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got a 1991 vr4 1405/2000 today, many mods no tuning HELP.

whats up guys and gals, im new to the fourm (first galant)
but ive had many 1g dsm's.

ok so i get the car today. mods are

FIMC
Bullseye t3/t4 57 trim turbo
walbro 255
fuel pressure regulator
3" ss downpipe all the way back no cat
tial BOV that isnt re-circulated

no boost controler
um stock injectors /cry
non-eprom ecu possibly from a talon

what happend is before they sold the car
they removed a VPC and some type of larger injectors

honestly im not sure i want a turbo that big, yall think
its at all safe to run this at 10psi on stock injectors/ecu?
also what fuel pressure is a good starting point? im sure a 57trim
flows more air @10psi than a 14b.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

What's not safe about 10 psi? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif Get yourself a manual boost controller and a logger, and start turning up the boost. What octane pumpgas do you run? Did they reinstall the stock MAS?
 

yea stock mas is in. there is no emissions stuff connected at all.

bullseye says the turbo will move enough air at 10psi for 300hp.
pump gas (93 octane)

they have the fuel pressure too low (30psi) ill set it to 38 and go from there.







i have my old 1g logger with TMO software, just gotta find a cheapo laptop as soon as i can.

my first project will be finding and fixing the powersteering leak in the back though.

as for all this capped vac and emissions stuff, im stumped, should i reconnect it all? the car surges a bit when warm.
 

iLLeffeKt vr-4

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 26, 2004
Messages
2,153
Location
NYC
Congrats on your purchase.

1. Leave the emission stuff alone

2. Set the fuel pressure to 37psi

3. Get bigger injectors

4. Do the basic settings and go from there.
Click here to set BISS screw.
Click here to set TPS sensor.
Click here to set Timing.

Click
 

Have you looked at the MAS to see whether it has the lower honeycomb or not? If it does, it will work fine with a stock DSM ECU.
 

toybreaker

iconoclast
Joined
Apr 30, 2006
Messages
3,581
Looking at your last picture, it doesn't appear there is a throttle body ground bar on the elbow bolt. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

That little tab helps ground the throttle body, and by extension, the closed idle switch.

It also appears that someone did a manifold brace delete, so it's quite possible the ecu isn't seeing the closed idle switch when the throttle closes on a warm motor.



There's a 4mm threaded hole on the top of the t.b. that the original ground tab went to.

A ground wire run over from it to the the same bolt as the manifold ground strap, or just a jumper over to the firewall *may* be all it takes to make things all good.

 
Last edited:

curtis

Well-known member
Joined
May 4, 2003
Messages
11,892
Location
Clarksville TN
^See this is why I like this guy. Still razor sharp even after the social security is rolling in. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif

+ one for Mr Toybreaker the ground strap is a must, sometimes it helps and sometimes not but isn't going to hurt either way.
 

i have some new ground straps made up, i found the surge problem though, at least one of them.
pins 5-6 on the ISC where open. if the Idle switch wasnt grounded there would be no surge and id just idle mad high :p, so i guess the bolts into the grounded intake mani is plenty.
 
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