The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource

Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.

  • Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
    In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.

Finally Getting to Work

chucklesas

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 14, 2003
Messages
1,895
Location
Dayton, OH
I think I've ordered just about the last of the parts I need. Got all the melty parts under the hood replaced. I still need a new PC925 battery (I forgot to pull that set-up out of my other Galant when I sold it) and figure out what I want to do for vacuum lines. Anyway, I just wanted to run my list of parts by you guys and see if I forgot something major. I don't know what I'm going to be doing about my exhaust (I'd like to keep the exhaust tone quiet and not drone-y, so I'll leave my 2.5" with 18" and 24" resonators with dual tip muffler installed for a little while, but understand it's a restriction).


Engine:
100 mm Mitsubishi 4G64 Crank
Eagle Rods
Wiseco 8.8:1 CR Pistons
ARP Main Studs
ARP Rod Bolts
ARP Head Studs
Mitsubishi Metal Headgasket
Ferrea Beehive Valve Springs
Topline Revised Hydraulic Lifters
FP3 Intake Camshaft
FP3 Exhaust Camshaft
Fidanza Cam Gears
Gates Kevlar Timing Belt
ACT Chromoly Flywheel
ACT 2600 Clutch with Steet Disk

Intake:
K&N Filter
Mitsubishi #482 3G MAS
ExtremePSI 3" Intake Pipe
Extreme Front Mount Intercooler
JMF Street Intake Manifold

Exhaust:
DNP Tubular Exhaust Manifold
Slowboy Racing GT-14 Turbo Charger
04AN Turbo Oil Feed
10AN Turbo Oil Return
Punishment Racing Recirculating O2 Housing
Tial 38mm Waste Gate
Megan Racing 3" Down Pipe

Fuel:
255 LPH Walbro Fuel Pump (Rewired)
06AN Fuel Feed
Fuel Labs 818 Inline Fuel Filter
Fuel Injector Clinic Fuel Rail
FIC 1000CC injectors
Aeromotive AFPR
06AN Fuel Return

Accessories:
CXRacing Honda Civic 2-Row Aluminum Radiator
JMF Radiator Overflow Bottle
JMF Large Oil Catch Can
Jay Racing Alternator Relocation Kit
Alterstart 135 Amp Alternator
Boostx Coil On Plug Ignition
Custom GVR4 ECU
Zietronix Wideband O2
 

Woody

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 9, 2009
Messages
88
Location
Plainfield, NJ
Force performance does not make fp3 cams anymore and you gonna need something better to tune the car.
 

chucklesas

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 14, 2003
Messages
1,895
Location
Dayton, OH
They might not, but Extreme PSI still has some in stock. All these parts have been ordered or are already hiding somewhere in the house. The only things that were missing were the valve springs and cams... I guess I'll see tomorrow if they ship or not.

I can customize my ECU chips, but I'm guessing you're saying that's not going to be enough control for me?
 

Hertz

Staff member
Joined
Jul 29, 2002
Messages
13,501
Location
Chicago, IL
If you can log the wideband and customize your ECU, I think you're fine there. The 3" downpipe to 2.5 exhaust should be fine. Resonators are not *that* much of a restriction.

You might want to get that DNP manifold reinforced.
 

belize1334

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 18, 2003
Messages
3,316
Location
Bozeman, MT
I'm no engine builder but I would think that a Kiggly girdle would be in order for a stroked motor.
 

chucklesas

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 14, 2003
Messages
1,895
Location
Dayton, OH
Kiggly Girdle seems like a good idea, and for $95 shipped should be cheap insurance.
 

chucklesas

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 14, 2003
Messages
1,895
Location
Dayton, OH
Some progress pics:

Stripped the bay to get rid of some rust and repaint:


Black paint... just for the bay though:



Stole the subframe out of my parts car. It's slightly less rusted and not cracked:


I got the subframe in and decided to start working on my engine. Next post...
 

chucklesas

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 14, 2003
Messages
1,895
Location
Dayton, OH

Jay Racing timing belt install tools are really helpful.




The list above pretty much covers what's installed on the engine, except that I added a Fluidampr pulley. I did not install my Kiggly girdle since it supposedly requires some slight massaging/machining of the block and I also did not go through the process of degreeing my cams as I had planned to.

Anyway, I hope to start back on the shell this week. and hopefully have the engine actually in the car within 2 weeks.
 

slugsgomoo

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 16, 2003
Messages
3,776
Location
Tacoma, WA
what pulleys are those? stock diameters?

also, did you make your own drain or pick it up somewhere?
 

chucklesas

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 14, 2003
Messages
1,895
Location
Dayton, OH
They are Unorthodox Racing waterpump and alternator pulleys, stock diameter. I got the turbo drain from Slowboy Racing, however you could get away with about 6 inches of -10AN stainless line and a 45 degree -10AN fitting and a straight fitting from Summit racing for much cheaper. I thought if I bought it as a kit it would come assembled... it was not.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

chucklesas

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 14, 2003
Messages
1,895
Location
Dayton, OH
YAY! I got the engine and transmission in. Tomorrow I will have to sort out the wiring. This is turning out more customized than I had realized it would. I have a feeling the ETS intercooler piping are going to need some major rework done on both the lower and upper pipes.
Oh, and i hadn't realized how ugly that transmission looked. I'll have to do something about the paint on it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif


 
Last edited by a moderator:

chucklesas

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 14, 2003
Messages
1,895
Location
Dayton, OH
I'm getting closer. Hopefully I can turn the key to hear it run tomorrow evening or maybe sometime Monday. I'm getting excited! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hsugh.gif

Came up with some goofy way to mount the radiator:



A mount for the battery:


Redid some wiring. The wiring that normally goes to the head now crosses over the rear engine mount and along the back of the block:


Where I am today. A few minor things like mounting the resistor pack, transistor, catch can and PS pump before I can start the car.


 

chucklesas

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 14, 2003
Messages
1,895
Location
Dayton, OH
I've got a progression picture *fail* occuring in this thread.

Yanked turbo to replace waterpipe, which I'll need to replace again or at least pull out to fix a leak at the O-ring.


Pulled the Intercooler, I'm so parnoid someone is going to steal it off my car sitting in the driveway.


I wanted to replace my control arms with the ones that used to be on this car since they had the Noltec bushings and the attached knuckles had known good wheel bearings, but one of the bolts in the control arm had seized to the bushing. I figured if I pulled the transmission I could get enough room to hammer it out.


It wouldn't budge, so I hacked away at the control arm with the angle grinder to give me room to get in there and cut out the bolt/bushing.


Now I'm to the point where I'm trying to get the control arms out of the other subframe. Unfortunately I'm dealing with the same problem with the bolt being seized to the bushing. My friend is letting me borrow his air compressor, so I'm going to pick up a air hammer/chisel and try to knock it out that way. Otherwise I'm going to have to order new parts and hold off on doing anything else until those get here.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

thecman02

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 3, 2007
Messages
917
Location
Kalamazoo,MI
I have the exact same problem. I'm trying to replace control arms and can't get the damn front bolt out for anything. I'm thinking about taking a torch to it? Have you gotten yours out yet?
 

chucklesas

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 14, 2003
Messages
1,895
Location
Dayton, OH
I was afraid to torch mine as the rubber will catch fire and melt, and well... fire and this car don't have a very good history together. I'll let you know if either an impact wrench or an air chisel does anything for me.
 

Rausch

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 21, 2004
Messages
12,049
Location
Cleveland, OH
I have a set of good useable front control arms- Shoot me a PM if you need them. And good luck man. Wish you could make it out for MOD.

Edit: If you're not pressed for time anymore- The hose down with PB, soak, hit with the air chisel, repeat... works well, but it may take a good number of rounds to free everything up.
 
Last edited:

chucklesas

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 14, 2003
Messages
1,895
Location
Dayton, OH
I still might be able to make it to the event, the car just won't have any bodywork done to it like I had planned to do.
 

chucklesas

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 14, 2003
Messages
1,895
Location
Dayton, OH
Oh well, I gave up on trying to get the control arm out of the other car. I just went ahead and ordered a pair of new ones from Rock Auto. I guess they'll get here Monday or Tuesday. Too hot to work on the car today, but hopefully I'll get the transmission back in, the fuel line hooked up to the tank and maybe do some interior work over the next few days. Once the parts get here it should only take a couple hours to get the suspension back together and the car on the ground. We'll see how things go.
 

chucklesas

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 14, 2003
Messages
1,895
Location
Dayton, OH
It's been raining the past few days, so I haven't had much chance to do stuff to the car. I got trans back in, fabbed a mount for my catch can, and burned a new ECU chip (8000rpm limit, 5000rpm stutter, 6000rpm NLTS, 1000cc inj comp, IPW Cap removal, extended maps, 3G mas, fuel cut elimation). I also test mounted a JDM bumper I have around. Looks like I'm going to have to fab up some mounts for that too if I want to use it :-( I'm not looking forward to that. My control arms should be here in the next couple days so I should hopefully have the car off jackstands by the middle of the week.

Battery tray and catch can mount all-in-one:

Think the tape will hold together?

 

chucklesas

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 14, 2003
Messages
1,895
Location
Dayton, OH
It... Ran? Well, I finally got most of the car together now. I might have to tweak some injector settings though :-( I can't get the car to idle at all.

In the video I have attached I forgot I had one of the vaccuum ports in the manifold open. I went to the store and got a 1/4" npt plug and filled the hole, but now I can't get the car to idle at all (I guess it's not getting enough air at idle?)

I'm also having trouble setting base timing since I have a COP setup. I might have to swap in a coil pack and wires to get things going.

So close, and yet, so far :-| I'm really shooting to get this thing to Illinois this coming weekend.




Galant VR4 resurrection

Edit: Yeah, the car sounds pretty bad. I have an exhaust leak where the downpipe mates up with the rest of the exhaust. Apparently it's not liking that transition from 3" down to 2.5" with a 3" gasket. Maybe a 2.5" gasket will help me out.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Support Vendors who Support the GVR-4 Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned
Top