My Engine Bay- what would you change?

[mitsuturbo]

I've owned a multitude of 4g63 powered cars, and i've put castrol 5w50 in all of them. This has quieted all but the worst of noisy lifters. When that didn't work, i replaced lifters.

Why run 20w50 when you can run 5w50?

Also, sure it's hotter in southern climates, but is an engine that is running at a coolant regulated 200-225 degrees really going to be affected that much by a 20-30 degree ambient temperature difference? I mean.. does it really make that much difference, as far as the oil is concerned?

 

[BpuVR4]

Quoting EMX5636:
If that's the back of the HKS BOV in your first post, that port doesn't need to be connected to anything. It's to make it "fast acting" like the secondary port on the Greddy Type-S and if you Dodge Garage mod the stock 1G BOV.



hks bov


the top of bov where it's busted off


i traced the vacuum hose from the side of the bov, and it is indeed plugged into the intake manifold. i was confused earlier cause i traced it wrong.

 

[iceman69510]

On oil issues, remember that the "20w" refers to the viscosity at cold temps, so 20w50 and 5w50 should not perform differently at higher temps.

I personally believe a 20 or 30 weight (second number) is too low for these cars unless it is synthetic. Yes, I know Evos use lower weights, but they are synthetic. Original spec I checked (91 service manual for Eclipse) says use 20w40 for temps above freezing. I like to use 15w40 for my daily car, and I use diesel oit typically, at least I have been trying it this year.


Quoting mitsuturbo:
i've put castrol 5w50 in all of them. This has quieted all but the worst of noisy lifters.

Why run 20w50 when you can run 5w50?

Also, sure it's hotter in southern climates, but is an engine that is running at a coolant regulated 200-225 degrees really going to be affected that much by a 20-30 degree ambient temperature difference? I mean.. does it really make that much difference, as far as the oil is concerned?

 

[BpuVR4]

Quoting mitsuturbo:
I've owned a multitude of 4g63 powered cars, and i've put castrol 5w50 in all of them. This has quieted all but the worst of noisy lifters. When that didn't work, i replaced lifters.



duly noted

 

[BpuVR4]

few questions- planning to get everything together to recirculate:

-has anyone fabbed a nonrecirc intake pipe to a recirculating one...or not worth the trouble? been trying to find one used but no luck.

-ive always had the bov already installed on the ic pipe already...are these things welded on? I don't see how to remove them. i know the 1g bov is bolted on, but guessing it a different flange needs to be welded on? or better to buy with one already set up on the pipe?

-once i recirculate the bov correctly, do i have to readjust anythinng ie with the safc, or can I leave them be as is?


thanks for the help guys, again.

 

[LIV4PSI]

Your intake and intercooler setup is all custom, so it might be easier to modify your intake.

The bov isn't welded. HKS valves install using basically a snap ring. If you want to use a different BOV, you will need a flange welded on. They sell recirculation kits for the newer style HKS valves. Look at this pic, it shows the recirculation kit, and how it attaches to the piping.

Nothing will need adjusted once it recirculated, and this is what the ECU is already expecting.

 

[BpuVR4]

yea i was stressing out cause i realize my hks bov is the older style (I believe) and wondering if a recirc kit would work on it.

Also I never seen the intake get faced backwards like it is on here, and was hoping to just figure out a way to make a Dejon pipe (or similar) to fit that way, but not sure how to make the turn.

stuff like drives me nuts...i just dont see why prev owner had to do it the hard/worse way in the first place.

 

[JNR]

Quoting MoMoVR4:
few questions- planning to get everything together to recirculate:

-has anyone fabbed a nonrecirc intake pipe to a recirculating one...or not worth the trouble? been trying to find one used but no luck.

-ive always had the bov already installed on the ic pipe already...are these things welded on? I don't see how to remove them. i know the 1g bov is bolted on, but guessing it a different flange needs to be welded on? or better to buy with one already set up on the pipe?

-once i recirculate the bov correctly, do i have to readjust anythinng ie with the safc, or can I leave them be as is?


thanks for the help guys, again.



I had an FP (iirc) 4" intake tube that had nothing on it and added a few nipples, one of which was the BOV recirc and the other two smaller ones were the PCV air intake (that goes to the side of the VC) and the other is that line that comes off the charcoal canister. I wanted everything hooked up and functioning. I made them on the lathe and had them welded up and it came out pretty nice. The tube was originally powdercoated but of course when you weld it needs to be stripped down to bare metal in those areas...so, I repainted it with glossy black rattle can and it came out decent enough (still needs some polishing/waxing)...Here's a pic:



If I understand your question about the BOV mount, if it's similar to an oem unit (that uses a mating flange/gasket), then you'll want that flange welded onto the pipe and the BOV attached to that with screws...Originally, my plate was welded right onto the pipe with a thin plate and I didn't like that (was a crappy weld and seemed warped to me), so I made a standoff tube and a thick mating plate. Here's a pic for reference (yeah, the gasket isn't there yet, as it's still in mock-up stage):





Anyhow, you can't tell in the pic necessarily, but the intent was to have that recirc hose go straight into the intake tube, which is does.

 

[LIV4PSI]

Use can use flexible hose instead of thick rubber for the recirculation hose. Then it won't matter where the intake is within reason.

 

[JNR]

Yeah, that's how mine was setup when I first go it, as far as the intake and the BOV was mounted in a different location, so it had to come up and around, which IMO sucked. So, when I started from scratch on the design, I wanted the shortest and straightest path as possible, which this is. Hard to tell, but I am using silicone hose that only came in blue (yuck), so I wrapped it to match.

 

[BpuVR4]

Quoting LIV4PSI:
Your intake and intercooler setup is all custom, so it might be easier to modify your intake.

The bov isn't welded. HKS valves install using basically a snap ring. If you want to use a different BOV, you will need a flange welded on. They sell recirculation kits for the newer style HKS valves. Look at this pic, it shows the recirculation kit, and how it attaches to the piping.



another thought...since i have the older HKS bov on there now, would you think its as easy as remove and install a newer one without any flange changes? All i see new are the SSQV's. Again, trying to do things as simple as possible so i can get this baby recirculated. I've also been looking for a 1g bov already mounted on a straight hard ic pipe...gonna go with whichever is easier find.

 

[JNR]

Judging by the picture, it looks like your HKS BOV just needs to have that 'horn' piece replaced with a tube and it appears it's held on by two screws, so making something shouldn't be too difficult. May be able to weld a tube on, but IMO not the best idea since I bet it's cast alum. and I personally don't like messing with things like that as it kind of ruins the piece. Changing the horn with a screw on piece though wouldn't since it can be changed back...

 

[BpuVR4]

just gonna post this here to not clutter up the forum with more q's.

so the honeymoon period is over and it's apparently time to get my hands dirty and brain working as 957 left me stranded last Friday. I was able to push her to a safe street to diagnose. I was left with no fuel/no spark with strong cranking after it just stalled and died- no CEL. Hooked up to the multimeter, the needle just swept back and forth showing no codes.

-thought it was bad ecu or possibly bad cas, put in a different ecu and cas from supposed good running cars. i'd crank her and the tach needle would bounce a little. I know i have spark as i pulled turned the motor over with a plug pointed up and grounded to see it spark. I don't smell fuel.

-took another look around, thinking it may be the mpi relay now. I had my friend test it and he said one set (one to fuel pump) wasn't closing but we thought it was due to ecu or cas. I looked today in daylight, and one pin was burnt on the relay side, and the same location on the connector plug side. Unfortunately the pics i took of it came out bad. So this is the next one I'm gonna try to cross off the list.

-tried to take a look at the fuel pump and i've never see one rewired before, but it looked questionable:







-took shots of the ecu wiring harness. i see one part of the wire exposed that i will get taken care of asap, but overall this looks pretty messy:




i half smile, as i forgot that these cars make you actually think!