The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource

Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.

  • Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
    In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.

flywheel removal when engine is out of car

MX4

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 9, 2001
Messages
780
Location
New Zealand
Hi,
Does anyone have any ideas on removing the flywheel when the engine is out of the car? We originally tried locking the crank pulley however the bolt undoes when we try to crack the flywheel bolts.

Any ideas would be appreciated!

Cheers
 

boosted_85

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 2, 2009
Messages
198
Location
milwaukee, wi
you could use a impact gun to shoot them out or use a socket and jamb between the flywheel and the motor.
 
Last edited:

fuel

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 23, 2009
Messages
2,165
Location
Toronto, ON, Canada
I use one of the arms from an engine stand and bolt one end to the flywheel and the other end with the extension to one of the bellhousing bolt holes. You could make up your own tool using a flat bit of steel and press it to shape and drill two holes in it.
 

Telecaster

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 26, 2002
Messages
573
Location
San Jose, CA or Philippines
Quoting fuel:
You could make up your own tool using a flat bit of steel and press it to shape and drill two holes in it.



You can do the same thing with a chain. I did it like this before i got a impact gun. Long bolt through the front bellhousing thread, then another long bolt on the pressure plate thread.
 
Last edited:

fivestardsm

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 8, 2006
Messages
1,699
Location
Middle, Michigan
I use an old belt to hold the dampner pully. It locks it self and you dont have to try to hold both ends of the motor. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

This might help you understand.

 
Last edited:

381gvr4

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 5, 2007
Messages
568
Location
Wakefield, RI/Meriden, CT
Zip tie the cam gears together....
 

misterfixit

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 4, 2004
Messages
1,596
Location
Midlands, UK
Quoting fuel:
I use one of the arms from an engine stand and bolt one end to the flywheel and the other end with the extension to one of the bellhousing bolt holes. You could make up your own tool using a flat bit of steel and press it to shape and drill two holes in it.



This is the method I use. no messing. just cracks the bolts off sweet. also when hanging on the breaker bar, aim the bar across the centreline of the crank for that little extra leverage.

Rich
 

SmoothCustomer

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 6, 2008
Messages
3,319
Location
Lexington, KY
Quoting 381gvr4:
Zip tie the cam gears together....



If you have the timing belt on, somehow keeping the whole system stable should do it, but if the timing belt is off that doesn't really help.
 

bazeng

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 6, 2003
Messages
2,520
Location
Melbourne, Australia
I put a big fat screw driver in one of the transmission bellhousing holes (preferbly the lower front one) then I use a big crow bar or pry bar and sit it under the screw driver with somebody holding that screw driver nice and square (must be a big strong one!!!).

Basically I then use the prybar / crowbar to lock against the flywheel ring gear and undo the bolts without having it spin..

You can lower the engine closer to the ground so that the prybar / crowbar pushes itself against the floor and the screwdriver. Sometimes the engine will lift, so just apply pressure downwards on the motor while undoing the bolt.

Apart from that, a good gun should take it off.

I'd prefer not to hold the harmonic balancer / other end of the crank due to bending/twisting the crank. I personally don't think there is enough torque to bend / twist the crank BUT I guess it is to be safe (engine builders advice from some old school guys).
 
Last edited:

381gvr4

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 5, 2007
Messages
568
Location
Wakefield, RI/Meriden, CT
Quoting SmoothCustomer:
Quoting 381gvr4:
Zip tie the cam gears together....



If you have the timing belt on, somehow keeping the whole system stable should do it, but if the timing belt is off that doesn't really help.


/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/applause.gif
 

turbowop

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 29, 2001
Messages
11,972
Location
Yakima, WA
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif @ zip-tying the cam sprockets together. The timing belt won't hold that kind of torque. Just imagine what happens when you're really putting all your weight into a breaker bar trying to get loose red-loctited flywheel bolts originally torqued down to 100ft/lbs and the belt slips. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/noes.gif Don't try this.
 

mrnvit

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 11, 2003
Messages
111
Location
nz
we just used the method i always use and used a alen key through one of the bell housing holes and wedged against a tooth.
same principle as using a bent bolt.
a few seconds later the bolts were undone.
 

381gvr4

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 5, 2007
Messages
568
Location
Wakefield, RI/Meriden, CT
^Mark, what kind of force do you think dual valve springs would put on the t-belt?? Stock motor for that matter. I can guarantee the belt wont jump if it was properly installed!!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Right from Mitsu....
 
Last edited:

turbowop

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 29, 2001
Messages
11,972
Location
Yakima, WA
Quote:

^Mark, what kind of force do you think dual valve springs would put on the t-belt?? Stock motor for that matter. I can guarantee the belt wont jump if it was properly installed!!!!



Spin a motor using dual valve springs or a stock motor over by hand at the crank, then try to spin one with somebody holding onto a flywheel bolt with 100ft/lbs of torque applied to it and tell me the difference. Huge difference. Trying to remove flywheel bolts while using the timing belt to hold the crank via zip-tied cam sprockets will not work.
 
Last edited:

381gvr4

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 5, 2007
Messages
568
Location
Wakefield, RI/Meriden, CT
Atleast I back my posts up with some helpful facts....

exhibit A



I hate your furry face!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mork.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif Post whore $.02 droppin'! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
Last edited:

turbowop

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 29, 2001
Messages
11,972
Location
Yakima, WA
WTF, that's not a pic of a zip-tie holding the cam sprockets. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif

The pictured way of doing it works though. I like that Mitsu has an actual part number for the "tool" used in that pic.
 
Support Vendors who Support the GVR-4 Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned
Top