Whoodoo
Well-known member
the three holes in the strut tower are located inside, outside, and towards the rear. There shouldn't be any difference between left/right side as far as caster is concerned, right?
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Ksport Pillowball Mounts. Any experiance....
- Thread starterNabeel
- Start date
belize1334
Well-known member
^^ Incorrect. The hole in the strut tower is eliptical and the strut piston should be located toward the rear foci of the elipse. So, if you want to use inside, back, outside...then you have to have one for each side because the camber will have to slide to the inside making the plates asymmetric. If on the other hand you want to use the front and back bolts then you have to have the slide located to the rear, again making it antisymmetric. This is why Teins have a clear "Left/Right" label on theirs, as do other reputable vendors.
Whoodoo
Well-known member
Ok I think I was visualizing it incorrectly. Thanks for setting me straight.
broxma
Well-known member
Haven't arrived yet. I think I got the shipping info for them so this is really a reminder I should check that. brb.
And I'm back. My order was confirmed 7 days ago and I do not have a tracking number as of yet. Looks like it is time to make a call. Will update if I get anything tomorrow.
/brox
And I'm back. My order was confirmed 7 days ago and I do not have a tracking number as of yet. Looks like it is time to make a call. Will update if I get anything tomorrow.
/brox
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Whoodoo
Well-known member
Mine should be arriving next week.
Whoodoo
Well-known member
Mine arrived today. Both sides /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif. They needed some modification to fit the evo X struts I'm putting them on. In retrospect, I should have asked for the bearing that fits the evo X and the plate for the galant. I don't know if they do that, but I wouldn't see why not.
Here's all the pieces per side. The inserts in the middle have an inner diameter of 12mm and the shoulder is 5.5mm tall. This along with the ball joint (20mm thick, 18mm ID) means you'll need 31mm plus threads on top in order to get the top nut on. I don't have measurements for the stock struts, but tonight i'll be updating my evo X suspension thread with more details of my mods.
Here's all the pieces per side. The inserts in the middle have an inner diameter of 12mm and the shoulder is 5.5mm tall. This along with the ball joint (20mm thick, 18mm ID) means you'll need 31mm plus threads on top in order to get the top nut on. I don't have measurements for the stock struts, but tonight i'll be updating my evo X suspension thread with more details of my mods.
Whoodoo
Well-known member
I will once I go home in may, but I'm not really fond of spring compressors so I may not. For now they will be staying on my evo X struts.
If you wanted to know if they fit, all you need to do is take a few measurements off the top of the strut. You'll need 31mm of 12mm OD shaft and then enough 12mm threads on top of that for the nut.
If you wanted to know if they fit, all you need to do is take a few measurements off the top of the strut. You'll need 31mm of 12mm OD shaft and then enough 12mm threads on top of that for the nut.
Whoodoo
Well-known member
yea it looks like you'll be ok. You may have to widen out one of the spacers for the bottom but its easy to do with a drill.
broxma
Well-known member
My camber plates have a delivery date of today. I'll try and get them on tonight after I get back from school.
/brox
/brox
broxma
Well-known member
They arrived. One is scratched. Chalk it up to very poor shipping.
I'll be attempting to put them on tonight since I need to get the axles back into the tranny, so I can put the alternator relocation kit on, so I can put the power steering setup on, so I can put the manifold on......
/brox
I'll be attempting to put them on tonight since I need to get the axles back into the tranny, so I can put the alternator relocation kit on, so I can put the power steering setup on, so I can put the manifold on......
/brox
broxma
Well-known member
Simple answer to all the questions. They don't fit. The units as pictured above come with two sleeves, one for the top of the ball, one for the bottom. There isn't enough threaded stem, maybe 3 threads, to install them, even with the bottom sleeve completely removed. In addition, due to the flat key spot on the strut shaft, the bottom sleeve won't sit all the way flush with the top of the spring perch. What this means is that with the bottom sleeve installed, according to what I can only assume is how they should be installed, the threaded section of the strut sits about 1/2 an inch below the top of the top sleeve.
The only way to get these to work, is to bore out the bottom sleeve to .588" and cut the spacer down. You would then need to cut down the top sleeve to get more exposed threads. I'll grab my camera in a just a minute to illustrate what I am saying a little better,not but in short, they don't fit. They can be made to fit although I am not sure in the manner intended.
As far as the elliptical hole issue it is not an issue. What happens is the offset and bolt pattern is the same and correct, just on the passenger side the K-Sport logo is on the opposite side. I'll get pictures of that as well.
/brox
The only way to get these to work, is to bore out the bottom sleeve to .588" and cut the spacer down. You would then need to cut down the top sleeve to get more exposed threads. I'll grab my camera in a just a minute to illustrate what I am saying a little better,not but in short, they don't fit. They can be made to fit although I am not sure in the manner intended.
As far as the elliptical hole issue it is not an issue. What happens is the offset and bolt pattern is the same and correct, just on the passenger side the K-Sport logo is on the opposite side. I'll get pictures of that as well.
/brox
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broxma
Well-known member
Here you go.
Here is the strut with the mount removed. The spring is completely compressed and the spring perch is in its lowest possible position, basically, they flat keyed section stops. The bottom spacer, which is identical to the top spacer, is a perfect fit for the threaded part of the shaft but stops at the section where the keyed flat part is for the spring perch as you can see. According to my measurements, with both spacers installed into the camber plate there is a gap between them of maybe .2" so installed on the strut, in the plate, they won't actually touch, there will be a gap. Here is why that is a problem...
Here is both spacers stacked on the strut. Again, they can't go past the stepped keyed section and they are already covering the top of the strut rod. In addition, the top of the rod has about 1/4" of no threads, so they have to go at least that much further down just to begin to see threads. With no spacers in, the plate is totally floppy all over the place, even when set over the stepped key section there is a gap.
The only way I can see them working is to cut the tops off of them and bore the bottom out to slide over top of the keyed stepped section, which I measured out to be .588". I put the plate on with only the top spacer installed, no bottom spacer and there is about 3-4 threads sticking up. If the bottom spacer was cut down, bored out, and the top spacer milled down a bit, I suppose it would make decent contact and have a full nut worth of thread.
As for the camber offset issue....
This is the passenger side. The drivers side installs the exact same way. The difference again is the logo is upside down on the passenger side while on the Drivers side it is normal. You can just see the logo peeking out at the bottom of the tower hole.
I'll try and get up to the shop either tomorrow or Friday to cut the spacers down and see how it goes back together.
/brox
Here is the strut with the mount removed. The spring is completely compressed and the spring perch is in its lowest possible position, basically, they flat keyed section stops. The bottom spacer, which is identical to the top spacer, is a perfect fit for the threaded part of the shaft but stops at the section where the keyed flat part is for the spring perch as you can see. According to my measurements, with both spacers installed into the camber plate there is a gap between them of maybe .2" so installed on the strut, in the plate, they won't actually touch, there will be a gap. Here is why that is a problem...
Here is both spacers stacked on the strut. Again, they can't go past the stepped keyed section and they are already covering the top of the strut rod. In addition, the top of the rod has about 1/4" of no threads, so they have to go at least that much further down just to begin to see threads. With no spacers in, the plate is totally floppy all over the place, even when set over the stepped key section there is a gap.
The only way I can see them working is to cut the tops off of them and bore the bottom out to slide over top of the keyed stepped section, which I measured out to be .588". I put the plate on with only the top spacer installed, no bottom spacer and there is about 3-4 threads sticking up. If the bottom spacer was cut down, bored out, and the top spacer milled down a bit, I suppose it would make decent contact and have a full nut worth of thread.
As for the camber offset issue....
This is the passenger side. The drivers side installs the exact same way. The difference again is the logo is upside down on the passenger side while on the Drivers side it is normal. You can just see the logo peeking out at the bottom of the tower hole.
I'll try and get up to the shop either tomorrow or Friday to cut the spacers down and see how it goes back together.
/brox
Whoodoo
Well-known member
Yup, ran into the same problems. First of all, mine came a little scratched because they shipped them top to bottom instead of bottom to bottom (like E3 instead of 3E) so the studs scratched up the top faces a tiny bit. Second of all, I thought I was running into size problems because I put them on some evo X front struts. Maybe we should get in touch with Ksport and let them know what the right size inserts should be?
Hey brox, could you perhaps verify these dimensions?
I did a writeup here but for some reason a few of my pics wouldn't upload.
Basically in order to remedy this I did 3 things:
1) bored out the bottom insert to 17mm
2) took material off the top insert's shoulder
3) milled off the steel 'hat' on the spring perch
Imma try to upload a photo of the spring perch...
Then I milled it to this
All of this together left me with this
Hey brox, could you perhaps verify these dimensions?
I did a writeup here but for some reason a few of my pics wouldn't upload.
Basically in order to remedy this I did 3 things:
1) bored out the bottom insert to 17mm
2) took material off the top insert's shoulder
3) milled off the steel 'hat' on the spring perch
Imma try to upload a photo of the spring perch...
Then I milled it to this
All of this together left me with this
broxma
Well-known member
So as you can see above the set of spacers sent with the camber plates won't possibly work. I set about making some spacers of my own. I have access to a lathe and other such stuff so off to the shop I went and this is what I came up with.
The spacers are just under an inch in height and have a stepped center hole. The top, smaller section fits over the threaded part while the bottom larger hole fits over the part keyed for the spring perch.
Here I have flipped one over to show the material I left for the nut to sit on.
Here it is just sitting on the strut rod. They are slightly taller than the ball on the plates so the tension should be all on the spacer. This also shows how much thread I will have left.
Half sunk into the ball.
Fully seated on the strut with the plate installed.
Torqued down.
Installed in the car.
Now onto the problems. The drivers side spins fine, but it shakes a bit. More than I am comfortable with honestly. It is either because the lower(larger) hole I drilled is too big or it is not making contact on both sides. The passenger side is nice and snug, but the strut won't spin. I am fairly certain this is the top of the spring perch making contact with the bottom of the ball. I am not entirely certain why K-Sport did not use a floating ball system but they don't. So like I said, this purchase was an experiment, and thus far, an experiment in what not to buy. Given the bad fitment, extra work and quality, I recommend against getting these. I will get mine to work in the end, but at a cost which makes me wish I had bought something proven.
/brox
The spacers are just under an inch in height and have a stepped center hole. The top, smaller section fits over the threaded part while the bottom larger hole fits over the part keyed for the spring perch.
Here I have flipped one over to show the material I left for the nut to sit on.
Here it is just sitting on the strut rod. They are slightly taller than the ball on the plates so the tension should be all on the spacer. This also shows how much thread I will have left.
Half sunk into the ball.
Fully seated on the strut with the plate installed.
Torqued down.
Installed in the car.
Now onto the problems. The drivers side spins fine, but it shakes a bit. More than I am comfortable with honestly. It is either because the lower(larger) hole I drilled is too big or it is not making contact on both sides. The passenger side is nice and snug, but the strut won't spin. I am fairly certain this is the top of the spring perch making contact with the bottom of the ball. I am not entirely certain why K-Sport did not use a floating ball system but they don't. So like I said, this purchase was an experiment, and thus far, an experiment in what not to buy. Given the bad fitment, extra work and quality, I recommend against getting these. I will get mine to work in the end, but at a cost which makes me wish I had bought something proven.
/brox
