I Know...another Oil Question

[prove_it]

If your using E85 in the winter, you must run a thinner oil. Otherwise you'll kill your battery trying to start the car. E85 does not like the cold. I honestly don't miss trying to start that thing in sub 20* temps.

I was at the point of using a 900cca battery with 5w-30 oil. Then had to sit in the car to warm it up cause until water temp was at least 130 it would die.

 

[EMX5636]

I've heard and witnessed that on E85. I'm on 93 pump so I get a little lucky. With my aluminum rods though, I don't move the car until it's over 120-130* to get some heat in them.

 

[presterone]

Anyone ever heard of lifters keeping valves slightly open due to a thick oil, in cold climates, after sitting?

 

[Wolfpuss]

I run Rotella T6 on all my vehicles. Simply a great oil for the price! I also run Purolator filters except for my motorcycle that gets K&N since its an easier filter so safety wire.

 

[EMX5636]

Quoting presterone:
Anyone ever heard of lifters keeping valves slightly open due to a thick oil, in cold climates, after sitting?



Shouldn't happen if the lifters are working correctly and the ports in the head aren't restricted. Pressure to them should cease as soon as the engine shuts down. If they are bled correctly, they shouldn't be able to hold valves open between starts. Only time I hear of this is during cam installs if they aren't bled down correctly.

 

[presterone]

I ran ams oil 10w40, drove the car a week, it sat for two weeks and I went to start it and it sounded like low compression. I had actually thought my t belt snapped, but its good. The lifters were ticky when cold the entire time I've hhad the car but it didn't worry me much.

 

[GSX_TC]

All I run all year round is Valvoline VR1 Racing 20/50, as it was reccomended by Forced Performance on the list provided in post number 3 of this thread. I daily my car and drive for extended periods of time, and with occasional "night runs" in "Mexico".

 

[Chad989of2000]

Just picked up some Valvoline VR1 Racing 20/50. Plan to swap to it for next oil change. All the reviews looked good and I also saw that FP recommendation.

 

[Wookalar]

This topic has already been hashed over a bazillion times before on this site and all over the online auto world. In fact, simple searches turn up thousands of results in the search que on google, many of which have actual oil analysis and composition based information, rather than just a bunch of people chiming in to tell you what oil they run because the commercial on tv told them it will unleash extra hp.

 

[Chad989of2000]

Targeting a specific market also yields the most relevant results. Asking specific vehicle owners for advice on the exact application you wish to employ said product on returns far more quality results than a session of "googling" various sites.

 

[tektic]

My machinist recommended Joe Gibb and it's on the sheet that fp recommended. I'm going to run that. They didn't differentiate between weights though. I guess ill stick with the 10w-30?

Fp didn't recommend t6 rotella and my machinist said it was garbage after being reformulated a few years back. I was going to use it but have changed my mind.

 

[ApexHunter]

^Re-formulated yes, due to increased emissions regulation on diesels. Still damn good, per a plethora of oil analysis. Just because the rules changed doesn't mean that anyone decided to start taking it easy on their rig. It's a pretty popular product, so it is not all that surprising that they didn't just cripple it. It's designed to take a beating, and it does. I'm actually sort of glad they did, because i run a cat on my car. Otherwise i'd go nuts with zinc.

 

[prove_it]

Rotella might not be the absolute best, but when your like me and change oil every 1k or so, saving 100 bucks per change is worth it.

For what it's worth, I've seen engines and turbos still fail with high end "super" oil.

 

[tektic]

Your using the 5w40? I know what you mean. I have to believe its better than 80% of stuff on the shelf.

I looked at a few analysts and 3 out of 4 said there was journal bearing material in the sample.that's by no means scientific proof of anything. Not to troll but just saying.

 

[prove_it]

I use the basic 15w-40. Doesn't start well in sub 30 degrees with e85, but it's now a dedicated racecar so don't care about that anymore. I do change oil every six weeks if it's sitting. Overkill I know, but avoids the oil turning acidic. It's damn cheap so it's no problem being overkill on changes.

 

[transparentdsm]

^ no way, not overkill at all. its what i use in my car and thats pretty much my oil change routine, except i go to 1500-1800 miles not 1000. i prolly don't make the power your car is making and it doesn't really get below 15 degrees in the winter here and is usually 35 by 9-10 am. for example its 34 out right now and its 8 am.

 

[prove_it]

Ha, I'm only at 320whp. I don't make big power, but I beat the piss out of it. When I drove it daily, I always ran it hard. 30k miles no issues, well except for a large oil leak on my turbo drain that dumped all my oil out and starved the main and rod bearings briefly.

I always stock up on Rotella when it goes on sale for 12 bucks a gallon. Beats 10 bucks a quart! I once bought 10 gallons at once when I found it for 10 bucks a gallon.

 

[transparentdsm]

ok so were both around the same power. im at about 22k miles with no issues using this oil. i also drive my car hard. for me the oil is always 12$ a gallon and 50$ for 5 gallons, its stocked at walmart and always at that price. sometimes they have a sale and they sell gallons for 8$ and thats when i stock up 8-10 quarts. carson city walmart is awesome.

 

[prove_it]

Ok so you can beat 10 bucks a gallon. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif

 

[badams]

Quoting transparentdsm:
for me the oil is always 12$ a gallon and 50$ for 5 gallons, its stocked at walmart and always at that price. sometimes they have a sale and they sell gallons for 8$ and thats when i stock up 8-10 quarts.



I'm so lost... you must mean quarts not gallons?