prove_it
Well-known member
I've done a lot of small stuff for a box of donuts in the past. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
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Front wheel bearing race stuck in Hub
- Thread startertsitalon1
- Start date
tsitalon1
Well-known member
Hell, we never got to the point of discussing payment, I would of paid $75 just to have them press it out, which is all I asked them to do. Idiots they are!
89Mirageman
Well-known member
That just goes back to a few bad apples ruin the whole bunch. There are those people out there that don't mind paying you for your time and don't expect anything for nothing. Then there are those that want you to stop what you're doing, fix their stuff and tell them to have a great day.
OP, didn't mean to sound like I was saying you wanted it done for nothing. I was just saying they may have assumed that by being burnt in the past.
OP, didn't mean to sound like I was saying you wanted it done for nothing. I was just saying they may have assumed that by being burnt in the past.
prove_it
Well-known member
Everyone has been burned. That's why most shops operate how they have to.
tsitalon1
Well-known member
Still need an alignment and need to address some rubbing issues, but overall I'm happy with it.
tektic
Well-known member
Sexy! I'm a fan.
turbohf
Well-known member
damnit, your car looks good. why cant i find someone to sell me some evo9 wheels?!?! thats all im waiting on at the moment for my 5lug swap.
tsitalon1
Well-known member
I appreciate it guys!
The point was to do something with the evo wheels I already had while increasing traction and maintain the gvr4 by replacing the bearings....win win.
Guess I should tint the Windows now?
Evo steering wheel to be installed in ~2 weeks as well.
The point was to do something with the evo wheels I already had while increasing traction and maintain the gvr4 by replacing the bearings....win win.
Guess I should tint the Windows now?
Evo steering wheel to be installed in ~2 weeks as well.
turbohf
Well-known member
sounds like we are on the same page.
tsitalon1
Well-known member
Ok, back to needing a bit of help.
Removed the front pass tire due to a small leak, and found that the new bearing in the hub has play....Not sure how that happened as nothing out of the ordinary occurred during installation...
Any ideas?
Removed the front pass tire due to a small leak, and found that the new bearing in the hub has play....Not sure how that happened as nothing out of the ordinary occurred during installation...
Any ideas?
turbohf
Well-known member
check the torque on axle nut? maybe the hub wasnt completely seated?
GSTwithPSI
Well-known member
With the car in the air and wheel off, torque the axle nut to spec. Afterwards, check for play. At that point, there shouldn't be any. If there is, the races aren't seated properly in the hub, or something is keeping the races from properly sandwitching the bearings.
prove_it
Well-known member
Agreed, also try tightening it 50lbs over torque, loosen it, then apply proper torque. That can help seat the bearings.
tsitalon1
Well-known member
Will do this tomorrow night and report back, thanks for the help.
I did drive the car ~25 miles, hopefully no damage was done.
I did drive the car ~25 miles, hopefully no damage was done.
tsitalon1
Well-known member
So I guess I'm an idiot and didn't torque this down correctly.
Once I torqued down the axle nut, the play has vanished, sorry to waste others time.
Once I torqued down the axle nut, the play has vanished, sorry to waste others time.
turbohf
Well-known member
i have actually had an axle nut come loose and start doing this. so its a question i ask now.
FlyingEagle
Staff member
Quoting prove_it:
Agreed, also try tightening it 50lbs over torque, loosen it, then apply proper torque. That can help seat the bearings.
I think this would go along the lines of also not using an impact to seat the nut, and then either leaving it or backing it off to allow for hand tightening to final torque.
Never a good idea to go above torque for fear of brinnelling due to indents that could be caused by overtightening.
Not saying this will happen, but these dual ring ball bearing style setups, should set just fine at the prescribed torque setting.
I suggest using a punch or long screw driver lodge in the veins of the rotor, contacting the caliper, to allow for a "locked" driveline corner while tightening an axle nut.
Some car manufacturers resort to wonderful ways of seating their bearings (VW), in stages of torque and release, torque and degree/stretch, etc, but that never achieves more than the maximum torque point for the
bearings.
Agreed, also try tightening it 50lbs over torque, loosen it, then apply proper torque. That can help seat the bearings.
I think this would go along the lines of also not using an impact to seat the nut, and then either leaving it or backing it off to allow for hand tightening to final torque.
Never a good idea to go above torque for fear of brinnelling due to indents that could be caused by overtightening.
Not saying this will happen, but these dual ring ball bearing style setups, should set just fine at the prescribed torque setting.
I suggest using a punch or long screw driver lodge in the veins of the rotor, contacting the caliper, to allow for a "locked" driveline corner while tightening an axle nut.
Some car manufacturers resort to wonderful ways of seating their bearings (VW), in stages of torque and release, torque and degree/stretch, etc, but that never achieves more than the maximum torque point for the
bearings.
GSTwithPSI
Well-known member
Quoting turbohf:
i have actually had an axle nut come loose and start doing this. so its a question i ask now.
Did you not have a cotter pin installed?
i have actually had an axle nut come loose and start doing this. so its a question i ask now.
Did you not have a cotter pin installed?
turbohf
Well-known member
oh, it was on an integra. those dont have cotter pins, your suppose to stake the nut. but no, i didnt do that either. always thought it was stupid...then one actually loosened lol. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/idea.gif i try to do it now, and even put the cotter pin in the galant (note, need new ones for 5lug swap).
