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Garage Tuning = FAIL

Read this for Garage Tunings Response.
Garage Tuning = FAIL








There has been some confusion.

Garage Tuning DID NOT TUNE MY CAR. I was a single dyno pull at a DYNO COMPETITION. I TUNED MY OWN CAR, THEY DID NOT TOUCH MY TUNE.

With that said, I am going to repost all info from all forums so that I have one huge complete thread.











Do not let them dyno your car.

I was at a car show/dyno competition today, and so as I rolled up I was talking with Mike at RRE and I though he was going to drive the car. It ended up being the owner(I think) of Garage Tuning. I told the guy to make sure the car was fully warmed up and he could not keep the car running, so finally he just stuffed it in 3rd fired the car up and made the pull.

Now normally this would be fine except my car has ignition timing added during start up. So my car was running 30* of timing at 31psi. I am amazed that the car did not blow up on the dyno.

Now to make it even better, before the car even got onto the dyno, it slid off the jack and they ####edup my hood latch so now my hood does not close properly. I do realize it is a 20 year old car but damn guys, really.

After the car made the power 616hp/462tq, knocking all over the place, the guys is being a ####ing #### sucker trying to tell me that I do not have my clutch adjusted properly, after I was telling him that my clutch return spring is ####ed and you have to lift the pedal with your foot.

So moral of the story, do not go to Garage Tuning, and do not let them dyno your car, even if it is free.

I will never let them touch my car ever again.









Bender on AEM POWER:
OMG. I'm surprised you didn't find one of your pistons on the ground! What did the voltage go to? I've seen a few high spikes before, but nothing that has "painted" the log with knock.









TheBoz2 on AEM POWER:
The highest I have ever seen my sensor read is 4v. So all those spikes are 4v.

There is a lot more to this story, I just could not believe that a dyno operator would not let my car get through the start up sequence as I described to him. Just straight to 3rd and lets run it out.

This was on a dyno pack, so I did not even know he was going until he was at like 6-7k, I was trying to deal with other stuff.

They even looked at me wierd when I told them I wanted to check the oil. I was like are you ****ing high.

So just remember kids, be very careful who you let dyno/touch your car. Mine should have blown up on the dyno but for some crazy reason it did not. I am going to run a compression test later in the week and see what the outcome is. I wonder if I have any bent rods? So for anyone who wants to know 30* is wayyyyyy past MBT. But E85 is magic I sware. On Gas the motor would have been done for sure.









Garage Tuning on AEM POWER:
Where to begin? I suppose I should start with the car going on the dyno. Had your car not been ****ing coolant everywhere, it would not have slipped off the jack. My employees said your water pump was squirting coolant out during the pull. Your car was the only one all day to leak anything. Theses were not drops, but an actual stream of coolant all the way to the end of the parking lot. Your car would not start up and required "gassing it", as you put it. Once it was warm enough to idle on it's own, I attempted to put the car in gear. As soon as the shifter was pushed forward, with the clutch in, it stalled. You used your twin plate clutch as an excuse. I drive a twin plate every day and that doesn't happen to me. What that means is you need to bleed your clutch or replace your hydrolics. After messing around with your car off and on for a good fifteen minutes, it should have been good and warm. Had I heard any det at all, I would have backed out. There was none. Had you mentioned your hood problem at the show, I would have been happy to take care of it for you. When you and your brother mentioned you were looking for a Mustang dyno to do tuning on, I found you one AND offered my dyno to you. I guess not.









Blacksaleen92 on AEM POWER:
[quote author=Garage Tuning link=topic=27096.msg138655#msg138655 date=1277780124]
Where to begin? I suppose I should start with the car going on the dyno. Had your car not been ****ing coolant everywhere, it would not have slipped off the jack.





If a car is ****ing coolant everywhere, why would you continue to dyno it?!? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif









TheBoz2 on AEM POWER:
[quote author=Garage Tuning link=topic=27096.msg138655#msg138655 date=1277780124]
Where to begin? I suppose I should start with the car going on the dyno. Had your car not been ****ing coolant everywhere, it would not have slipped off the jack. My employees said your water pump was squirting coolant out during the pull. Your car was the only one all day to leak anything. Theses were not drops, but an actual stream of coolant all the way to the end of the parking lot. Your car would not start up and required "gassing it", as you put it. Once it was warm enough to idle on it's own, I attempted to put the car in gear. As soon as the shifter was pushed forward, with the clutch in, it stalled. You used your twin plate clutch as an excuse. I drive a twin plate every day and that doesn't happen to me. What that means is you need to bleed your clutch or replace your hydrolics. After messing around with your car off and on for a good fifteen minutes, it should have been good and warm. Had I heard any det at all, I would have backed out. There was none. Had you mentioned your hood problem at the show, I would have been happy to take care of it for you. When you and your brother mentioned you were looking for a Mustang dyno to do tuning on, I found you one AND offered my dyno to you. I guess not.




I will never let you or your shop touch my car ever again.

That car did not leak a single thing until after the dyno pull. It slipped off the jack because your guys do not know what they are doing, infact you screwed up my hood latch/support and now my hood does not close properly anymore. I still need to pressure check my intercooler because you might have screwed that up also. After the car was up on the dyno packs, my brother confirmed that the car was not leaking coolant because the jack made contact with something that pushed my radiator up. He said the car was not leaking any coolant.

I also informed you that you need to hold my car at 5% throttle until the car has warmed up and completed the 30sec start up sequence, not stall it for 15 minutes and call it warmed up. I also told you to lift the clutch pedal with your foot to get full travel out of it(Yes my bad, I should replace the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder and rebuild the pedal box on a 20 year old car). Both items you refeused to listen to.

I have reposted this exact same thing in every forum I am on. I do not want anyone else to get boned by Garage Tuning.

Your best bet would be to apologize, and say that you are wrong. Videos coming soon!!!!


Let me replay the days events.

This was a dyno competition at a car meet. This was one pull on the dyno. I did not pay for dyno time.

1. Warmed up the car in parking spot.
2. Drove car over to dyno packs
3. Backed into dyno area
4. They started to Jack up front of car
5. After front wheels were off, car slid off of jack
6. Picked up car with another jack to get the hub adapters on the car
7. Put front dyno packs on the car
8. Jacked up Rear and put on dyno packs
9. I told them I was going to check the oil really quick before they start(recieved stupid look)
10. Go to setup laptop while they are starting the car
11. Instructed driver to hold throttle at 5% until car warmed up, then it would idle(does not have Idle Control Motor), car had been sitting for about 20-30min while hooking up dyno packs
12. Driver continued to just let off throttle before car had warmed up and it would stall
13. I move over to drivers side of car so that I can communicate with driver efficently
14. Drivers tries to put car into gear, has problems with the clutch engagement(Twin Plate) car stalls
15. I tell driver to get full sweep on the pedal, lift pedal with foot
16. Driver ignores and tells me I need to bleed clutch
17. Driver finally gets car rolling, stalls again
18. Driver stalls again
19. Driver stuffs car in 3rd and just mashes it.
20. Car has Start up Ign Timing that adds 20* at 0sec and tapers to 0 at 30sec, this is to help with cold starts/general startup
21. Before I realize what is going on, I though he was holding the car at 5k to warm it up, I then noticed he was doing the pull
22. Before I could tell him to stop the pull was over
23. As soon as the pull is done he shuts the car off, did not let it sit at all
24. Driver continues to tell me more **** about my car
25. Car is boiling water out of the overflow due to pushing coolent(will verify with compression/leak down test this week)
26. Driver tells me the car made 616hp/462tq @ ~31psi




Also you ran my borthers STI on your dyno, and you said that you heard a misfire with your highly tuned ears, and informed him that he had a blown headgasket after the pull. I mean, damn really you were batting 1000 over the weekend.


I also added the Log File.





THeBoz2 on AEM Power
[quote author=Blacksaleen95 link=topic=27096.msg138656#msg138656 date=1277781886]
[quote author=Garage Tuning link=topic=27096.msg138655#msg138655 date=1277780124]
Where to begin? I suppose I should start with the car going on the dyno. Had your car not been ****ing coolant everywhere, it would not have slipped off the jack.





If a car is ****ing coolant everywhere, why would you continue to dyno it?!? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif




I could not have said it better.



[quote author=Garage Tuning link=topic=27096.msg138659#msg138659 date=1277792187]
The car was not being tuned at all. It was one pull and NONE of the elaborate instructions were ever mentioned. The car barely ran and should not have been there. Had any of us had known the condition of either car, they would not have been allowed on the dyno.

The factory Subaru ecu flashes the check engine light during a missfire. It flashed at 5200 rpm. I got out of the car, noticed the radiator hose was totally ballooned, the coolant tank was almost empty and a new radiator had already been put in. That is a classic Subaru headgasket failure. That car put down stock power levels with a catless turbo back and an intake with increased boost. Fail?

People, this was no tuning session. Cars are expected to be in good working order and are run once to redline and removed. If damage was done while puting the car on or off the dyno, it should be mentioned at the time so that it can be taken care of insted of throwing a tantrum on the net. In fact, we were all concerned when it did slip off the jack and YOU shrugged it off and said the bottom of the car was "worked anyways."






Garage Tuning did not tune my car.
This was 100% my own tune.
All they did was a single dyno pull at a dyno competition.
They did not tune the car, it was my own tune.


"The car barely ran and should not have been there"
How did I drive it there. Better yet, how did the car make 678/496 4 weeks ago on a dyno jet
click

"Had any of us had known the condition of either car, they would not have been allowed on the dyno."
I should have known better then to let you touch my car. You clearly have no clue what you are doing. How many questions did you ask about my car. Also please list out the questions that you asked about my car so that everyone can know exactly what you asked. Also in your previous post you said the car was ****ing coolant everywhere. Why did you not stop it right there? You had plenty of time to inspect the car before you jumped in to do the dyno, why did you not stop it then? Also please describe the condition of the car, I am very curious.


The Subaru, that is BONE STOCK with a Turbo back and an Intake and BOV. Yes that sounds like it is in bad condition and should not be on the dyno. You know there is more than one reason for a missfire and there is more than one reason for a low resivor. Like if you changed your radiator, and filled everything up and ran the car and did not check it later. That could explain much better.


"People, this was no tuning session. Cars are expected to be in good working order and are run once to redline and removed."
As posted in link before, 4 weeks ago the car was able to make good solid consistent power back to back on the exact same tune. If you look at the logs the ARF's are perfect, boost is clean and smooth, and to take words from your mouth "Had I heard any det at all, I would have backed out", so in your professional opinion the car rand smooth and clean.


"In fact, we were all concerned when it did slip off the jack and YOU shrugged it off and said the bottom of the car was "worked anyways.""
That is correct. It is a 20 year old car. When we did our visual inspection everything appeard to be fine. It was not until after the show when I was leaving that I noticed something funny, and I pulled my data logs when I got home. My front lower Radiator support now has a slight bend in it, which makes my hood stick up about 1/2 inch.












Garage Tuning on AEM POWER:
The car was not being tuned at all. It was one pull and NONE of the elaborate instructions were ever mentioned. The car barely ran and should not have been there. Had any of us had known the condition of either car, they would not have been allowed on the dyno.

The factory Subaru ecu flashes the check engine light during a missfire. It flashed at 5200 rpm. I got out of the car, noticed the radiator hose was totally ballooned, the coolant tank was almost empty and a new radiator had already been put in. That is a classic Subaru headgasket failure. That car put down stock power levels with a catless turbo back and an intake with increased boost. Fail?

People, this was no tuning session. Cars are expected to be in good working order and are run once to redline and removed. If damage was done while puting the car on or off the dyno, it should be mentioned at the time so that it can be taken care of insted of throwing a tantrum on the net. In fact, we were all concerned when it did slip off the jack and YOU shrugged it off and said the bottom of the car was "worked anyways."









Aempower Thread was closed before I could respond.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Terry Posten

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 16, 2003
Messages
9,009
Location
Davenport, Iowa USA
I think the better idea is to get your car running properly before you tune for high power.

A funky clutch is just asking for issues and if you can't get the car to idle, how can you even set timing to start to tune?

Sounds to me that the car was not ready to be dynoed.
 

Wow is all I can say to that response.

Not more than 1 month ago, I made 678/496 on a dynojet. So when a dyno operator that knows what they are doing and can drive a twin-plate clutch properly the power can be made. Also in my personal experence I have never seen a dyno operator start the car, stuff it into 3rd and start the pull. They always let it get through the startup sequence.

The car idles just fine once it is through its startup sequence. So your statement about making sure that the car runs and idles it crap. Garage Tuning should have known better, and if they had an issue with my car they simply could have said we are not going to dyno it.




"I think the better idea is to get your car running properly before you tune for high power.", well it seems that you are the master at tuning cars without a IAC and FAIV. So I will send you my AEM CAL, and you can dial it in for me master.


"A funky clutch is just asking for issues and if you can't get the car to idle, how can you even set timing to start to tune?" car idles great after start up sequence. I told the dyno guy to hold the car at 5% throttle until the car warmed up and then it would be fine. Dyno guy could not handle driving the twin-plate and was talking sh*t because he kept stalling the car.


"Sounds to me that the car was not ready to be dynoed." and you would know this how? Do you dyno cars for a living? If not leave comments at the door!
 

also in Garage Tunings defense, I should have never let them touch my car. After it fell off the jack, I should have said f*** that pull my car off, you guys have no clue what you are doing.
 

Terry Posten

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 16, 2003
Messages
9,009
Location
Davenport, Iowa USA
Sorry for my response.

I don't care for dynos. Seen too many failures to bring myself to have my car ran on one.
 

Galantvr41062

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 20, 2007
Messages
410
Location
plymouth, MN
The AEM uses the start up ignition number just to get the car running, as soon as it stat syncs and knows where the engine is at it resorts to the main timing table, then it would be +/- from there based on your modifiers. So you could have the car in 3rd gear and fire it up and make a pull, I doubt your car got into boost before the AEM knew what was going on and resorted to the main timing table.

Also you should have some kind of knock control that would work out some detonation that could happen with changing weather or run conditions. I am assuming this was done on dyno packs? In my opinion a load based chassis dyno (dyno dynamics is the best) with the right operator is the safest and only way a high HP car should be tuned.

~John
 

"The AEM uses the start up ignition number just to get the car running, as soon as it stat syncs and knows where the engine is at it resorts to the main timing table, then it would be +/- from there based on your modifiers."

AEM EMS
Engine Start -> Advanced Start -> Ign vs Start Time

That is used to advance the ignition timing during startup. This table goes from 0sec after start to 30sec after start. On my car on E85 to get it to start and idle up better I have those values set so that it tapers from 20* to 0* at 30sec. So it was still in that sequence and that is why the timing was altered.

If you started the car in 3rd gear and just punched it right away you would be in that. I have the log to prove it.




"So you could have the car in 3rd gear and fire it up and make a pull, I doubt your car got into boost before the AEM knew what was going on and resorted to the main timing table." You are WRONG. I have the log and the cal to prove it.




"Also you should have some kind of knock control that would work out some detonation that could happen with changing weather or run conditions."
Car does have Knock Control, however Garage Tuning was not watching the AEM Pro to see what was going on. On the EMS it has knock control based on your input. I have mine set to pull 2* max because I normally drive my car, and I know to let it warm all the way up.



"I am assuming this was done on dyno packs?" Correct


"In my opinion a load based chassis dyno (dyno dynamics is the best) with the right operator is the safest and only way a high HP car should be tuned." I dissagree, you can get an awesome tune on your car using the Street, Dynojet, Mustang, Race Track, ect. If you know what you are doing the dyno/road does not matter.



I know more about AEM EMS than you so lets not start that pissing match.
 

Galantvr41062

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 20, 2007
Messages
410
Location
plymouth, MN
I am sure you do know more about the EMS then I do. Why you need a 30 second decay on your ignition start up is beyond me. Also why would you only allow a 2 deg retard based on knock? unless you plan to have a failed knock sensor all the time knock control should be able to pull a lot more then 2deg, or it will never be able to save the motor. Also with out a load based dyno it is more like ninja tuning unless you really know the setup/car, with the DD you have the live graph of what ever you want to watch, so you can overlay from run to run HP/TQ etc so you know as its happening if you are making more or less power then before.

~John
 
Last edited:

H05TYL

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Joined
Jun 9, 2007
Messages
752
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Wgtn, NZ
If the car needed warming up I don't see why you wouldn't do that yourself before handing it over to them to put on the dyno...
 

toybreaker

iconoclast
Joined
Apr 30, 2006
Messages
3,581
Boz,

What is the purpose of your post?

If you are dissatissfied with the performance of that particular shop, please make a bad guy thread in the appropriate section.

Venting in the general section of the board serves no purpose except to get the membership here riled up.

Thanks!
 

Brianawd

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 18, 2005
Messages
2,117
Location
Portland OR,
This thread is full a gayness /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hsugh.gif
 

boostedinaz

Well-known member
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Apr 20, 2006
Messages
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Location
Scottsdale, AZ
Quoting toybreaker:
Boz,

What is the purpose of your post?

If you are dissatissfied with the performance of that particular shop, please make a bad guy thread in the appropriate section.

Venting in the general section of the board serves no purpose except to get the membership here riled up.

Thanks!



Agreed.

It seems like you just want to stir up some drama and argue.
 

Yep, I want to piss in the butt of Garage Tuning. That is the reason. I could have put this in Bad Guys, but that section does not get much traffic.

I want everyone to know they need to be careful when letting someone dyno/tune your car. Even me with an awesome tune on the car still ran into issues because I let someone who did not know what they were doing touch my car.

If the dyno operator does not ask you any questions about your car, tell them to unstrap it and drive away. They will break your car. I was lucky that my car did not spit pistons and rods all over the ground. I want to make sure that this sort of thing does not happen to anyone else. That is the main reason I am posting.
 

Also just to clarify.

This was a Dyno Competition, so it was 1 pull to see who makes the most power. I tune my own car, and I just rent dyno time or street tune.

I did have the car almost fully warmed up before handing it over.

And yet again, be very very very careful who you let touch your car.
 
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