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Clutch problem diagnosis?

holeshotmoe

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 7, 2005
Messages
1,291
Location
MD
Replaced my clutch two years ago due to leaking rear main seal. I replaced the seal and installed a centerforce dual friction setup. About 4 months ago it started slipping. Been driving it but taking it easy, mostly. Finally got around to pulling the trans today. The rear seal looks to be dry but won't know for sure till I pull the flywheel. The black powder is the material from the clutch and it is all over everything. But it is dry. Notice the material between the pads on the pressure plate side. Anyone have any suggestions as to why it would have begun to slip? Looks like there is still plenty of friction material left.
...first light

...powder everywhere, and dry

...this is the flywheel side...looks pretty normal to me

...PP side...look at all the powder packed in the space between the pads

...closeup...probably this side was doing the slipping

...PP

...flywheel looking like it took some serious heat...shot??

...engine side of flywheel is dry
 
Last edited:

rdomeck

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 1, 2011
Messages
620
Location
Indianapolis, In.
Interesting...I am having the opposite problem with my center force. Won't disengage. I would start with measuring the step on the flywheel. Maybe measure the thickness of the disc. Do some searching on here!
 

G

Staff member
Joined
Feb 24, 2004
Messages
8,896
Location
zompton

Armitage

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 16, 2003
Messages
715
Location
Herndon, VA
Off the top of my head, the only thing I can think of is that your clutch pedal rod could be adjusted too far out (in some cars/master cyls this isn't even possible), you can plug up the bleeder valve in the master cyl with the plunger so the slave can't fully bleed down. This could cause your clutch to always be partially disengaged resulting in premature wear. Easy to test, just push the slave rod in with your finger and see if it goes in or not. If not, you've got problems.
 
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