then braking, but it'd be nice to be able to just brake normally.
Quoting raptorreed:
SMIM = Short Mount Intake Manifold (short runners). If it was a evo3 intake manifold, it wouldn't bolt up without modification and the runners would need to be port matched to your head. It's a bolt on affair for a 7 bolt head, but not a 6 bolt.
thank you, best explanation ive found yet
SMIM = Short Mount Intake Manifold (short runners). If it was a evo3 intake manifold, it wouldn't bolt up without modification and the runners would need to be port matched to your head. It's a bolt on affair for a 7 bolt head, but not a 6 bolt.
thank you, best explanation ive found yet
EMX5636
Well-known member
Quoting raptorreed:
SMIM = Short Mount Intake Manifold (short runners). If it was a evo3 intake manifold, it wouldn't bolt up without modification and the runners would need to be port matched to your head. It's a bolt on affair for a 7 bolt head, but not a 6 bolt.
I've always referred to is as Sheet Metal Intake Manifold. Runner lengths can vary. The increase in plenum volume is usually the key.
DSM heat shields are the same for 1G/2G. The 2G manifold looks thicker and tighter together at the collector. It's been a long time since I've had one though, so a quick Google picture search would probably help you better.
SMIM = Short Mount Intake Manifold (short runners). If it was a evo3 intake manifold, it wouldn't bolt up without modification and the runners would need to be port matched to your head. It's a bolt on affair for a 7 bolt head, but not a 6 bolt.
I've always referred to is as Sheet Metal Intake Manifold. Runner lengths can vary. The increase in plenum volume is usually the key.
DSM heat shields are the same for 1G/2G. The 2G manifold looks thicker and tighter together at the collector. It's been a long time since I've had one though, so a quick Google picture search would probably help you better.
Last edited:
Quoting MoMoVR4:
Quoting LIV4PSI:
Get a heat shield for that exhaust manifold. Your BOV needs to be recirculated as well, or purchase a proper blow through setup.
Besides that, get a non-cruise cable if you can live without it.
oh jeez, the bov never really caught my eye...the isc/idling has been the primary concern right off the bat..thanks for the note. heat shield is on my original list to get. is there a reason for the cruise cable removal or just for cleaning up space?
I'd change too much to list but if you're having idle issues I'd start by testing the coils on the isc. It's an easy test, the problem is new isc's are $135. If I remember. There's a website with drawings and instructions somewhere on the net, just search for it.
Quoting LIV4PSI:
Get a heat shield for that exhaust manifold. Your BOV needs to be recirculated as well, or purchase a proper blow through setup.
Besides that, get a non-cruise cable if you can live without it.
oh jeez, the bov never really caught my eye...the isc/idling has been the primary concern right off the bat..thanks for the note. heat shield is on my original list to get. is there a reason for the cruise cable removal or just for cleaning up space?
I'd change too much to list but if you're having idle issues I'd start by testing the coils on the isc. It's an easy test, the problem is new isc's are $135. If I remember. There's a website with drawings and instructions somewhere on the net, just search for it.
Smim has always been known to me as sheet metal intake manifold, specifically the first gen Magnus manifolds.
20/50 weight oil is probably fine for Chicago summers but definitely too thick for winter.
20/50 weight oil is probably fine for Chicago summers but definitely too thick for winter.
mitsuturbo
Well-known member
Quoting raptorreed:
The bpv like others mention needs to be recirculated, unless you are running a blow through setup (GM Maf) or you have converted to speed density.
Can clearly see there is a MAF under the IC plumbing. That BOV most definitely needs to be recirculated. I can't believe i missed that.
FYI, i tried running with a 2g maf at the track.. with the BOV recirculated, and without. When it was not recirculated, it added a FULL second to my 1/4 mile ET. I went from mid 13's to mid 14's. It's bad. No matter how much you might like the way it "sounds"... DON'T f***ing DO IT!
The bpv like others mention needs to be recirculated, unless you are running a blow through setup (GM Maf) or you have converted to speed density.
Can clearly see there is a MAF under the IC plumbing. That BOV most definitely needs to be recirculated. I can't believe i missed that.
FYI, i tried running with a 2g maf at the track.. with the BOV recirculated, and without. When it was not recirculated, it added a FULL second to my 1/4 mile ET. I went from mid 13's to mid 14's. It's bad. No matter how much you might like the way it "sounds"... DON'T f***ing DO IT!
