The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource

Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.

  • Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
    In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.

What can I replace/improve?

lowcashleblanc

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 19, 2013
Messages
118
Location
Denver CO
Upon doing some light reading in my spare time it would seem that there are numerous things I can replace using parts from other cars. i.e. Ecu, Maf, throttle body and ect. My question is what are the more important things that need attention first? Now with that said, my goals are a clean DD. No crazy power, No track days (well maybe one or two) but for the most part, this car will be babied.

My first plan of attack for my GVR4 is the trans.

:first fix(s)
-replace trans
-new clutch
-resurface flywheel
-rear main seal
-re seal oil pan
-slave cylinder
-nothing to do with trans (fix ecu capacitors/replace ecu)

Anything else that should be looked at while in that area? What are some recommended things to replace?
 

G

Staff member
Joined
Feb 24, 2004
Messages
8,896
Location
zompton
Full timing belt and water pump job.
 

Chi271

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 24, 2013
Messages
76
Location
Chicago,IL
Braided SS clutch line, master to slave... Replace the coolant lines that run from the throttle body to t-stat housing, aswell as the heater core hoses. These are known to leak and crack if not replaced. 271 actually has one of those line leaking now.. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif
 

lowcashleblanc

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 19, 2013
Messages
118
Location
Denver CO
Quoting G:
Full timing belt and water pump job.



Thanks, that is up on the chopping block as well. Most of my initial budget is going towards the trans fix. Trying to divide and conquer.
 

lowcashleblanc

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 19, 2013
Messages
118
Location
Denver CO
Quoting Chi271:
Braided SS clutch line, master to slave... Replace the coolant lines that run from the throttle body to t-stat housing, aswell as the heater core hoses. These are known to leak and crack if not replaced. 271 actually has one of those line leaking now.. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif



Noted, thank you!

There is already a SS line installed but it seems like its way way way to long. I will be looking into finding the correct one if this one is incorrect.
 

Chi271

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 24, 2013
Messages
76
Location
Chicago,IL
No problem! I've had those hoses go bad way to often on my cars. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 

LIV4PSI

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 24, 2011
Messages
1,774
Location
O-H-I-O
Clutch fork and pivot ball while you're doing to clutch. Don't shim the pivot ball since both it and the fork will be new.

When you re-seal the oil pan, use RTV and not a gasket
 

prove_it

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
Also put in a mix of redline MT-90 and MTF. Great fluid combo. Make sure you use an oem throwout bearing as it will last way longer and holds up better. The upgraded clutch fork isn't required, but it is a good idea. I would also throw some new axle seals on the trans will it's out. Might as well drain and fill the Transfer case as will. Close to stock, use lightweight shockproof, more modded use heavyweight.

Also I'm the kinda person that would replace the trans to engine bolts. They are old, and there are only 4 bolts so they see their fair share of stress.
 
Last edited:

prove_it

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
Oh and don't forget that there is a gasket also that you'll need when doing the rear main seal.
 

Once all of the above are done do a boost leak test before you do any mods. You will
thank me later.
 

maxash0775

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 19, 2009
Messages
217
Location
Bakersfield, CA
While on the subject of rear main seal (since I have destroyed 2 of them in the last month trying to install them). If you are a bull in china shop like me and lack proper tools or patience, take seal housing and seal to machine shop and have them press it in so it's done right the first time (unlike I did). Don't forget about metal spacer on the rear main seal housing as I did the first timely. Make sure the hole on the metal ring is on the bottom and the flat side of the metal ring touching the seal so the teeth are facing the block. Hard learned lessons for me.
 

jnava

Staff member
Joined
Apr 18, 2008
Messages
2,073
Location
Arlington, Tx
HEY, doing this is a major priority. Check your trans and transfer case. You do not want to get locked up in the middle of a highway or intersection as I've personally experienced. Having an extra t-case is quite normal around here. Pay the little extra for the correct fluids.


Quoting prove_it:
Also put in a mix of redline MT-90 and MTF. Great fluid combo. Make sure you use an oem throwout bearing as it will last way longer and holds up better. The upgraded clutch fork isn't required, but it is a good idea. I would also throw some new axle seals on the trans will it's out. Might as well drain and fill the Transfer case as will. Close to stock, use lightweight shockproof, more modded use heavyweight.

Also I'm the kinda person that would replace the trans to engine bolts. They are old, and there are only 4 bolts so they see their fair share of stress.

 

prove_it

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
Modern Auto performance sells the trans fluid redline cocktail for $45.
 

lowcashleblanc

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 19, 2013
Messages
118
Location
Denver CO
Quoting jnava:
HEY, doing this is a major priority. Check your trans and transfer case. You do not want to get locked up in the middle of a highway or intersection as I've personally experienced. Having an extra t-case is quite normal around here. Pay the little extra for the correct fluids.


Quoting prove_it:
Also put in a mix of redline MT-90 and MTF. Great fluid combo. Make sure you use an oem throwout bearing as it will last way longer and holds up better. The upgraded clutch fork isn't required, but it is a good idea. I would also throw some new axle seals on the trans will it's out. Might as well drain and fill the Transfer case as will. Close to stock, use lightweight shockproof, more modded use heavyweight.

Also I'm the kinda person that would replace the trans to engine bolts. They are old, and there are only 4 bolts so they see their fair share of stress.





Ill be picking up a used trans with around 40k on it from a Importer. Its definitly getting all the proper fludids. Im creating a list from this thread of the priorities.

Thank you all for all the great info, all the small details is exactly what I need.
 

prove_it

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
Oh and forget some simple green so you can clean up the front end and make it pretty. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

prove_it

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 3, 2008
Messages
4,201
Location
Sioux Falls, SD
Simple green and a pressure washer work perfect. I like simple green cause it works and a bottle at menards is around 2 bucks. If you really want drop the three front cross members, that will really open it up for cleaning. Follow it up with some POR-15 if you want to bomb proof the parts.
 

lowcashleblanc

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 19, 2013
Messages
118
Location
Denver CO
looks like Ill be renting a pressure washer. Thnaks for all the tips, much appreciated. I have heard good things about POR-15, I haven't actually gotten my hands on it yet though.
 

VR_IV_MR

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 4, 2007
Messages
283
Location
Queens, NY
not in the area but throttle body rebuild esp if idle issues
 

lowcashleblanc

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 19, 2013
Messages
118
Location
Denver CO
Should I rebuild or replace with a oem bolt on from another car? ex. 2g TB or the like. Are there other supporting mods I need to do as well to go this route. i.e. tuning..
 
Support Vendors who Support the GVR-4 Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned
Top