This is peter's old car? (if so you scored! it's a damn nice ride /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif )
He was up in no emissions required land, so this is probably the first time that car has been tested in quite some time.
Was this car tested on the dyno?
The im240 test is a loaded test, and simulates a full drive cycle, and it tests for three polutants.
Carbon Monoxide (co)
Hydrocarbons (hc)
Nitrogen oxide (nox)
It's worth noting that taking the egr out of the loop will result in a major increase in nox readings, and the vehicle will probably fail that particulate under cruise conditions.
If you can, please scan or take a good picture of the emissions trace they gave you when you failed and post it up. (the page with all the colored lines).
Knowing the co and nox levels will help determine the nature and cause of the high hc readings.
It will also help show if it's small issue everywhere problem, or a massive issue with one particular area of operation.
If it spikes under load, you;re might want to look for a problem in the ignition secondary. (Plugs and wires) Make sure the ignition coil terminals are clean and corrosion free, and fire in a set of fresh ngk spark plugs, (Heat range and gap adjusted for your particular set-up.)
One of the best places to start working this situation is a logger.
High hc can be caused by a lean running condition. If the low trims show fuel being added, you;re looking for vacuum leaks
Many folks will recomend running a mix of ethanol (e-85), and that will help (especially if you've disabled the egr), but note that there is a visual inspection so the egr valve must be installed on the vehicle, and the vacuum routing must match the emission diagram on the hood. (doesn;t mean that a small ball bearing may or may not have materialised in the feed line to the egr from the thermal valve ... mysteriously ... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif )
I see you're a tech, so you've probably got some pretty damn saavy folks around you at work. Don;t be afraid to ask them for help. The old guys know a thing or two. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
See if you can get one of them help you test your cat. All you need is a digital pyrometer that reads to 1000 degrees, and a lift. Run the ever lovin dogshit out of the car, then drive it right on a lift and shoot the cat inny and outty temps. The outty should be much warmer the inny, if not, the catalyst may be weak.
I've been fighting the battle of getting 4g63's thru emissions for years, so I've got some *small* amount of experience in the matter. If I can help in any way, shoot me a pm with your phone number and I can walk you thru a few other tests and tricks.
As a last resort, I have found a loophole in the testing protocall for awd four wheel steering equiped cars, and know "the guy" at the referree station. We can probably get you exempted from the dyno, and then you will only have to pass a stationary idle/2500rpm test.
With just a few changes/tweeks, we should be able to get you thru that without any major difficulties. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
You are entitled to a free re-test within ten days from your original test, so make it count!
Good luck and please update the thread with what you find.