Coil Packs and Dwell Time

[TrevorS]

Kind of disappointed by the complete lack of response /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif! To be honest, it's not clear whether it's better to go dual OE transistor module or hot wiring from the battery to the COP primary. (An Intrepid tech with professed plenty of time behind a scope said that 8 Amps should be enough, but this won't be known for sure 'til it's evaluated). I'm not much inclined to fool around further with it, but it would be nice if someone else would take a look and post their findings. Up to you guys at this point /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif! Any helpful input?

 

[ozyvr4]

This is a great thread. So much info. I am interested in this as I have just started a upgrade on my car.

I am fitting an AMS VSR intake manifold and have decided to go COP to keep the engine looking neat.

I was worried about the ignition system and hopefully this will be the solution.

I have built a plate to mount my igniter , injector resistor, map sensor and boost guage sensor. I played with it today and it will also fit my spare igniter.

I am going to wire second igniter in as I am also rewiring the engine harness. I have all the parts I need just sitting in the shed.

Thanks to the guys testing this for real answers .

 

[TrevorS]

Please let us know what you actually implement and how it works out. I think this thread and its readers are best served by the accumulation of trials and results. I've no problem with you achieving better results than I, just let us know -- thanks /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif!

 

[ozyvr4]

Here is a pic of the plate that i made to mount everything on.

 

[cupajoe]

Bringing this back up! So what's th verdict? Did this work for you?

 

[prove_it]

Bring out your dead!

 

[ozyvr4]

Anyone gone further with this??? I will have my car going again early next year.

 

[Street Surgeon]

Quoting broxma:
The interesting aspect of my build is that it will be running on the exact same Evo 8 AEM EMS that my Galant was running on. Incidentally, the ignition system on the KA, although it normally uses an old style distributor, the was made by non other than Mitsubishi. If you remove the cap, rotor and inner cover, you find an optical cam angle sensor. It happens to be the exact same cam angle sensor as a 1st gen green top CAS. You can simply replace the optical wheel with either a 24 tooth or stock 1G CAS wheel, and any Evo 8 designed ECU will work just like factory, provided you do some wiring. This means the same ignition principles we worked on here, will transfer over directly to the Nissan.



English Racing was using ECMlink v2.5 to control one of their customers turbo KA 240SX projects back in' 05 or so, pretty cool that the parts cross over like that!

 

[TrevorS]

Hi guys,

Was hoping some further progress might have been made on honing dual ignitor 4G63 ignition. My Eclipse has been on stands for approaching a year and a half with the intent of upgrading the cat-back exhaust and trying to install a higher flow larger than OE SMIC. Unfortunately, personal issues have impeded progress. My further thought on the dual ignitor scene is that my higher battery current solution translates into higher delivered spark energy relative to OE. Presuming that's the case, how much additional current draw (translates into energy) is really needed to make a worthwhile improvement over OE? Is my +12V wiring to the dual ignitors and COP to some degree overkill?

Would really like to see someone (or several) evaluate this further and draw whatever rational conclusions they can for the case of OE Vs dual ignitor COP. Just how much is needed to make dual ignitor work well starting from an OE car? (Not sure it's a true upgrade if it's necessary to also upgrade the alternator.)

 

[belize1334]

My opinion - the dual igniter is an upgrade that should only be affected if you're finding that your COP setup is breaking up. Start with the standard COP package and a single igniter. I recommend the wiring scheme that I previously outlined in this thread, but the standard method seems to work fine too. Then, if you have ignition issues consider moving to dual igniters... As for current draw, I haven't made those kinds of measurements so I can't comment on that.

 

[prove_it]

You will need to wire a higher gauge power wire, fuse, and relay in. Also the ground will need to be beefed up.

 

[bradrs]

This is an interesting thread.

It appears as though the 90 ignitor didn't have a current limit? Did you test the 91+ the same way. Years ago, I did, and the 6-7A current limit did seem to exist in the newer ignitor. What happens is that the transistor comes out of saturation, causing the voltage to climb inside the ignitor. This would get the ignitor hot and
kill it quickly if it were run like this for too long.


Are you adjusting dwell to match these other coils? I noticed that the 2G DSM ECU I was testing seemed to drop dwell off pretty quickly as RPM climbed, so you'd never really hit that 6A limit. With a quicker charging coil, you'd be most likely to hit it at idle.

FWIW, also the ignitor plugs are readily available now, new. Either the 90 or 91+ style.

 

[prove_it]

I was going to send you a link to this thread, seeing how this is right up your alley. As far as I know, no one has mentioned a current limit or anything you mentioned. I did get one set of twin ignitiors set up and it ran good. Never had an issue, nor did I really run it much.

 

[bradrs]

Based on my bench measurements of the 2G ignitor, I wouldn't expect it to help a lot.

My concern, and I saw someone else post this early in the thread, is that it would be hard to get the ignitors matched so perfectly that one wouldn't release slightly before the other, and possibly lose a little bit of energy on firing.