Critique my setup

[MX4]

So while I am living up in North America, and have access to all the cool parts you have up here, I am wanting to buy up as much as I can before I head back to New Zealand. So below is the list of parts I have on the car already, along with the parts I have already purchased. I just dont want to miss out anything that I should buy now. So I am kindly asking for you fellow members to have a look over my list and see if I am missing anything. I also have a list of things I am not sure whether I need or not.

Basically the car is just for street driving and occasional drag racing. Maybe down the track I might have a go at a track day. I would like to achieve 400hp atw on New Zealands 98 pump gas (which I believe is 93 in the USA/Canada). Any feedback on that?

Thanks for any feedback offered!! Cheers

Engine:
Basic rebuild with rods & pistons
ID1000cc injectors
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
550x230x70mm Intercooler
2.5" alloy intercooler piping
Tial BOV
4" intake pipe with K&N filter
Link G3 Computer (not DSMLink, this is a NZ brand full aftermarket ECU, web page )
FP exhaust manifold
PTE GT3582R turbo with boltup exhaust housing
Recirculated o2 housing with 40mm Tial external wastegate
ARP headstuds
Kelford TX272 camshafts
Innovate wideband

Suspension, Drivetrain, Brakes and Chassis:
Tein coilovers
Front & rear strutbraces
ABS removed
Braided brake lines
Heavy clutch

Things I dont have and am pondering whether I need:
Adjustable FPR
Alternator relocation kit
Fuel filter and "fuel filter to fuel rail" line upgrade
Sparktech COP
Adjustable cam gears
Balance shaft removal

 

[LIV4PSI]

A 255lph pump will overflow the stock FPR. I would get an AFRP. Also, do the balance shaft delete, no reason not to.

 

[ghostinthevr4]

You could probably skip the sparktech COP it's not necessary to make 400 hp. That's if you wanna save a couple hundred bucks, if you do buy the COP you also have to buy a MSD or Dyna Arc or the COP will not perform well.

I dont know if you have access to E-85 or plan to run it in the future but if you do, I recommend bigger injectors.

 

[turbofonz]

Quoting LIV4PSI:
A 255lph pump will overflow the stock FPR. I would get an AFRP. Also, do the balance shaft delete, no reason not to.



Eh... I run without an AFPR and have no issues. In fact my 1g runs 2 255's and the tune is stop on.

 

[MX4]

Quoting LIV4PSI:
A 255lph pump will overflow the stock FPR. I would get an AFRP. Also, do the balance shaft delete, no reason not to.



Good point. My thinking on this point though, is that the tune on the standalone ECU has been done with the standard FPR already overfueling. I could see why it would be important on a car running the factory ECU which is set for factory fuel pressure. But seeing as the car was/and will be tuned with the standalone ECU and the overfuelling FPR it might be an issue. Do you agree?

 

[MX4]

Quoting ghostinthevr4:
You could probably skip the sparktech COP it's not necessary to make 400 hp. That's if you wanna save a couple hundred bucks, if you do buy the COP you also have to buy a MSD or Dyna Arc or the COP will not perform well.

I dont know if you have access to E-85 or plan to run it in the future but if you do, I recommend bigger injectors.



E85 is expensive in NZ so I hadnt really considered running it. It isnt available off the pump either. So I was just going to stick to regular pump fuel.

I thought you didnt need the MSD with a standalone ECU? Or am I misinformed?

 

[MX4]

Quoting LIV4PSI:
A 255lph pump will overflow the stock FPR. I would get an AFRP. Also, do the balance shaft delete, no reason not to.



Thinking about the some more. I could see if, down the track I changed my fuel pump (for whatever reason) it could potentially stuff my tune up if the fuel pressure changed accordingly. Therefore if I had a AFPR I could set the fuel pressure regardless of what fuel pump I am using. I might have to add it to the list!!

 

[LIV4PSI]

Quoting turbofonz:
Quoting LIV4PSI:
A 255lph pump will overflow the stock FPR. I would get an AFRP. Also, do the balance shaft delete, no reason not to.



Eh... I run without an AFPR and have no issues. In fact my 1g runs 2 255's and the tune is stop on.



I don't have an AFPR yet either, I didn't say it would cause issues. I said that it would overflow the stock one at idle, and that makes your car get worse gas mileage.

I don't see why a different ECU would matter.

 

[MX4]

My thinking is, and it could be wrong, is that when the ECU was tuned the tuner would have just "tuned out" the extra fuel on the fuel maps at idle to allow for the extra fuel pressure. What do you think?

 

[rdomeck]

Adjustable FPR-A must...Maybe!
Alternator relocation kit-Not really needed
Fuel filter and "fuel filter to fuel rail" line upgrade-Stock filter, replace old rubber line w/ stock or aftermarket.
Sparktech COP- Not needed
Adjustable cam gears-Not really needed
Balance shaft removal- Keep them. I didn't have the option. Will run smoother with. There are many opinions on this......I think of it this way. Why would Mitsubishi and many other manufacture's spend the extra time and money to put these in there engines if it wasn't needed? But like I said there are many opinions on this and YOU will have to sort through all the information and decided for yourself.

 

[LIV4PSI]

Quoting MX4:
My thinking is, and it could be wrong, is that when the ECU was tuned the tuner would have just "tuned out" the extra fuel on the fuel maps at idle to allow for the extra fuel pressure. What do you think?



The car is under open loop fueling during idle. I don't know how much tuning is available.

 

[turbowop]

I think you mean to say that the car is under closed loop during idle. It uses o2 sensor feedback to make fuel corrections. Either way, overrun can be tuned around. I'd still like to have an AFPR to be able to make adjustments. It's not absolutely necessary, but it's a nice tool to have.

And I'm one of those that approves of balance shaft removal. Just because Mitsu put them there, doesn't mean they are appropriate for a modified, high power street car. They become a liability at high RPM because they spin at twice the speed of the crankshaft. So many motors lost due to balance shaft bearing failures.

 

[Wizardawd]

Along the lines that Mark brought up, the BS elimination kit is from a 1.6L Mitsu motor. So even Mitsu took it out of a motor.

I do agree that the BS elimination is the way to go. I've dealt with too many BS belt failures which then make the main timing belt skip, shafts getting wobbly in their bores or seizing up, etc. But, I think instead of the stub shaft, use the cut-down rear shaft.

Wiz

 

[MX4]

Quoting rdomeck:
Adjustable FPR-A must...Maybe!
Alternator relocation kit-Not really needed
Fuel filter and "fuel filter to fuel rail" line upgrade-Stock filter, replace old rubber line w/ stock or aftermarket.
Sparktech COP- Not needed
Adjustable cam gears-Not really needed
Balance shaft removal- Keep them. I didn't have the option. Will run smoother with. There are many opinions on this......I think of it this way. Why would Mitsubishi and many other manufacture's spend the extra time and money to put these in there engines if it wasn't needed? But like I said there are many opinions on this and YOU will have to sort through all the information and decided for yourself.



The reason I was tossing up whether to do the balance shaft or not is the cost of getting it done. Its not a job I would be comfortable doing myself.

As far as the fuel filter goes, are you saying just replace the fuel filter with a factory one? And to upgrade the line from the fuel filter to the rail with an aftermarket one.

 

[MX4]

Quoting turbowop:
I think you mean to say that the car is under closed loop during idle. It uses o2 sensor feedback to make fuel corrections. Either way, overrun can be tuned around. I'd still like to have an AFPR to be able to make adjustments. It's not absolutely necessary, but it's a nice tool to have.



With the ECU I am using it doesnt use a o2 sensor in its current state. Down the road I plan to get one and install it for fuel economys sake. But regardless the ECU happily does the job without one for now. So I dont know if the car has an "open loop/closed loop" state like the factory ECU does.

 

[LIV4PSI]

Quoting turbowop:
I think you mean to say that the car is under closed loop during idle. It uses o2 sensor feedback to make fuel corrections. Either way, overrun can be tuned around. I'd still like to have an AFPR to be able to make adjustments. It's not absolutely necessary, but it's a nice tool to have.




Yes sir, you are correct. I typed the wrong one. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

 

[OldHairyBastard]

Add the FPR and 1000cc's are a lot bigger then needed for 400whp. 750cc should be plenty unless youplan to go bigger in the future but it might be to hard to tune with 1000cc's.

 

[MX4]

Its actually already tuned on the ID1000s. Its a little rich at idle but good overall. Made 287hp atw on the 16G with factory downpipe. I stuffed up because I should have changed that over before getting it tuned.

 

[NZ VR4 RS]

You still aint going to beat me. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif

 

[brisvr4]

^^ I'm still waiting for you to catch me Nick /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rofl.gif