The Top Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Resource
Join the best E39A 1991-1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 community and document your GVR4 journey.
- Software Upgraded - Reset Your Password to Login
In order to log in after the forum software change, you need to reset your password. If you don't have access to the email address you used to register your GVR4.org account, you won't be able to reset your password. In that case, follow the instructions here to regain access to the forum.
Clutch issues
- Thread starterBoos929
- Start date
conradical
Well-known member
It sounds like you may need to bleed the clutch lines.
AWDPower
Well-known member
With a lightened flywheel, the opposite is true. Less mass means the revs will drop quicker when you push in the clutch.
conradical
Well-known member
It sounds like the clutch is still engaged when you push it in to release it. I would just bleed the system. Im not 100% on that, but it will help the pedal play and it may solve both problems.
Ok will try to bleed the clutch system see if that helps when I bought the car the clutch felt like it was slipping a little after 5k but the kid I bought it from said the clutch has been like that sense he out it in an it's only got a few thousand on it. I just don't want to buy a new one if that's not the issue
Lightened flywheels make the revs raise when shifting.
does the clutch slip? you can't take someones word for when it was replaced. Take an hour to pull the trans and inspect it yourself then spend money if needed.
does the clutch slip? you can't take someones word for when it was replaced. Take an hour to pull the trans and inspect it yourself then spend money if needed.
DR1665
Well-known member
Easy test for slipping clutch:
Pull into parking lot and stop. Shift into 3rd gear, slip the clutch quickly, but gently. If it doesn't stall, clutch is slipping.
Otherwise, another vote for bleeding the clutch.
Pull into parking lot and stop. Shift into 3rd gear, slip the clutch quickly, but gently. If it doesn't stall, clutch is slipping.
Otherwise, another vote for bleeding the clutch.
5OF2k
Well-known member
Quoting See4Ways:
Lightened flywheels make the revs raise when shifting.
does the clutch slip? you can't take someones word for when it was replaced. Take an hour to pull the trans and inspect it yourself then spend money if needed.
incorrect.
A heavier flywheel (I.E. stock) keeps the engine rotating due to the extra rotating mass. It also has a lot to do with low end driveability. For instance, take our stock flywheels at half-a-million lbs and throw on a lightweight aluminum unit. You'll notice not only are your revs WAY quicker, and likewise on decel. On top of that, you'll more than likely notice you also have to give it a bit more revs to get it going smoothly from a stop, ESPECIALLY if you arent running the puny stock turbo that spools stupid low in the rpm range. Thats largely due to the decrease in mass(which as i said earlier helps keep the enging rotating, in effect). Lightweight flywheels are designed with quicker revs in mind, so the engine doesnt have to work as hard throughout the RPM range, hence the increase in performance.
A perfect example is an F1 car, which has very, very little/next to no flywheel. Hence, why they rev so rediculously fast to redline, then back to idle.
Hope that helps.
As far as the OP, I'd definitely recommend both bleeding AND adjusting/checking your trow on your clutch pedal. There is a very detailed writeup on VFAQ regarding the procedure, complete with pics and step-by-step info. Start there first, and if it doesnt work at that point, then start thinking about tearing into the car to diag a malfunctioning clutch assy.
-Jake
Lightened flywheels make the revs raise when shifting.
does the clutch slip? you can't take someones word for when it was replaced. Take an hour to pull the trans and inspect it yourself then spend money if needed.
incorrect.
A heavier flywheel (I.E. stock) keeps the engine rotating due to the extra rotating mass. It also has a lot to do with low end driveability. For instance, take our stock flywheels at half-a-million lbs and throw on a lightweight aluminum unit. You'll notice not only are your revs WAY quicker, and likewise on decel. On top of that, you'll more than likely notice you also have to give it a bit more revs to get it going smoothly from a stop, ESPECIALLY if you arent running the puny stock turbo that spools stupid low in the rpm range. Thats largely due to the decrease in mass(which as i said earlier helps keep the enging rotating, in effect). Lightweight flywheels are designed with quicker revs in mind, so the engine doesnt have to work as hard throughout the RPM range, hence the increase in performance.
A perfect example is an F1 car, which has very, very little/next to no flywheel. Hence, why they rev so rediculously fast to redline, then back to idle.
Hope that helps.
As far as the OP, I'd definitely recommend both bleeding AND adjusting/checking your trow on your clutch pedal. There is a very detailed writeup on VFAQ regarding the procedure, complete with pics and step-by-step info. Start there first, and if it doesnt work at that point, then start thinking about tearing into the car to diag a malfunctioning clutch assy.
-Jake
nsin
Well-known member
Ihave that clutchplay also. Good info
