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Cyclone intake

alik

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Aug 8, 2006
Messages
357
Location
Boston, MA
I have a chance to buy cyclone intake from a buddy of mine. $50 bucks.
Wondering if it's worth it.
 

RedTwo

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Jul 16, 2008
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New Zealand
From memory, and feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, you will need all the solenoids and plumbing along with either a JDM ECU or an ECU chip from Keydiver to activate the runners. You end up with more low down torque and maybe top end?
 

Barnes

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Feb 9, 2003
Messages
6,249
Location
Richland, WA
You need one small vacuum canister, a vented solenoid, and either of the following:

A Keydiver ECU that will control a spare solenoid output (fuel pressure or BCS) OR

An rpm window switch that will actuate the above mention solenoid at ~4100 rpm.

I would think the JDM ECU would be the last option. From everything I have read or heard, if you get one working properly it is an amazing mod. Many people consider it the best mod they have ever done. I currently have one, but I haven't installed my keydiver ECU yet. Just make sure the manifold isn't missing the butterfly actuator.
 
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alik

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Joined
Aug 8, 2006
Messages
357
Location
Boston, MA
Seeing as how most of my time goes into finishing Miata (engine rebuild, turbo, already caged, track safety, $5k in suspension), I doubt I'll ever make the Galant anything more than a beater with a serious powerplant.

Question is,

is the trouble of swapping the intake worth the effort and the time?
 

AWDnoobie

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Jan 13, 2010
Messages
112
Location
Alberta, Canada
I have one on a talon I bought last year, seems to work okay. That being said the car is now in parts, but im not going to get rid of the Cyclone intake just yet. I still want to take a stab at it and make it work for another block. There are a few guys on dsmtuners that run them and seem to like them also. That maybe your best place to find info on it and decide to make it work for you
 

NateCrisman

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Nov 22, 2008
Messages
2,054
Location
Blairstown, NJ
Quoting RedTwo:
From memory, and feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, you will need all the solenoids and plumbing along with either a JDM ECU or an ECU chip from Keydiver to activate the runners. You end up with more low down torque and maybe top end?



From my understanding the Cyclone intake can give a significant low end torque and possible spool up increase, but it still flows less than a stock 1G intake manifold with both runners open; it should give up a smidge of top end power to the stock intake.
 

beaner

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Joined
Jun 22, 2005
Messages
1,562
Location
b'ham, mi
There's so many ways to skin this cat. The main goal is to get the butterflies to switch over at ~4k rpm.

I'm personally a fan of the simplest and most mechanical solutions, so the picture below is what I have done (not my pic though). It's just a t25 actuator, so moves the butterflies when it sees around 10psi. I'm using a mbc on it, so I can delay the opening a little. Only issue with this method is if you don't run a laggy turbo, the mbc/actuator is going to switch over way before ~4k. I plan to eventually replace the mbc with a simple solenoid that will open/close from the rpm signal of a hacked up shift light.



I think it's an awesome mod, so long as it's done correctly.
 

curtis

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May 4, 2003
Messages
11,892
Location
Clarksville TN
do a search under mine or Ken Inn's name a system can be built out of a junkyard for less than 5 bucks.
 

evo8ya

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Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
351
Location
PA/MD
click
here is a link on tuners that seems to be the best method to activate the cyclone. I've been trying to find time to install mine too. It can be controlled with a keydiver chip or DSMLink. It should make between 30-40wtrq and flows 1-2cfm less up top.
Has anyone used this method above?
 
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alik

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Aug 8, 2006
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357
Location
Boston, MA
Did a search.

this turned up.

Doesn't seem like $5 bucks...
 

JNR

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Apr 23, 2004
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9,814
Location
ca
Not sure of your smog requirements there, but be aware that you will eliminate your EGR...That's about the only thing holding me back from putting it on (CA smog and haven't decided if manifold swaps every other year are worth it, lol); I played around with mine (some room for improvement while keeping it 'stock') a little and it is tempting to put on. For $50, and esp if it has good gaskets already, it sounds like a good deal. Don't forget to get the bracketry, also...

btw - make sure you get the Cyclone with the dual runners. IIRC, there was a JDM manifold tha thad 'Cyclone' on it, but was single. Also, want to say mine is an RS version (so 3 types) that has a *slightly* bigger plenum. However, could be wrong though; it's been a few years and I'd have to dig thru my notes.
 
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If the Cyclone intake comes with the vacuum canister, the only thing you need is an old FPR solenoid, and a way to trigger it at ~4100 rpm.
click
As long as the EGR isn't an issue for you, it makes a daily driver much more fun and responsive.
 

alik

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Aug 8, 2006
Messages
357
Location
Boston, MA
Not my pic, but, EGR is supposed to sit where that guy's battery is, right?
DSM0004-smaller.jpg

In that case, mine is long gone.

Seems like it's a good mod. Thanks, guys!
 

raptorWagon

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May 17, 2007
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Location
Oak Harbor, WA
Quoting alik:
Not my pic, but, EGR is supposed to sit where that guy's battery is, right?
In that case, mine is long gone.

Seems like it's a good mod. Thanks, guys!


No that's the Emissions/Charcoal Canister

Your EGR vavle sits on the underside of the Intake manifold. If you still have all the factory vacuum lines hooked up, there is one going to it.

In this pic the owner already removed it, but you need either a block off plate or not remove it and just plug the vacuum port.
70824d1168629231-egr-block-off-plate-install-guide-egr-07.jpg
 
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evo8ya

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Jul 7, 2006
Messages
351
Location
PA/MD
This is where I'm getting confused. Should it be hooked up to EGR or a old FP solenoid? I have everything in the link in my above post. Vac cannister, FP solenoid, BC solenoid and V3 to activate it. Still have to buy the hobbs pressure sensor or maybe a RPM Activated Switch from the other link. I've read and searched but can't find a clear answer on which on to use and where to wire everything in at. Maybe I'm just over thinking it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif


 
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Muskrat

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Jun 13, 2004
Messages
2,107
Location
Lexington, KY
If you're using ECMLink to activate it you don't need a pressure/rpm switch. You can set ECMLink output (for EGR OR Fuel Pressure solenoids) to trigger at a certain rpm.
 

Nabeel

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Joined
Jul 14, 2006
Messages
260
Location
K.S.A
I am using a turbo actuator from turbo supra. It is small and actuate at 10 PSI. Since I did not jump on adyno so I am not sur how proffecinal my job is.
 

evo8ya

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Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
351
Location
PA/MD
Quoting Muskrat:
If you're using ECMLink to activate it you don't need a pressure/rpm switch. You can set ECMLink output (for EGR OR Fuel Pressure solenoids) to trigger at a certain rpm.



Oh ok, got ya. But do you do still need to use the extra FP and BC solenoids? Where would they be wired into? The EGR solenoid or the stock FP solenoid? Just want to make sure I get this installed and wired correctlly.

*edit* Think I got it. Tell me if this is right? Block off/disable EGR, run the correct vac lines to the EGR solenoid and to the canister. Then set link up to activate at like 4100rpm?
 
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The reason I recommend using an FPR solenoid is because you need a 3-port solenoid. Many of the factory solenoids only have 2 ports. It doesn't matter which harness connector you use, but you do need a 3-port solenoid connected to it. But, the EGR harness connector uses a different pin pattern than the others, so I don't usually recommend using it, unless you feel like cutting and splicing wires. My 1991 GVR-4 didn't come with an EGR connector, but my Federal 1992 did, hanging behind the aircan. If you want to use the EGR output of the ECU, but don't have the connector, you will need to add the wire to the ECU harness and run it out under the hood. You will also need to supply +12 volts for the other side of the solenoid, which you can get from any of the other solenoid connectors.
 
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