Front motor mount modification

[Lucas03ES]

Im about ready to drop my motor in my car, and I hit a bit of a perdicament. The front motor mount bracket hits the compressor housing (downfiring T4) and needs to be cut. Has anyone had to do this? If so, does anyone have any idea of how much metal I will have to remove? Also, I will be installing my new ETS kit as well, and I was wondering where I should position the compressor outlet in relation to where the piping will meet up at it. How is this kit supposed to be run from the turbo to the intercooler as far as which pieces of thepipe go in which spot? Thanks! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[vtecds1]

Got any pics of your bay? Do you have a full, half, scirocco style radiator?

 

[Lucas03ES]

I don't have any pictures of the bay yet, as the motor and the intercooler are not in yet. Id like to get the motor mount bracket cut before I drop it in. I bought a tunersnation civic radiator, but I have a full 1G mishimoto I may try out depending on fitment and cooling with my SPAL. I also want to get the orientation of the compressor housing figured out first, so I dont have to fidget with tightening it while it is installed.

 

[524of1000]

I had to cut mine for my 60-1. From what I understand you can cut an entire side off and it would still work, not that it's recommended. I just notched mine enough for my oil return line. Here's the rough draft...




* I have since fixed it so it doesn't hit the line, and will be running a -10 line to the oil pan...

 

[curtis]

I had to cut mine more than that but you can also just take the oil drain flange off and cut out the threads with a carbide burr then take the -10 fitting and chop off the threads and angle sand it and weld it to the flange about 30 to 40 degrees to the side and about 10 degrees back.... might save you from hacking up the mount. All depends on which turbo, which manifold and wear and tear on the other mounts over the years but I have modified flanges for some locals so they didn't have to cut at the mount on disums.

 

[Lucas03ES]

I was looking more towards modifying the mount towards the drivers side hole where the end of the bolt goes through. My compressor outlet is like right in the middle of the mount itself. Does the ETS downfiring turbo kit have the 90* coupler attached to the turbo, then in to the short straight pipe, into a straight coupler to the 85* pipe into the intercooler?? That seems like it is the only way it should fit together, and where should I orient the compressor outlet?

 

[mr.mitsu]

I've had to do the EXACT same thing with my PT-60-1



Quoting 524of1000:
I had to cut mine for my 60-1. From what I understand you can cut an entire side off and it would still work, not that it's recommended. I just notched mine enough for my oil return line. Here's the rough draft...




* I have since fixed it so it doesn't hit the line, and will be running a -10 line to the oil pan...

 

[talontyme]

I had the same fitment issue with my fp30r and bought the 3 piece avid mount kit its doesnt use the front mount

 

[Lucas03ES]

I wouldn't suggest doing that. When I bought my VR4 there was a 2g 7 bolt in it, where there is no front motor mount. Long story short, my transmission pretty much exploded, the entire output shaft housing was peeled back. I assume it was from not having the front mount putting excess stress on that joint and it couldn't hang.

 

[gramkrakr89]

IMO, removing engine mounting points is unacceptable... and modification is also frowned upon /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hsugh.gif

That being said, mine is also notched to accept my (bullseye?) 60-1 (dsm-style turbine housing), but mine also has a section of 3/16" steel plate welded in around the notch for continuation of support (peace of mind).

sry no pics to show /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[talontyme]

There are plenty of guys that run 3 mounts and besides there was no way to use the front mount with my setup as the comp cover outlet sat were the mount would go

 

[boostin4door]

I had to notch mine w/my Holset HX35 w/Bullseye housing to clear the -an SS oil drain line. No problems at all in 5 years.
I actually cut the notch and 'folded' [hammered] the flap down to clear the oil line.
And had to rotate the Holset just a alittle.
You should be fine 'notching' it...