GM Synchromesh

[ktmrider]

Quoting 5OF2k:
Where in that post did I claim those to be MY facts??

-Jake


Umm, your previous post?!? See next.

Quoting 5OF2k:
Call me crazy, but Im fairly certain that'd make his findings and publishings credible. Then again, who am I to bring facts to the table....?

-Jake

Look again I'm just passing some friendly ( and hard learned ) advice. Be careful who you hitch your wagon to. He's already reversed course on BS delete and as DSSA mentioned there are more than a few peeps who have witnessed some "unconventional" actions. Not bashing them by any stretch, he has way more Atta Boys than Oh Hecks, but as the saying goes one Oh Heck wipes out all prior Atta Boys..... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[bmxr152]

Ive used gm syncromesh, bg syncroshift, redline mt 90, and Diaqueen. The best fluid hands down is Diaqueen. I had syncro wear and failures with gm syncomesh as it was to thin. Diaqueen isnt much more and is an Oe Gl4 fluid. Jacks transmissions sells it or the dealer.

 

[transparentdsm]

1365 just got a trans and transfercase fluid change and lucas 80w90 gl-4 is what went in, can't really say anything yet, but it def shifts a lot smoother now. will keep everyone posted on how it feels. it was only 9$ a quart at advanced auto

 

[Spyke169]

Mitsubishi makes an additive, it smells terrible, very small amount in the container, maybe around 4-5oz. Anyways, I quick google search yielded no results on the stuff. But when I worked at the Mits dealer my parts guy told me about it, ordered me some up and when I did my clutch job I threw some in with the fresh fluid, it made a world of difference. I only have one instance to compare it to and that is when I made the switch from OE fluid to Synchromesh in my '97 GSX. Seamed this little bottle with the OE fluid was more noticeable a change than going from OE to Synchromesh. Now keep in mind this is comparing two transmissions that were probably in different condition with a different amount of mileage, The VR4 trans the I used the OE additive in was unknown mileage, the GSX trans had around 90K on it.

 

[DSSA]

The small bottle you're talking about is the Mitsubishi Friction Modifier. I used to sell a ton of the stuff back in the late 90s/early 2000s, but haven't sold any for years.

Reason being that its use was for the earlier transmissions that had the fiber lined synchros which are rarely seen these days. If you have an earlier transmission in its original configuration (meaning has been rebuilt with newer parts), it can help, as some fluids don't permeate the fiber lining of the synchros and cause them to hang up.

Early 91 GVR4s were included in this list if they (once again) had the original transmission.

Part number was ME581050.

 

[5OF2k]

Quoting ktmrider:
Quoting 5OF2k:
Where in that post did I claim those to be MY facts??

-Jake


Umm, your previous post?!? See next.

Quoting 5OF2k:
Call me crazy, but Im fairly certain that'd make his findings and publishings credible. Then again, who am I to bring facts to the table....?

-Jake

Look again I'm just passing some friendly ( and hard learned ) advice. Be careful who you hitch your wagon to. He's already reversed course on BS delete and as DSSA mentioned there are more than a few peeps who have witnessed some "unconventional" actions. Not bashing them by any stretch, he has way more Atta Boys than Oh Hecks, but as the saying goes one Oh Heck wipes out all prior Atta Boys..... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif



That's THEIR facts, not MY facts, good sir. Hence the source of the link JACK'S TRANSMISSIONS!!!

Im lost as to what you're speculating as far as "hitching wagons to" or whatever that nonsense is, I simply provided a link that's representative of my own mindset and been my source of success and undoubtedly the reason my stock trans have withstood abuse through 20+psi launches for years and years and years....

IMHO, it's good advise to follow, coming from a shop thats known worldwide to be innovative and build some of the best transmissions for everything from our shitboxes to supras to GTRs and Lambos. Call it what you will, but a wrap sheet like that IS credible and impressive, nonetheless.

Like Jack's, dont like Jack's, thats all on you. Im through talking about them. As I said, Im simply replying to the thread with an article that very closely follows my own beliefs when it comes to Trans health and fluids. The beliefs that have come from my many, many trips around the block.

-Jake

 

[DSSA]

Quote:
That's THEIR facts, not MY facts, good sir. Hence the source of the link JACK'S TRANSMISSIONS!!!



Therein lies the problem. The statements made on his webpage are his *opinion*, based on his findings/marketing some of which do not coincide with a lot of people that have similar or (in a lot of cases) more experience than him. You posting it as the end-all, be-all is where I think the disagreement comes in to play.

A look through his "DSM Tech" articles shows a lot of things that have been known/preached for years, I.E.:
--GVR4 1st being weak (we've been avoiding using/selling them for about 10 years--as have a lot of other builders)
--Clutch Drag killing synchros,
--Welded Center Diff risks, LSD Inserts (Does anyone really use these anywhere anymore??)

To things that are quite debatable:
--Keeping Balance Shafts for longevity (a personal favorite)
--Double Stacking springs on the hubs/sleeves (this was tried for a while back in the 90s to VERY mixed results)
--Aluminum Shift forks (the article looks like a back-door downplay against Shep and Marco's billet ones which work great, but leaving the door open to defend it as if he were speaking of the Evo ones with pads)

I will give him credit where credit is due for listing some of them on his site for general knowledge, but I (and quite a few other people in the industry) get annoyed with the downplaying of others' accomplishments/experience to boost his own. I've seen his transmissions fail, (in fact one just the other week with

 

[blacksheep]

Quoting DSSA:
The small bottle you're talking about is the Mitsubishi Friction Modifier. I used to sell a ton of the stuff back in the late 90s/early 2000s, but haven't sold any for years.

Reason being that its use was for the earlier transmissions that had the fiber lined synchros which are rarely seen these days. If you have an earlier transmission in its original configuration (meaning has been rebuilt with newer parts), it can help, as some fluids don't permeate the fiber lining of the synchros and cause them to hang up.

Early 91 GVR4s were included in this list if they (once again) had the original transmission.

Part number was ME581050.



This is why Josh is an asset to this forum. Fuggin wealth of knowledge! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/worthy.gif I don't know a lot, but I learned something new today!

 

[turbowop]

Quoting DSSA:



Therein lies the problem. The statements made on his webpage are his *opinion*, based on his findings/marketing some of which do not coincide with a lot of people that have similar or (in a lot of cases) more experience than him. You posting it as the end-all, be-all is where I think the disagreement comes in to play.

A look through his "DSM Tech" articles shows a lot of things that have been known/preached for years, I.E.:
--GVR4 1st being weak (we've been avoiding using/selling them for about 10 years--as have a lot of other builders)
--Clutch Drag killing synchros,
--Welded Center Diff risks, LSD Inserts (Does anyone really use these anywhere anymore??)

To things that are quite debatable:
--Keeping Balance Shafts for longevity (a personal favorite)
--Double Stacking springs on the hubs/sleeves (this was tried for a while back in the 90s to VERY mixed results)
--Aluminum Shift forks (the article looks like a back-door downplay against Shep and Marco's billet ones which work great, but leaving the door open to defend it as if he were speaking of the Evo ones with pads)

I will give him credit where credit is due for listing some of them on his site for general knowledge, but I (and quite a few other people in the industry) get annoyed with the downplaying of others' accomplishments/experience to boost his own. I've seen his transmissions fail, (in fact one just the other week with

 

[DSSA]

Just wanted to update this as I got some new information. A person's word means squat without honesty--and sometimes you have to eat your pride.

I'm referring to this part of my post:
Quote:
I will give him credit where credit is due for listing some of them on his site for general knowledge, but I (and quite a few other people in the industry) get annoyed with the downplaying of others' accomplishments/experience to boost his own. I've seen his transmissions fail, (in fact one just the other week with

 

[RHDgalantVR4]

It destroyed my stock transmission!!!!

running redline MT90 after rebuild no issues.

 

[marvinmadman]

I used GM Syncromesh in one of my Galants. I put around 30k miles on the fluid while running high 12's in the 1/4. I made a lot of people look silly too. Fluid held up just fine while letting the tranny shift better.

 

[DynastyLCD]

I'm now using Kias 75w85 with very good results. Shifts better than the gear oil I was using before. Trans feels great, I'm happy so far!

 

[slugsgomoo]

Quoting turbowop:
I use Neo RHD. It shifts well and provides excellent protection for the gears. Synchromesh is garbage and will turn your trans into a box of gravel if you make any kind of power. Sure it helps a trans with worn synchros to shift better, but it does nothing to protect the gears. If your trans doesn't shift well, either fix your clutch issues or replace your worn synchros.



Exactly. If you have a car that's stock, it's probably enough to get your busted ass synchros working well enough until you can replace the transmission. If you're making reasonable 16g power, I feel sorry for your gearbox.

Part of the reason my gearbox shifted so poorly into second (I'm pretty convinced) is that after I got the car and drained out the syncroshit, I noticed that it had the most beautiful metalflake silver color. However, even with the vast amount of metal in the fluid, it was still thinner than water. I ran some straight 90w cheap sh*t through it, drained it again and went to MTL/MT90 mix and it has survived, but it's not a good long term solution. Syncromesh is a bandaid that leads to even more expensive repairs IMO.

---

As for Jack's, given some of the sh*t he's said over the years I'd rather take the word from Shep, TRE or JNZ myself /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[transparentdsm]

so my syncros are shot. 1st grinds unless i put it in first and start the car. is there anything i can do besides rebuild the trans to get away with it for a few months while i save the money to buy the rebuild kit for my spare transmission. any help please guys.

 

[EMX5636]

Try putting it in second before 1st. Just in and then straight forward into first.

 

[transparentdsm]

yeah, it kinda works. most of the time when i go from 2nd to 1st it still does a light grind then i stop before it sounds bad and i slam it in real fast with minimal grind. im running redline mt-90 in the trans now and im wondering if i can swap it out for something thicker to just subside the grinding while i save my money to build a nice transmission out of my spare tranny.

 

[Egalloway]

Now that is character DSSA, I'm impressed! Thank you for all the info, I'm going through trans options and its crazy to have access to so much good info. Thank you. A few locals to me swear by the synchromesh and others sell redline for the dsm. Good to have some info from multiple DSM specialist.

 

[transparentdsm]

wanted to give an update on 1365's transmission and fluid, it has had a bunch of miles put on it and seems to be shifting great. im not with the car anymore, fiancees brother now has full ownership of the car and is super happy with everything. i think i might change out my redline fluid for some of this lucas stuff to see if it helps me.

 

[Street Surgeon]

If your trans is old, beat down, and dying then don't even think twice; run synchromesh 'til she poops out. If it's a good trans still then run what mitsu, shep, or tre recommends.