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Cleaning up the wiring harness

GSTwithPSI

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I don't know if the $8 dollar set of connectors I linked to are made in China or not. I'd venture to say regardless of where you're shopping, 99% or the sh*t available is probably made in China to varying degrees of quality and fitment. In the absence of any technical data, you'd probably need to do some side-by-side comparisons to OEM stuff, or do some real world testing to really determine the degree of quality for each individual item. If you have examples of quality plugs, post a link or something when you have time.

I have a set of repurposed OEM junkyard plugs I got from Chris, and they get the job done just fine IMO. I paid ~$10 bucks for the set, and only replaced them because I got tired of the junk ass little metal clips on the 1G version of the stock plug. If not wanting to spend $15 bucks on a plastic connector makes me a DSM'r, so be it. I'd rather wipe my ass with money and flush it down the toilet than spend it any of the ways G suggests.

HYPERTUNE bitches!!!!
 

G

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You buy cheap you buy twice. Except when buying the used OEM units. Because Japan.
 

89Mirageman

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Actually those plugs come on a lot of dodge and ford stuff too and are the same quality /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

bradrs

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Quoting G:
The ones I found in japan are definitely Mitsu OEM spec'd. I have seen a lot of connectors from different japanese platforms and the ones I'm selling are very very high quality. Night and day difference compared to the $8.00 set. For the typical dsm'r the $8.00 a set type are fine.



What you have appears to be one of the aftermarket ones. Not that it's bad in this case. Look at where the wires exit on the original connector, and where they exit on yours. The original connector has a wire retainer that is red and flush with the back of the connector. Yours is white and sticks out a little bit.

I am pretty sure it is the exact same connector I was looking at a while back, and I will probably buy it in pieces to help make harnesses at some point. If it was the OEM connector from our cars, it would have the manufacturers logo on it. That other company seems like they do a decent job though.

Quoting GSTwithPSI:
I don't know if the $8 dollar set of connectors I linked to are made in China or not. I'd venture to say regardless of where you're shopping, 99% or the sh*t available is probably made in China to varying degrees of quality and fitment. In the absence of any technical data, you'd probably need to do some side-by-side comparisons to OEM stuff, or do some real world testing to really determine the degree of quality for each individual item. If you have examples of quality plugs, post a link or something when you have time.



It is likely made in China, and likely NOT made to OEM standards. As you said, both good and bad connectors come out of Asia. Most of it boils down to the specifications of the connector. OEMs make strict specs. Low end aftermarket just makes it so it should latch together. They don't check design tolerances so all of their connectors will plug into all of the mating connectors on the OE parts, etc. There are some high end aftermarket ones that do pay a bit more attention to details, and they cost a good bit more. I know at least SOME of them are made on the same molds etc as the OEM connectors(at the OEMs factories).

Anything that is $2 per pigtail, shipped, is almost certainly not the OEM parts. Is it possible that it's good? Maybe. But they even picked a bad connector to copy. Those gang seals on the wires will leak pretty quickly if the wire gets pulled on at all. That gang seal is the same reason I hate Deutsch DTM connectors that are popular with lots of aftermarket people.

As far as a good one, it all depends on what connector you are looking for. Bosch, Amp, TE, Molex, Delphi, Yazaki, Sumitomo, JAE, Mitsubishi, Furukawa, all make generally good stuff.


Quoting GSTwithPSI:
I have a set of repurposed OEM junkyard plugs I got from Chris, and they get the job done just fine IMO. I paid ~$10 bucks for the set, and only replaced them because I got tired of the junk ass little metal clips on the 1G version of the stock plug. If not wanting to spend $15 bucks on a plastic connector makes me a DSM'r, so be it. I'd rather wipe my ass with money and flush it down the toilet than spend it any of the ways G suggests.

HYPERTUNE bitches!!!!



They will probably last a while yet. OEM stuff is usually pretty good. Is that heatshrink you used at the injector connector really flexible? I hope so. I usually leave a bit of wire exposed there, so there is more room for the wire to freely bend in a large loop. If that heatshrink ISN'T very flexible, when you pull the connectors off, all the wire bending occurs right at that little spot of exposed wire. And the wire will break. Make sense?
 

tektic

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Dec 19, 2012
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ronkonkoma, ny
Quoting GSTwithPSI:
The wires are in good shape. The black sh*t on the wires is residue from the old tape. No, I didn't bother detailing the harness before I put it back together.

If I was going to replace the injector plugs, I'd probably pick up something like this: click



BIN'ed me a set Nice looking thanks for the link!
edit: Hmmm... May retract, and get a set from Chris.
 
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GSTwithPSI

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Quoting bradrs:
Is that heatshrink you used at the injector connector really flexible? I hope so. I usually leave a bit of wire exposed there, so there is more room for the wire to freely bend in a large loop. If that heatshrink ISN'T very flexible, when you pull the connectors off, all the wire bending occurs right at that little spot of exposed wire. And the wire will break. Make sense?



The stuff closest to the connector is an adhesive lined dual wall heat shrink tubing. It's a bit different than the DR-25. Coupled with the adhesive lining, it has a high shrink ratio which makes it good for getting up close connector and staying in place. It's very flexible as well; much more so than the DR-25.
 

bradrs

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Interesting. I use 3M dual wall adhesive lined heat shrink all the time, I'd consider it much stiffer than wire. And the high shrink ratio means the wall is thicker(stiffer) when recovered. Maybe your brand is a bit more flexible?

Either that, or maybe it is just that I am comparing it to newer wires like GXL while are pretty flexible? It should be pretty obvious if you try to bend it, whether the wire bends first or the heat shrink covered area does.

Definitely try to support the harness with some sort of mounting point, as close to the connectors as you can. And if you wanted to strengthen that area, you could try to put a piece of heat shrink that wraps around the back end of the connector, and down to the harness. Even wrapping in electrical tape from the harness onto the connector would add a little strength there.

Also, the injector connectors that G sells might be a little better than the OEM in one respect. That long white retainer would probably be easy to put some heatshrink on, if you wanted to heatshrink cover all the way up on the connector. I'd still prefer to just leave more wire uncovered near the connector, as I think it is a little simpler.

 
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GSTwithPSI

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Got some more work done on the harness. Some of the sheathing was looking crappy, so I removed the old, and replaced it with new.
WP_002004.jpg

WP_002005.jpg

WP_002008.jpg


Some of the connectors were looking rough too. Replaced those as well.
WP_002006.jpg


It's about 50% complete at this point. I need to order some larger diameter DR-25 for some of my other connectors. I'm also waiting on some more new connectors to come in the mail for the CAS ans TPS.
WP_002009.jpg

WP_002010.jpg
 

prove_it

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Where did you get the new connectors?
 

GSTwithPSI

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The connector in the picture was sourced from a mint harness that I cannibalize connectors from as I need them. I'm in the process of sourcing some connectors for the CAS and TPS, since I don't have either.
 

iceman69510

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have you checked Brad's site? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 

GSTwithPSI

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It's about 90% finished at this point. I still need to source a CAS connector, so one of you bitches needs to pony up. I still need to source some of the mega sized split loom as well, as the lower part of the harness will be covered with new tape and split loom.

I gotta say, after 2 or 3 connectors, depinning them is pretty easy. You just gotta get the feel for it. Once you do, the wires pop right out easy peasy.

Anyways, here are the crappy ass cell phone pics, since that's all you mouth breathers care about anyways...

WP_002042.jpg

WP_002044.jpg

WP_002045.jpg

WP_002046.jpg

WP_002047.jpg

WP_002050.jpg

WP_002041.jpg
 
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prove_it

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Looking good, what sizes of Ry-chem did you end up needing?

For everyone, tip on connectors: If your pulling wires out, it helps to have the connectors warm, not hot, but warm. This allows the retainers to flex and not break.
 

bradrs

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Quoting GSTwithPSI:
It's about 90% finished at this point. I still need to source a CAS connector, so one of you bitches needs to pony up.



I think I may have a used one somewhere. Does it have to be in perfect shape?
 

GSTwithPSI

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Not going for perfection here. If it's in good shape, usable and not broken in any way, that will work just fine. Also prefer if the wires entering the connector are in decent shape too.
 

bradrs

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Quoting bradrs:
Quoting GSTwithPSI:
It's about 90% finished at this point. I still need to source a CAS connector, so one of you bitches needs to pony up.



I think I may have a used one somewhere. Does it have to be in perfect shape?



I thought I save one or two of the used ones, but I think I tossed all of them away, sorry.

Any luck finding a used one?

Since you are just going to cover it with Raychem, have you considered asking the guy who makes the new pigtails if he'd sell you one minus the sleeving?
 

prove_it

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No CAS yet? Huh, I'm sure I got one, but it won't be perfect. I might run out to the local pull and save today, pending weather, so I'll see if I can get you one.
 

bradrs

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Have you figured out what to do for supporting the harness? zip ties? Or are you going to have some other brackets to hold it all in place?

Too bad it isn't all out of the car, I'd be curious to see how much it weighed before/after.
 

GSTwithPSI

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I'll be attaching it to the car using a variety of methods. I have some plastic harness brackets that bolt on in various places. I'll also utilize some snap in harness ties (thanks Pot!), and regular zip ties where needed. I'll try to post some more pics after it's all routed.

As far as the weight goes, I'd say the harness isn't too much heavier since I removed multiple layers of old crusty tape. No doubt, the Raychem weighs more overall though. If I had to guess, I'd say maybe a pound or two difference, if that.


 
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