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Help with head removal

alik

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 8, 2006
Messages
357
Location
Boston, MA
Please, help, I'm a little stuck.
Pulling the head off the engine still in the car. Got the air and fuel lines off, belts off, electrical off, head stud nuts off. The head feels like something is holding it back at the back of the engine, yet I'm somewhat stumped. I'm trying to pull it with the intake (Cyclone) attached.

Could anyone please shed a little light on this predicament of mine?
Thank you!
 

fuel

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Joined
Feb 23, 2009
Messages
2,165
Location
Toronto, ON, Canada
Have you removed the brace from the rear of the inlet manifold to the block?
 

alik

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Joined
Aug 8, 2006
Messages
357
Location
Boston, MA
Methinks that's what I'm missing, yet I can't seem to locate said brace.
 

EMX5636

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Joined
Jun 28, 2008
Messages
1,631
Location
Bucks County, PA
I think the factory Cyclone has a bracket that bolts to the back of the block like the factory 1G/USDM VR4 intake manifold does. Should be a 14mm head bolt (or two, I forget), near the knock sensor. It's a PITA to get to, so not many people put them back in.

click
 
Last edited:

alik

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 8, 2006
Messages
357
Location
Boston, MA
Eureka!
I'm gonna git that sucka tomorrow.
Thank you!
 

kumfasa

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Joined
Feb 28, 2015
Messages
125
Location
Tauranga, New Zealand
Yep, Intake manifold support bracket. If you still have AC they are aa SOB to get at and if they have never been removed before they can be tight as hell. I built this tool Click to crack mine loose. Good luck.
 

alik

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 8, 2006
Messages
357
Location
Boston, MA
Nope. No go.
I don't think that bracket is on the car. Besides, in pics, that bracket is above the A/C. Mine seems to be stuck at the back of the engine.

It's like I've forgotten a head stud, but yet I've taken all 10 head stud nuts off.
I don't need to pull the head studs themselves, right? The head should just lift out?
Or, is it easier to pull the studs and reinstall them later?

I feel like I'm missing something...

There's a bracket on the intake, but it's connecting the intake to the head, not the block (at the rear, right around the CAS)

I've been trying to find the walk-through, and there doesn't seem to be one...
Crap.
 

MellowVR4

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Joined
Jul 25, 2009
Messages
1,662
Location
Milwaukee, Wi
Theirs not much holding the head on this engine. If you really have to you can remove the intake manifold to rule out that as being a possibility but I always remove them with the manifold on. I always remove... belts, t-belt, harness, turbo assy, head studs, that's pretty much it. its too simple of a job to remember every step.. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 

alik

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 8, 2006
Messages
357
Location
Boston, MA
Quoting MellowVR4:
its too simple of a job to remember every step.. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif


Agreed, but the first time is almost always a f***-up

Still, here's what I've got so far.
The belts are off, timing belt is off, water is disconnected from every pipe, including the heater core.
Spark plugs are still in, but every electrical connection is off.
Valve cover is off, head stud nuts are off, as are most of the washers (ARP).

I've checked several times, and there's nothing on the back or underneath the intake that could be holding the effing thing on.
I can rock the head, but it appears still attached at the back of the engine (passenger side). Almost as if I've forgotten a head stud or something.

I guess I'll have to disconnect the intake (and what a pain in the ass will that be!).
Shall I pull the head studs as well?
 

89Mirageman

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Jul 5, 2006
Messages
2,502
Location
Stantonsburg, NC
Maybe some of the washers are wedged against the valve springs? I'd take them off with a magnet or something to eliminate that as a problem. If the head is moving at all its unlikely that its the I/M bracket.
 

alik

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 8, 2006
Messages
357
Location
Boston, MA
Actually, that IS an issue. I was trying to remove all the washers, but some are rather stuck (they'll rotate but won't come out).
I suppose I should just start unbolting the head studs...
 

89Mirageman

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Jul 5, 2006
Messages
2,502
Location
Stantonsburg, NC
I would, they're easy to remove and will only take a few minutes.
 

EMX5636

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Joined
Jun 28, 2008
Messages
1,631
Location
Bucks County, PA
Yea, pull the studs. Some of the washers actually sit underneath the lower valve spring seats depending on what springs you have. If they get caught, they get stuck on the threads of the studs. Just pull them, use a magnet to get the washers out, and you shouldn't have an issue. You can leave the intake and exhaust manifolds on.
 

alik

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Joined
Aug 8, 2006
Messages
357
Location
Boston, MA
Quoting EMX5636:
You can leave the intake and exhaust manifolds on.


Planning on it.
Exhaust manifold is already off. But, I'll pull the studs tomorrow.
 

fuel

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Feb 23, 2009
Messages
2,165
Location
Toronto, ON, Canada
I think the metal bracket behind the cam sprockets has a 10mm bolt or two attaching the lower portion to the top of the block.
 

alik

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 8, 2006
Messages
357
Location
Boston, MA
Right, but I can wiggle the front of the head. It's the back of the engine (pass side) that's giving me trouble
 

89Mirageman

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Joined
Jul 5, 2006
Messages
2,502
Location
Stantonsburg, NC
Quoting fuel:
I think the metal bracket behind the cam sprockets has a 10mm bolt or two attaching the lower portion to the top of the block.



Forgot about that. A few 10mm headed bolts on that side holding the timing cover on.
 
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